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Primerdimer

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About Primerdimer

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    Long Beach, CA

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  1. Ok, so now that I am getting back to this, I’ve already gone and drilled 1/8” holes in the t-stat... 4 of them! Dang it. Now I’m reading this and it seems that’s not the right move. I think I’m just going to hunt down an L20 housing and go that route. I’m sure I could drill and tap a hole in the side of mine if I can’t find one, too. The only problem I should be experiencing from all these holes now is a slow warm up, right? My coolant gauge on my cluster doesn’t seem to work very great. The farthest I’ve seen it come up was maybe a 1/4 - 3/8” and its intermittent. Most the time it’s all the way left. Another thing I need to address... anyone have a way to test the temp sender?
  2. That’s great, thanks a lot! Gonna pull it out and drill some holes!
  3. No I wasn’t having issues. I’m not sure what a jiggle valve is but if it’s like a little tiny piece of loose copper, than yea, pretty sure. What’s that for to let some go by?
  4. So this is just normal? Should I let it warm up longer?
  5. I have a 521 with a stock L16. So I just flushed my radiator and engine and put a new thermostat in. The thermostat I pulled out was a 160 degree and I put a 180 in as this is what my manual said it calls for. After putting it in, I was noticing there was no flow looking down into the radiator, even after letting it heat up for like 10 min. So I pulled the thermostat out and tried again without it. This time it was flowing, so in my head, that meant the thermostat was the culprit. So I went to buy a new one, this time a better quality one (I hope at least, it was 11 bucks). Put it in, same thing. Am I just not letting it warm up long enough? Will there be zero flow up until the point that it opens? Is this thermostat maybe too high in temp and my engine isn’t making it there? Sorry I don’t fully understand how the cooling system operates just yet. Seems like I’ll know by the end of this tho haha... thanks
  6. Ahhhh I’m a dumbass... I was reading the feeler gauges wrong. Was reading in my book and it said to gap them at .20mm and .24mm... I was using the gauge by the inch measurement. Thanks guys!
  7. I primed the pump by putting oil in the two holes and spinning the distributor shaft before installing... hope that was right. Anyone have a way to check oil pressure? I think I’m gonna just remove the filter and start it real quick... when I checked all my valves (cold), they were tight. I adjusted them, so I’m wondering i them wrong? I adjusted all the intakes for .020, and exhausts to .024 while cold and before this, I didn’t really have much valve noise so it seemed odd that they were all off spec
  8. Ok, so i put everything back together and was going to flush out the coolant but after starting, I’m getting some loud valve train noise. Kind of sounds like it’s not getting oil pressure, but I’m not sure how to tell without a gauge.... I’m not even sure if that’s the sound I’m hearing since I adjusted valves too. I also put on a new oil pump. I’ll try to make a link with a video so you can hear it.
  9. Thanks! Yea I’ll try that with the exhaust. Just checked all my valves and all the gaps were super tight. I did the last valve adjustment while hot, this was cold. Maybe it had something to do with it? Hopefully not piston slap, definitely sounds like it was in the front top part of the valve cover. Is there something the fuel pump might be doing to make this noise? I’m using rotella t4 15w-40
  10. Primerdimer

    Advice needed

    I’ve got a 521 with a stock L16. For the last month or so I’ve been having this clacking noise coming from the front of the engine (especially when the engine is cold on a cold day) which led me to believe that I probably needed swap out the timing chain, tensioner and guides... So here I am today, have the pan all dropped, valve cover off, and cant really see any signs that anything should be changed. The chain seems tight (I guess? Not sure how to check it actually), guides don’t seem worn, and the notch seems lined up just to the right of the cam... The advice I’m looking for is advice on what to do from here? If it is not stretched and in good condition, is it worth taking the cover off and water pump when they have non-leaky seals as of now? Or should I just swap it all out since I’m here already? And what are some things to look for to tell me whether this chain is good/bad? Thanks a lot!
  11. Thanks, the pointer is on the passenger side for mine, any info on that?
  12. Primerdimer

    L16 timing...

    working on my truck, 71 521 with an L16 and Weber down draft... So far, I’ve changed my points, and checked/set the gap on them. Put in new ngk B6ES plugs gapped to .032 along with ngk wires. New cap and rotor. Didnt touch the coil or condenser yet (but will). Adjusted valve lash. Compression was good, with highest cylinder at 215 and lowest at 200. truck is running great but idle is a little high. I’m focusing on ignition timing and carb now. My problem is that I’m getting different info from different sources. One thing I’m reading (Clymer) says “the grooves(on the crank pulley) are graduated in 5 degree increments. The TDC mark is to the EXTREME-LEFT of the engine as viewed from the front” and “specs for timing requires timing at 10 degrees BTDC, which would be the 4th mark from the left” ??—4 marks in 5 degree increments, isn’t that 20 degrees BTDC?? ALSO, in the L-series engine manual from Nissan, it says that TDC is located to the EXTREME RIGHT... so now I don’t know which side is which... Is TDC to the extreme right or left if looking down from the front of the truck? And which notch is 10 BDTC? Can someone shed some light for me here? Thanks a lot!
  13. Ok, so I’ve changed my points, and checked/set the gap on them. Put in new ngk B6ES plugs gapped to .032 along with ngk wires. New cap and rotor. Didnt touch the coil or condenser yet (but will) and the problem was fixed, runs great. So I moved on to adjusting the valve clearances and they all needed adjusting. Runs even better afterwards, with less clatter noise. I’m focusing on ignition timing and carb now. My problem is that I’m getting different info from different sources. One thing I’m reading (Clymer) says “the grooves(on the crank pulley) are graduated I’m 5 degree increments. The TDC mark is to the EXTREME-LEFT of the engine as viewed from the front” and “specs for timing requires timing at 10 degrees BTDC, which would be the 4th mark from the left” ??—4 marks in 5 degree increments, isn’t that 20 degrees BTDC?? ALSO, in the L-series engine manual from Nissan, it says that TDC is located to the extreme right... so now I don’t know which side is which... Can someone shed some light for me here? Thanks a lot!
  14. Thanks so much, just what I was looking for! 🙏
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