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  • Gender
  • Location
    Killeen, Texas
  • Cars
    1974 Datsun 620, 2007 Ford F-150, Kawasaki ZX-10R
  • Interests
    Wrenching, sailing, car audio

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  1. Anybody know exactly where the oil pressure sensor/sender unit is? Brand new motor is in and everything’s ready I just want to hook up a gauge and make sure it has oil pressure before I start it with fuel. I saw something about a oil pressure valve in the manual but it doesn’t seem like what I’m looking for and on top of that I couldn’t find it. Thanks in advance.
  2. Yeah I messed up the oil passage on one of the rods earlier luckily I noticed it before I left the machine shop😂. This rebuild is stressing me out but I appreciate the help!
  3. Quick question does anyone know if these “Press Fit” style piston wrist pins have a specific orientation based on the piston itself? There’s a marking on one side and two of the four pistons are a bit harder to spin on the connecting rod. I was just curious if anyone’s run into this problem and if it could actually cause a seized piston-connecting rod connection. Thanks in advance.
  4. Soooo I’ve got an extremely long question. I’m planning on pulling my motor next month and buying a rebuild kit so I can learn how to do it. I’ve been looking at a rebuild kit from CleggEngine.com and the price seems pretty decent. But I assume I would need a rear main seal because I’m pulling the motor correct? And I know the heads need valve work so I’m just gonna give the heads and block to a machine shop to do a small bore and hone (maybe for 280zx pistons) and valve job. What all would the machine shop need to do to the block? I know the heads need some work and valve seats, but I’m just trying to get a price estimate for all of this so I can make sure it’s within my budget. The main points I need answered are what does the machine shop need to do? Does the engine rebuild kit come with everything I would need? And extremely general estimate for machine shop charge(if possible). Do I need any special tools besides a timing kit? I’M NOT GOING FOR PERFORMANCE, it’s just a “budget” and learning rebuild to get a new motor on the inside. I don’t know anything about working on the inside of an engine so if anybody has any input I’d appreciate it. Edit: Also planning on getting a Weber 32/36 to replace the stock Hitachi because this thing is garbage.
  5. I’ve been tuning it trying to get it right but I’m curious what that top silver screw with a nut on it does? I know you mentioned it earlier and I’d love to learn anything I can about this carb.
  6. I adjusted it a good bit and haven’t been able to replicate the runaway idle but I’ll be back if it continues. I REALLY appreciate the help!
  7. I removed both to clean and regasket but I have no idea how to adjust it so I assume it didn’t change but I’d like to see how I can adjust it.
  8. I thought that’s what it could be but the cable is loose as it was before and it doesn’t do it when it’s cold.
  9. I’ve got a 1974 Datsun 620 L18 with a recently rebuilt stock Hitachi DCH340 and haven’t had major problems before this. So this afternoon I pulled my carburetor and did I complete cleaning, I know it’s not the correct way but I reused all the old gaskets because the rebuild was lest than 3 months ago and I rarely drove it for the first two months. I pulled all the jets and such and cleaned the outside as best I could. When I put the carb back on and started it I didn’t notice any major problems besides mixture which didn’t surprise me. But after it got warm and I adjusted the mixture it was idling fine but when I gave it throttle it would jump to at least 1500 rpms from what the motor sounds like. But it doesn’t return to the normal idle unless I put it in gear and basically manually drop it to normal idle speed (sounds like 800ish). I’m gonna try and pull the carb again tomorrow and see if anything is clogging the jets or something like that but I have absolutely no idea what could cause this. Any help would be appreciated.
  10. Time Left: 4 days and 6 hours

    • WANTED
    • USED

    My rear right tail light is cracked on my ‘74 620 and need to get a new one shipped to Texas for inspection. Also looking for the horn for it, nothings hooked up so I need everything that comes with the horn. Also door lock cylinders and ignition cylinder with keys. Looking to get it as soon as possible hopefully. If anybody has one or knows somebody please let me know. Thanks.


    Killeen , Texas - US

  11. My rear right tail light is cracked on my ‘74 620 and need to get a new one shipped to Texas for inspection. Also looking for the horn for it, nothings hooked up so I need everything that comes with the horn. Looking to get it this month hopefully. If anybody has one or knows somebody please let me know.
  12. I agree I just didn’t know if the plugs would be the same or not on those years. Hopefully it ain’t too much wiring work lol.
  13. So I picked up this truck a while ago and the guy I bought it from had a jumper wire to start the windshield wipers because he didn’t have the switch. I’m unable to find the correct wiper switch for the ‘74 model and was wondering if any of the other model years would work “plug n play” style. Or even which wires I could put the jumper back into, because the jumper wire got ripped out and I forgot which plugs it went into.
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