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About lovot

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  1. Thank you, really appreciate the help.
  2. It's a reman i put in this year, KAs are pretty boostable For the other concerns, an appropriately sized intercooler will greatly reduce preignition problems, although the bigger the intercooler, the more turbo lag you get, so as the engine gains boost either the lag must also increase, or higher octane fuel must be used, dropping the compression ratio also works, but low compression=low performance. The issue with KA-T is they always go by HP numbers instead of boost numbers with their guides, I'm not looking to increase the rev limit at all, or fool with the cam/valves, and there aren't any local shops that would port the heads, so while 7PSI should get my mostly stock engine into the low 200s provided the intercooler does it's job, it might get an engine with other mods to 300+, and that engine may need race fuel instead of 87 7PSI should do it for me, not making a track car here. Upgrading the rods doesn't seem that expensive, might as well do that while the head is off, can't find the thread, but they seem to be the next weak link after the head bolts/gasket https://frsport.com/eagle-6496n3d-ka24-engine-steel-forged-rods These use standard size crank bushings?
  3. Just wondering how much boost a KA24E can handle with 87 octane fuel and a decent intercooler, and if I should upgrade the rods/pistons/head gasket to make it a reliable daily driver. Already have ARP studs on order, since that seems to be the weakest component. This will be my first turbo build, so please go easy on me.
  4. Nevermind, found out the torsion bars are adjustable while I was under there for different reasons, would ask about the proper procedure for tightening them, but there's probably 20 different threads about that already.
  5. Nevermind, found a relocation kit at a local store, should probably close this thread now. Thanks for all the help!
  6. Currently my '88 RWD D21 is slightly overloaded, took care of the rear suspension with an add-a-leaf kit, but it has torsion bars in the front. It probably needs around 200lb worth of additional spring per side to get it riding where it's supposed to be. Note that the shocks are dead all around, so if anyone has air shock recommendations, or shocks with a bit of spring to them, then those need replacing anyway.
  7. This looks like it might work, already have a filter head laying around that I could put somewhere else. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Oil-Filter-Relocation-Male-Sandwich-Fitting-Adapter-Kit-3-4X16-20X1-5-Black/142211181752?hash=item211c726cb8:g:QpsAAOSwUMxZ7VoD Oh, and the Weber is preforming flawlessly, probably should have gone for the 38/38 but from what I understand the mounting is the same for both, so it shouldn't be a problem to switch later. Did have to build an adapter manifold, but it's a much nicer one than the first one I made.
  8. engine came with no adapter at all, currently the filter screws directly on to the engine block, same as it did with the Z24
  9. The intake manifold on the KA24E is blocking the oil filter from unscrewing all the way, going to have to take the intake off to change it out. Is there an adapter that bolts on to the oil filter flange that would convert it to a hose manifold so a random spin-on filter manifold could be mounted somewhere more accessible, or am going to have to build one? That area of the engine is already as busy as a 3 pecker billy goat, I would rather not have the oil filter directly in the middle of that mess.
  10. I mainly need the low end torque anyway, which the 32/36 should work fine for, if I want more out of it than that I'm going to need a turbo. the footprint on a 32/36 looks similar to the carb i already got, if it is, then it will bolt right on to the adapter manifold I already had to build to get it to interface with the KA style intake.
  11. What's the main difference between the two carbs?
  12. Thank you. Looks like a lot of those kits come with the air filter assembly too, nice.
  13. But for real, does anyone have any Weber carb recommendations? I already know I'm going to need to fabricate an adapter manifold to get it to fit, so don't worry about that.
  14. All right, got everything working, pickup is now drivable. Still not sure who made the carb I have, and the seller doesn't have any documentation on it, and i probably won't be able to find parts, because of this I'm tempted to switch to a Weber carb. Not sure which Weber to get since they didn't exactly build carbs specifically for a KA24E. The fuel solenoid and electronic choke both seem to have died on the carb I have, it plugs straight into the wiring harness on the truck, which is hot when the ignition is on. Both worked during the early tests I was doing, but now neither do, the fuel solenoid is always open (even when unplugged), and the electronic choke, which controls the fast idle cam as well is always on. I bent the tab on the vacuum actuator that mostly disables the choke once it has vacuum, so that it fully disengages the fast idle cam and choke as a workaround for the electric choke not working. Ended up using a T and a street L to connect the bypass loop to the hot side of the heater core, seems to work fine, no coolant comes out of the overflow, even after it's been running for a while, and the heater works, so that's solved. The Z24 main radiator hoses hook right up. The PCV seems to be working fine, the oil separator I made seemed to work on early tests, but I'll pull the hose when I do the 50 mile oil change to see if oil is still getting past the separator. Wanos dizzy is working great, probably need to use a timing light to make sure it's exactly in time, but I got it close enough by hand so that it runs properly Other notes: the Z24i fan will work on a KA24e fan clutch, note that the stock Z24i fan is noticeably smaller, and flows less air, and the Z24i fan clutch is also smaller. The fan shroud for a Z24i equipped truck is compatible with a KA24E fan, there is still clearance between the blade tips and shroud. The alternator adjustment bracket requires modding to work, for me all I had to do is use a vice to straighten out the bend in the Z24 adjustment bracket, and use one of the water pump bolts to affix it to the engine.
  15. Thank you, but now where does the heater core input go? it looks like hose B goes straight to what I assumed was the heater core input, so now the heater core hot side has nowhere to attach. Judging by how close the thermostat plate is to the bypass port, there is significant restriction there, even with the thermostat closed, using a T and an elbow to connect the heater core input to B looks like a potential solution. The coolant outlet slung under the intake manifold is not restricted, so it should be able to feed the bypass and heater core which both have significant restriction on their own, also means I can use straight lines instead of weird U hoses that are special order.
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