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Primerdimer

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Everything posted by Primerdimer

  1. Ok, so now that I am getting back to this, I’ve already gone and drilled 1/8” holes in the t-stat... 4 of them! Dang it. Now I’m reading this and it seems that’s not the right move. I think I’m just going to hunt down an L20 housing and go that route. I’m sure I could drill and tap a hole in the side of mine if I can’t find one, too. The only problem I should be experiencing from all these holes now is a slow warm up, right? My coolant gauge on my cluster doesn’t seem to work very great. The farthest I’ve seen it come up was maybe a 1/4 - 3/8” and its intermittent. Most the time it’s all the way left. Another thing I need to address... anyone have a way to test the temp sender?
  2. That’s great, thanks a lot! Gonna pull it out and drill some holes!
  3. No I wasn’t having issues. I’m not sure what a jiggle valve is but if it’s like a little tiny piece of loose copper, than yea, pretty sure. What’s that for to let some go by?
  4. So this is just normal? Should I let it warm up longer?
  5. I have a 521 with a stock L16. So I just flushed my radiator and engine and put a new thermostat in. The thermostat I pulled out was a 160 degree and I put a 180 in as this is what my manual said it calls for. After putting it in, I was noticing there was no flow looking down into the radiator, even after letting it heat up for like 10 min. So I pulled the thermostat out and tried again without it. This time it was flowing, so in my head, that meant the thermostat was the culprit. So I went to buy a new one, this time a better quality one (I hope at least, it was 11 bucks). Put it in, same thing. Am I just not letting it warm up long enough? Will there be zero flow up until the point that it opens? Is this thermostat maybe too high in temp and my engine isn’t making it there? Sorry I don’t fully understand how the cooling system operates just yet. Seems like I’ll know by the end of this tho haha... thanks
  6. Ahhhh I’m a dumbass... I was reading the feeler gauges wrong. Was reading in my book and it said to gap them at .20mm and .24mm... I was using the gauge by the inch measurement. Thanks guys!
  7. I primed the pump by putting oil in the two holes and spinning the distributor shaft before installing... hope that was right. Anyone have a way to check oil pressure? I think I’m gonna just remove the filter and start it real quick... when I checked all my valves (cold), they were tight. I adjusted them, so I’m wondering i them wrong? I adjusted all the intakes for .020, and exhausts to .024 while cold and before this, I didn’t really have much valve noise so it seemed odd that they were all off spec
  8. Ok, so i put everything back together and was going to flush out the coolant but after starting, I’m getting some loud valve train noise. Kind of sounds like it’s not getting oil pressure, but I’m not sure how to tell without a gauge.... I’m not even sure if that’s the sound I’m hearing since I adjusted valves too. I also put on a new oil pump. I’ll try to make a link with a video so you can hear it.
  9. Thanks! Yea I’ll try that with the exhaust. Just checked all my valves and all the gaps were super tight. I did the last valve adjustment while hot, this was cold. Maybe it had something to do with it? Hopefully not piston slap, definitely sounds like it was in the front top part of the valve cover. Is there something the fuel pump might be doing to make this noise? I’m using rotella t4 15w-40
  10. Primerdimer

    Advice needed

    I’ve got a 521 with a stock L16. For the last month or so I’ve been having this clacking noise coming from the front of the engine (especially when the engine is cold on a cold day) which led me to believe that I probably needed swap out the timing chain, tensioner and guides... So here I am today, have the pan all dropped, valve cover off, and cant really see any signs that anything should be changed. The chain seems tight (I guess? Not sure how to check it actually), guides don’t seem worn, and the notch seems lined up just to the right of the cam... The advice I’m looking for is advice on what to do from here? If it is not stretched and in good condition, is it worth taking the cover off and water pump when they have non-leaky seals as of now? Or should I just swap it all out since I’m here already? And what are some things to look for to tell me whether this chain is good/bad? Thanks a lot!
  11. Thanks, the pointer is on the passenger side for mine, any info on that?
  12. Primerdimer

    L16 timing...

    working on my truck, 71 521 with an L16 and Weber down draft... So far, I’ve changed my points, and checked/set the gap on them. Put in new ngk B6ES plugs gapped to .032 along with ngk wires. New cap and rotor. Didnt touch the coil or condenser yet (but will). Adjusted valve lash. Compression was good, with highest cylinder at 215 and lowest at 200. truck is running great but idle is a little high. I’m focusing on ignition timing and carb now. My problem is that I’m getting different info from different sources. One thing I’m reading (Clymer) says “the grooves(on the crank pulley) are graduated in 5 degree increments. The TDC mark is to the EXTREME-LEFT of the engine as viewed from the front” and “specs for timing requires timing at 10 degrees BTDC, which would be the 4th mark from the left” ??—4 marks in 5 degree increments, isn’t that 20 degrees BTDC?? ALSO, in the L-series engine manual from Nissan, it says that TDC is located to the EXTREME RIGHT... so now I don’t know which side is which... Is TDC to the extreme right or left if looking down from the front of the truck? And which notch is 10 BDTC? Can someone shed some light for me here? Thanks a lot!
  13. Ok, so I’ve changed my points, and checked/set the gap on them. Put in new ngk B6ES plugs gapped to .032 along with ngk wires. New cap and rotor. Didnt touch the coil or condenser yet (but will) and the problem was fixed, runs great. So I moved on to adjusting the valve clearances and they all needed adjusting. Runs even better afterwards, with less clatter noise. I’m focusing on ignition timing and carb now. My problem is that I’m getting different info from different sources. One thing I’m reading (Clymer) says “the grooves(on the crank pulley) are graduated I’m 5 degree increments. The TDC mark is to the EXTREME-LEFT of the engine as viewed from the front” and “specs for timing requires timing at 10 degrees BTDC, which would be the 4th mark from the left” ??—4 marks in 5 degree increments, isn’t that 20 degrees BTDC?? ALSO, in the L-series engine manual from Nissan, it says that TDC is located to the extreme right... so now I don’t know which side is which... Can someone shed some light for me here? Thanks a lot!
  14. Thanks so much, just what I was looking for! 🙏
  15. So I see everyone saying to make sure the correct coil is used, especially on stock setups, but I can’t find anywhere that shows what specs I need. I have a 72 521 with a dual points distributor (I know, I really want the EI dizzy). I’m having a hesitation issue happening and trying to narrow things down starting with the spark plugs, cap, rotor and now the coil. Trying to make sure everything is working correctly before moving onto valve lashing, timing, and carb... anyways, just wanted to know how much resistance I should be looking for my particular setup. Thanks a lot
  16. Do you know if this is a stock bench or out of something else?
  17. Windshield gaskets with chrome trim, anyone know where to get one? I’m assuming these are complete unobtainium.
  18. Ahhh, drag... well good thing I didn’t buy them yet, I kinda had the guy dig them up tho, so it would definitely help if you bought them haha either way tho, no biggie, I appreciate your help.
  19. Ok wayno, I got a hook on the lower mounts and am about to have them shipped along with new shocks (once I figure which ones I need). My concern is this that your truck has the upper mounts in different locations than mine. Will this setup work with stock upper mounts being located so far inward?
  20. Cool, got the sender ordered, will be here tomorrow, thanks guys! Got another question now... when I was changing my clutch space cylinder, I noticed these wires hanging down near my tranny mount. They were coming from the passenger side and seemed to be heading over the tranny... anyone know what they could be for? also, if my side marker lights have the wires torn from them, is there a way to reconnect or do I just need new side markers now? Thanks again!
  21. This sounds like a much better way to go than blocks, I’m gonna have to look into your setup, thanks for sharing...
  22. Ok, so the guys at the parts store can’t tell what threads they have on theirs, is there a way to tell besides just threading it in and being careful if it starts feeling like it’s not lining up? Maybe some knows a part number that for sure works and is in stock usually? I’ll do some more research if I get time...
  23. Man, been going thru little fixes nearly every other time I go for a spin! Lol nothing too bad. Clutch slave cylinder went out, had to change that; thanks to wayno for posting the best way to set the adjustment screw, really made it easy! Also, back when I had a 510, I really liked the wink mirror that I had, so i put one in. Since I can’t see out of my side mirror, the wink really makes me feel more aware of other cars while driving... I kinda offset the mirror too, to favor the driver side and help me see in my left hand blind spot better... Oh yea, I also covered the mess on the bench with a serape blanket... gotta do all those cheap mods for now, don’t have a ton of time or money to throw at this right now, but damn I’m having a good time cruising thru my lil beach town! next up is getting rid of this oil leak. I’ve narrowed it down pretty much (Im praying) to the oil pressure sensor. Do these usually leak from the unit itself or the threads into the block? Like do I just need to remove this and seal the threads better and put back or do I need to get a whole new sensor? I remember reading somewhere on here too about some years using BPT instead of NPT...
  24. Cool, thanks for the help guys, nobody had that in stock anyways so I ordered the part and will be here Tuesday... guess I’ll be biking to work for a couple days lol
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