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agouge888

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About agouge888

  • Rank
    Newbie

Profile Information

  • Location
    Johnson City, TN
  • Cars
    74 Datsun 620, 71 Bronco
  • Interests
    Wake boarding, waterskiing, surf, Early Ford Bronco

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  1. Thanks for the reply.....my valve looks the same but I can’t find the pin. Any idea how long this pin is supposed to be? I’ve heard of making one from a metal coat hanger, but I’m not sure the length??? Any idea how long? Thanks much, Andy
  2. Went to change the tranny modulator valve and wanted to check a couple things.... 1) There was about 1 cup of fluid behind the valve when I pulled it...should it be there? 2) Should there be some sort of pin/small center rod that sits in the center of the valve? I didn’t see one on the old one and wanted to be sure it wasn’t lost/gone. thanks agouge888
  3. DanielC I’m 99% sure the motor is the original stock 1974 L-18, I purchased the truck with only 67k miles on it and spoke with the original owner. It doesn’t appear to have ever been opened up. Truck still has stock paint and stripes that the old fella ordered. It just sat for a while. I did go up in sizes on the primary and secondary jets. I can tell some better acceleration difference with larger jets, especially on the primary side. Still not what I’d expect, but at least I can pull out in traffic and not get run over i checked compression and got 150 to 155 on all 4.🙂 Andy agouge888 agouge888
  4. I have made genuine Weber as noted in the video. Box has Redline on it, carb is stamped a Weber in several places and the body is stamped...Made in Spain. Andy
  5. Thanks Mike, wheres the the best place to get a filter and gasket kit. Thanks, Andy
  6. Stock 74 auto tranny. Sat for years and wanted to change fluid. Book says Dexron, but what are u guys using these days? Hopefully it’s something I can pick up at the local parts house. Thanks, Blue71
  7. Thanks for the info. Is Dexron III acceptable these days? Or even Dexron IV? Can’t seem to find just Dexron. thanks, Andy
  8. Stock 74 auto tranny. Sat for years and wanted to change fluid. Book says Dexron, but what are u guys using these days? Hopefully it’s something I can pick up at the local parts house. Thanks, Blue71
  9. Got the new Weber installed and it seems to work great, with one exception...it’s a little sluggish on takeoff. I know these 620’s aren’t powerhouses, but this thing is pretty sluggish. I can stomp the gas and I’m 0-60 in about 45 seconds. Mid range seems pretty good, but off the line it’s just sluggish. It has all new gapped plugs. New points are gapped at (19). Weird because when it’s idling and I blip the throttle...It rev’s great...very responsive, clean, and crisp. Any ideas? Thanks, Andy
  10. Not sure if my title says it correctly, but after the Weber Carb install...I feel and it was suggested that I need to turn my distributor clockwise to get a little more out of it. Well...it was turned as far as it will go clockwise. Even if I remove the small bolt...it won’t rotate any further. Does this mean I need to pull the dizzy and clock it back some? If so...any tips on pulling it? Does the distributor on a 620 also run the oil pump? (Like a Ford dizzy?) thanks, Andy
  11. Mike thanks for all the help. I spent 14 hrs looking for my problem and threw in the towel. The Auto Electric place locally tracked it down to some sort of burnt wire on the pigtail behind the glovebox. They ran a dedicated wire and fixed it. Also got my alt charging ( bad regulator) and loose terminal on my alternator. Thanks for all of the input and help. Sorry for my confusing ramble trying to describe my wiring. Hey..my wipers even sped up now:) Andy
  12. Driving the 74 620 on a test run yesterday and after about 15 miles it started starving for fuel. It would only idle a bit and when I’d press the gas it would die. I’d let it sit for 5 min, restart it and it would rev up, but I’d only make it a few hundred feet then it would spit and sputter then die. I can hear a boiling sound coming from the carb. It’s like the fuel is boiling down in there. After letting it sit for 30 mins to cool off I restarted it and it ran a lot better so I could get home. Timing seems to be spot on and I’ve never changed it from where it was with the stock carb. I let it sit a couple hours...fired it up and it ran like normal. It’s full of gas so I know I’m not crazy. I’ve had this happen on a Ford 2bbl and had to put a 1/4” spacer to isolate the heat so it could get to the carb. Anyone else have this issue? thanks, Andy
  13. When the switch is all the way pulled out... there is no power at the headlights or headlight pigtails. thanks, Andy
  14. Thanks for the reply. I unwrapped part of the factory wire bundle just after it comes thru the passenger side firewall. I have a tool to penetrate the wire so I can hook to it without hurting it. so From the battery....I put power to the large red wire and the lights came on.....the brights and everything work as they shouldlike normal. I checked for ground on the large black wire in the same bundled area. I have ground on the black wire. I also found out that I am getting ground on the same large red wire that had power on. What’s the deal? We tried to trace the wires with a meter that “chases shorts”and it seemed to get some odd readings just as the bundle separates and heads to the alternator. Is there any way the alternator could be causing my problem? Probably sounds crazy. My charging light on the dash lights up quite a bit and the battery when running charges at 11.89. Didn’t know if the alternator can short somehow and in turn...cause the ground issue and headlights not to work. Let me know your thoughts. thanks, Andy
  15. Thanks so much for the check list...that’s perfect. I checked and I have power at the fuse box on the light circuit. I pulled the headlight switch in and out many times to clean the terminal. With the switch pulled out/on, I ran my test light. While connected to the pigtail, I checked the 4 soldered terminals on top of headlight switch block where the 4 wires connect on top and checked them with a test light. While the switch is out halfway (park lights) I had 3 terminals light up, and with the switch pulled out (headlights) I had all 4 terminals light up which I’m guessing is correct and working. With headlight switch pulled....I ran a jumper wire from the positive side of the battery to the back of the actual headlight terminal and all 4 headlights lite up. What am missing in between? Thanks for for helping me figure this thing out, Andy agouge888
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