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adam83

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About adam83

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  • Location
    Tacoma
  • Cars
    1984 Nissan 720
  • Interests
    Cars. Girls.

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  1. Agreed. thanks for your help man. Everything is back together now and runs great. Will retorque head bolts after a few days of driving .
  2. Used long pliers and grabbed most wood splinters. knocked the rest down into the oil pan.
  3. Frustrating. Well I'll try the pliers from the top first, and go with timing cover removal if I have to. May as well do full timing chain/guides/tensioner/crank seal/water pump at same time. Pisses me off big time cause I had planned on doing all this when the motor was rebuilt, now I'll have to do all this labor twice. Should've just tried blue devil for a temp fix to begin with
  4. It's in many pieces, most fell down to where the chain meets the crank sprocket. I'm gonna borrow some specialty pliers that are long and thin but not sure if I'll have enough angle coming in through top of head. If I cant get them with pliers it looks like taking the pan off would be less work than the timing cover... do you think I'd be able to reach crank sprocket area with pan off? If not I guess I'd have to remove cover..
  5. No go. Wood broke apart and splintered down towards the crank sprocket . Might be able to extract splinters with long needle nose pliers but doubt it. Can I access the crank sprocket area by taking oil pan off? I think if I get all the wood out I'll be fine. Or does the timing cover have to come off?
  6. Is there a hole in timing cover to stick screwdriver through? The only access I see is through the top of head
  7. Well I put the head on first, couldn't risk getting debris on gasket or gashing it trying to align the head while finagling with the intake and exhaust in a cramped space. Got the head on nice and neat, torqued in sequence and to spec 20-40-60. Got sprocket and chain back on in correct spot. PROBLEM... I HAMMERED IN MY WOODEN TIMING WEDGE A LITTLE TO FAR, ITS BEING A REAL BASTARD AND WONT BUDGE. I have a thick cord attached to it, but even with 2x4s and a large pry bar I cant get it out. Any ideas?
  8. Thank you, I'll do it on engine. Yep I got the chain wedged good and my cam sprocket and timing chain thoroughly marked. Evrything is at #1 tdc. Even pulled up a little vertical slack (above the wedge) on the chain before removing sprocket to make install easier. I've spent hours cleaning and resurfacing all gasket surfaces on whole head, both manifolds and collector. Do you think it'd be easier to install just head first then manifolds? Or just assemble them all together then install? Also, is a little black rtv on the intake gasket recommended?
  9. I've resurfaced my head and cleaned it up. Ready to reinstall. I had to loosen a couple rockers to get all valves recessed in cylinders, so I'll need to reset the lash and may as well do whole head. What are the valve lash specs for my head?
  10. Got head off. Also got a thick piece of glass to resurface head. Gonna try and post a pic <a href='http://i.imgur.com/AxiZEBA' title=''><img src='http://i.imgur.com/AxiZEBA.jpg' alt='' title='Hosted by imgur.com' /></a>
  11. How did you modify the pin? Did the bushings that came in the kit work?
  12. Btw neat idea for resurfacing head! I'll try it if that's all the head needs
  13. I feel the same about just replacing the hg while I'm in here, but since there's blowby I planned on rebuilding the engine later and doing a complete head rebuild at the same time, so I'd like to avoid taking the head off now, then again in a few months at rebuild time. BUT, if it's gotta be done it's gotta he done, I need the truck now. Checking torque on the head bolts now. If I do hg now, I'm gonna buy the head gasket kit, it comes with new intake and exhaust gaskets, plus valve stem seals, so i would end up taking the intake off. I've read alot about the wedge to keep the timing tensioner in place. I have searched and there are 2 wedge sizes, a short one and a longer one, one works for L series one works for Z, but I've read conflicting statements as to which one is correct for each. I know the dimensions for both, and it looks like the longer wedge is for the Z engine due to the tensioner being lower down the block but not I'm sure. So a few questions: 1. Which is the correct wedge size for the 1984 Z series 2.4L? The longer or shorter wedge? 2. If I goofed it up and had to take the front of the engine apart to get to tensioner, does the oil pan need to come off? I looked at it, dont see any aparant reason why it would, but read somewhere that it does have to come off when doing timing chain. 3. Side note but relevant, Is there a free photo hosting website? I'd like to post pics.. I use to use photobucket but they charge money now so I cant use it anymore.
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