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agouge888

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About agouge888

  • Rank
    Newbie

Profile Information

  • Location
    Johnson City, TN
  • Cars
    74 Datsun 620, 71 Bronco
  • Interests
    Wake boarding, waterskiing, surf, Early Ford Bronco

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  1. Got the new Weber installed and it seems to work great, with one exception...it’s a little sluggish on takeoff. I know these 620’s aren’t powerhouses, but this thing is pretty sluggish. I can stomp the gas and I’m 0-60 in about 45 seconds. Mid range seems pretty good, but off the line it’s just sluggish. It has all new gapped plugs. New points are gapped at (19). Weird because when it’s idling and I blip the throttle...It rev’s great...very responsive, clean, and crisp. Any ideas? Thanks, Andy
  2. Not sure if my title says it correctly, but after the Weber Carb install...I feel and it was suggested that I need to turn my distributor clockwise to get a little more out of it. Well...it was turned as far as it will go clockwise. Even if I remove the small bolt...it won’t rotate any further. Does this mean I need to pull the dizzy and clock it back some? If so...any tips on pulling it? Does the distributor on a 620 also run the oil pump? (Like a Ford dizzy?) thanks, Andy
  3. Mike thanks for all the help. I spent 14 hrs looking for my problem and threw in the towel. The Auto Electric place locally tracked it down to some sort of burnt wire on the pigtail behind the glovebox. They ran a dedicated wire and fixed it. Also got my alt charging ( bad regulator) and loose terminal on my alternator. Thanks for all of the input and help. Sorry for my confusing ramble trying to describe my wiring. Hey..my wipers even sped up now:) Andy
  4. Driving the 74 620 on a test run yesterday and after about 15 miles it started starving for fuel. It would only idle a bit and when I’d press the gas it would die. I’d let it sit for 5 min, restart it and it would rev up, but I’d only make it a few hundred feet then it would spit and sputter then die. I can hear a boiling sound coming from the carb. It’s like the fuel is boiling down in there. After letting it sit for 30 mins to cool off I restarted it and it ran a lot better so I could get home. Timing seems to be spot on and I’ve never changed it from where it was with the stock carb. I let it sit a couple hours...fired it up and it ran like normal. It’s full of gas so I know I’m not crazy. I’ve had this happen on a Ford 2bbl and had to put a 1/4” spacer to isolate the heat so it could get to the carb. Anyone else have this issue? thanks, Andy
  5. When the switch is all the way pulled out... there is no power at the headlights or headlight pigtails. thanks, Andy
  6. Thanks for the reply. I unwrapped part of the factory wire bundle just after it comes thru the passenger side firewall. I have a tool to penetrate the wire so I can hook to it without hurting it. so From the battery....I put power to the large red wire and the lights came on.....the brights and everything work as they shouldlike normal. I checked for ground on the large black wire in the same bundled area. I have ground on the black wire. I also found out that I am getting ground on the same large red wire that had power on. What’s the deal? We tried to trace the wires with a meter that “chases shorts”and it seemed to get some odd readings just as the bundle separates and heads to the alternator. Is there any way the alternator could be causing my problem? Probably sounds crazy. My charging light on the dash lights up quite a bit and the battery when running charges at 11.89. Didn’t know if the alternator can short somehow and in turn...cause the ground issue and headlights not to work. Let me know your thoughts. thanks, Andy
  7. Thanks so much for the check list...that’s perfect. I checked and I have power at the fuse box on the light circuit. I pulled the headlight switch in and out many times to clean the terminal. With the switch pulled out/on, I ran my test light. While connected to the pigtail, I checked the 4 soldered terminals on top of headlight switch block where the 4 wires connect on top and checked them with a test light. While the switch is out halfway (park lights) I had 3 terminals light up, and with the switch pulled out (headlights) I had all 4 terminals light up which I’m guessing is correct and working. With headlight switch pulled....I ran a jumper wire from the positive side of the battery to the back of the actual headlight terminal and all 4 headlights lite up. What am missing in between? Thanks for for helping me figure this thing out, Andy agouge888
  8. My headlights were working when I got my ‘74 620 a few months ago. For some reason... ....front, rear and side are still working, but I have no power to my headlights on bright or dim. I tested the terminals and getting no voltage at the pigtails. Is there a “next step” to check so I’m not chasing my tail? Thanks, Andy
  9. On my 74 620....I am changing the fuel pump. It feels kind of hard to get the arm back in a good position so that the bolts will line up. The spacer and gaskets are in place ias well. My question is....is there a way to install the pump and the arm be on the wrong side of the cam lobe or in the wrong place? Just didn’t want that to happen. I know I usually have to push or pull the pump and make it spring one way or the other to line the bolts up, but still wondered if it could be installed incorrectly or on the wrong side to where the arm coil ever brake? Thanks, Andy
  10. I have checked Oriellys, Auto Zone, and Advance Auto Parts, as well as Federated Auto and no one can get, an inner wheel bearing for my truck. Some didn’t have on listed at all...only the outlets. NAPA said there’s one in California and it’s 32.00 per bearing. Am I missing something? I see Rock Auto has them cheap, but won’t be here for close to a week. Where can I find an inner front wheel bearing? It looks like it might be part #A24 or BR31 in some vendors charts. Another book says SET27. This bearing looks different...can anyone explain the difference? Keep me posted. thanks, Andy agouge888
  11. Thanks guys. I found one in a junk yard search yesterday from a regular cab. I had to cut thes seal to remove the slider window. Do they take a stock rear seal,or a special seal just for the slider window? thanks, Andy
  12. I saw a 620 with sliding rear cab window this weekend. It was sillver and had four panels. The the two center panels were able to slide outward:) Can anyone tell me about these? Were they factory? Are they rare or desirable? Thanks Andy agouge888
  13. 74 seems to stay charged and no battery problems, but the red light on my dash gauge cluster stays on, wipers are slow, and headlights are dim. I checked the battery and when running it reads only 11.5v. Should it be closer to 14v if charging properly? I figured if I revel the motor or got the rpms up steady , the lights and wipers would pick up, but they don’t. thanks, agouge888
  14. I pulled my tank to clean and inspect it. I also wanted to check/ replace my sending unit. I ohm’d it out and I get nothing from the terminals , plus it’s really rusty. I grounded my yellow sender wire to the frame and the gauge reads full so gauge is good. I jumped my ground sender wire and yellow sender wire together and gauge reads full so looks like bad sending unit. Where can I get a new sending unit that works good and is a accurate with my fuel gauge? Also, on another fuel not...Just curious why the fuel tank outlet nipple is a couple of inches up from the bottom on the side of the tank? How does the last 2” of fuel get sucked up to the fuel pump? Is there a line inside that goes on to the bottom? Thanks, Andy
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