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i need help & guidance

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    1982 720 z22

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  1. look on fire wall for that vacuum line from motor that splits more than once and part goes to brake booster and part goes to electric device on fire wall above booster. mine had hose break off at a T , .. but looked like line was not broke cause T broke off clean, once i found vacuum line laying down behind other lines on fire wall and swung it up to see where it broke off. i replace T and idle improved .
  2. i need suggestions to help trouble shoot and narrow down what part could be making the transmission act funny . i think one of my parts could be sticking and or not delivering correct vacuum or is acting funny from cold weather because transmission staying in lock up issue tends to reduce or go away after everything warms up. after changing out transmission screen and fluid and replacing pan gasket and cleaning up split trans hoses and stuff i at least solved the trans fluid leak i had before , that was coming from cooler lines and around pan i read many horror stories about the many "fix a transmission" in a can so i dont want to go that route . if anything i will run this new transmission fluid for a while and let it get dirty then change out and run new and report results. not sure if this is good idea or not but i went to harbor freight and bought a pack of those high powered magnets # 67488 and put that in trans pan . before i put new gasket on and reinstalled pan .. to catch any dirt or possible metal debris moving around . these are really hard to move on pan , once they stick, so try and put them where you think they should be . i put magnets near where fluid line return dumps back in from cooler since many other cars i have done all have had a magnet in the trans fluid pan. from factory
  3. where is the vacuum line that goes in to the fast idle kick down hammer thing dash pot ? i dont see it in pix i dont see vacuum line going in to the side of dashpot. (thing with flat screw driver adjustment in middle of it) . and dont throw any of the old hose pieces. the hose pieces with white or silver or gold color on them are 1 way vale or air restricting metering hose. ...like the one you have the Philips screw stuck in it, my hose there has gold color and has a air restricting metering device inside of it. . so you wont be able to just hold it up and look through it , but it is not clogged ... so i had to go to oreilley and buy that little clear plastic box of countless little white barbed vacuum line hose couplings , then carefully barley just trim back the old gold colored hose's jagged ends with a razor and put the barbed coupling in and add a little piece of new hose to it . ...on my carb that dashpot thing has a hammer like pusher thing that comes out of bottom , that when vacuum is applied , pushes outward and kicks the fast idle cam out of way , when dashpot adjusted correctly between hammer and set screw it contacts , there is very little light or gap between them. on mine dashpot gets it's vacuum line , off a nipple on driver side of a device with electrical wires and additional vacuum lines going into it, up on fire wall , mounted on driver side above brake booster the other vacuum lines going to this electrical device had a black T on mine up along fire wall , that was broke , so i had to replace with new T also and reconnect those vacuum hoses before new vacuum line down to dashpot would work
  4. the tiny spring fell off the plastic fast idle cam ladder step thing. i tried putting spring back on using needle nose pliers while carb was still bolted. and i could not do it, so i had to take carb off. and remove cam and that is when i saw cam was wore out and brass set screw was sliding past 2nd ladder mark . so i squared up edges of cam with a Emory board and grinded the brass screw flat so it would have sharp edge to grab 2nd step of ladder 2nd step like haynes manual says. and put it back on . and everything is good and idle is great except... i have to solve transmission locking up issue
  5. this is as far as a i got today. i took cooler lines off and used air compressor to blow out fluid from radiator and both hard cooling lines going back to transmission here is as a far as a i got today .
  6. how do i know which of the trans cooler lines is return ? the trucks starts and runs and idles fine . * only when i shift truck in to drive or reverse the trans is not coming out gear far enough ,, to take load off engine. so it dies when idle is set to specs so i had to turn up idle to get engine to stay running . and have to shift to neutral when stopping at stop sign , where idle escalates when engine is in neutral i can turn idle way down to like 600 and it runs , idles smooth .. ... the choke and high idle work fine too,, when first starting . i had to replace new alternator the other day cause bearing went out. so that too is fixed and no more squealing belts at start up. i cant thank everyone enough for helping me. i will have fluid change soon and post update
  7. i had to turn idle up because the engine dies if i reduce the idle down to normal. if i move from drive to neutral at stop sign... the rpm goes way up. i took the carb off today and fixed the high idle cam thing . the spring had fallen off i ordered a transmission gasket today and will change atf fluid out Thursday when gasket comes in parts store said there was no trans filter or anything available to replace when pan is dropped ...is this true ? any suggestion or help regarding the fluid change would be great. thank you.
  8. i cant help but feel this issue is related to erratic and some times higher than normal idle. is it possible for these trucks to burn up the fuel pump if truck runs out of gas and you leave key on and coast down the road to a gas station ? ..
  9. feels as though i am trying to stop at stop sign in a manual transmission and have left the transmission in gear. bogs engine down the truck has been working great for last couple of months and now when i come to stop , trams places load on engine and stalls engine if i stop too hard and it feel like if you just let it idle and took foot off the brake. it would just move along like it does not want you to stop the truck. so i am thinking auto transmission is staying partially in lock up. fluid level is checked and is correct. do i need to do a service of transmission or check and see if transmission bell housing has come lose or what ever suggestions anyone has..
  10. . when setting A/F ratio screw is it best to screw all the way in 1st, and then back out until highest smooth vacuum is achieved or start with screw out and turn in until highest vacuum is achieved ? and other question is when turning screw in all the way. does all the way in give more ( air ) or more ( fuel ) ?
  11. sorry to hijack thread . . i just took pulley apart , cleaned it real good and filled inside of it with never seize
  12. my belt too has begun to squeal after the last 2 days of steady rain , not sure which belt it is, but it is loud , until it gets hot enough to stick to pulley
  13. i am looking for surface mount universal mirrors of some type that can be mounted on the door without have to take off the door panels the factory mirrors are too small for me . anyone found something that fits the contour of the door and has a mirror that is larger ?
  14. i put some blue tape on bench and put crazy glue gel on top of the blue tape. then set magnet on crazy glue and used zip kick to fast dry glue. (because magnet keep pushing parts away from each other and kept cracking when handled ) then i peeled up magnet off bench trimmed blue tape at edge of magnet and put magnet back in. reassembly cleaned up set air gap 
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