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Nustad 510

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About Nustad 510

  • Rank
    Newbie

Profile Information

  • Location
    Newbury Australia
  • Cars
    71 510, 72 510, 74 610
  • Interests
    Car restoration, Music

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  1. Thanks Paradime, Im running 14 x 6.5 +25 wheels on the rear. BR Specials. A Watanabe look a like. What you described is what I was thinking of doing. In my case, a bees d**k is all I need to shave off the edge of the trailing arm to achieve the correct clearance. One poorly positioned wheel weight is the only thing preventing the rim from turning freely. I did specifically ask the wheel shop to put ALL weights inboard.
  2. Hi everyone, Does anyone have photos of their rear control arms after trimming the leading edge for wheel clearance? Thanks, Shaun.
  3. Thanks people, Counted some teeth. My short tail 63a dogleg box has a 16 tooth speedo gear, as does my original 510 4 speed box. At this point I will wait for my new 14 inch rims and tyres and check with GPS, then see where things are at. Mike, I took exactly the same picture when explaining this issue to a friend. 71B speedo drive assemblies are shorter. Cheers, Shaun
  4. Hi all, I have a dogleg five speed gearbox in my 510 with an R180 diff and 4.11 gears. What speedo drive are you people running to keep the speedo reading correctly? I have a red 20 tooth gear from a Zed car, however, the alloy speedo drive housings are different between the long and short tail gearboxes. The early speedo gears are easily drifted off the shaft but later ones do not seem to come off. Any help on how you overcome this would be great. Thanks, Shaun.
  5. Thanks people, I am pleased to report the problem is fixed. I ran a cable from the negative battery terminal to the body (a captive nut on the strut tower) as Mike described above. Everything now functions correctly. Upon reflection, my previous 510 had this exact cable, I somehow didn't realise it was missing on this car. Thanks again, Cheers Shaun.
  6. Thanks again Mike. I only have the negative battery cable to the engine block. Ill be adding the cable you described. Cheers.
  7. Hi all, Changed the relay for another stock one and tried a modern Nissan three pin horn relay as well and still no luck. Pressing the horn button only lights up the fender indicators. I did get a small electric shock with fingers on the old style relay casing and my hand against the strut tower, whilst pressing the horn button. Unfortunately to confirm this I had to press the horn a few times. ouch! Beginning to think there's an earth issue as the headlights make the fender indicators illuminate too.
  8. Thanks Mike, I grounded the Black/Green wire to the negative battery terminal and got nothing. Using a multimeter I checked for continuity in the wiring between the two horn assemblies and from the horns to the relay. That was OK. I have battery voltage at the relay and continuity in the wire between the relay and steering wheel. Looking very much like the relay is to blame. Thanks for your advice. I'll let you know what happens.
  9. Hi datzenmike, Thanks for the reply. The horn relay does click when I push the horn button. The horn fuse is 20amps and I have full battery voltage to both sides of it in the fuse box. I will try grounding the Black/Green wire to test the relay. Weirdly, the fender indicators illuminate when the horn is pressed. Appreciate your help. Cheers, Shaun.
  10. Hi all, Ive got a 71 510, four door, RHD. At the end of a long resto. I've got an electrical issue that has me stumped. Really hoping someone can help. With ignition on, the flashers all work normally. With headlights on, the front fender indicators partially illuminate. If the ignition is on and the flashers working and I turn on the headlights the flashers stop blinking. The horns also stopped working, despite operating fine on a bench test. All the fuses are new and intact and ive cleaned all the connections I can find. Seems to me like an earth or stray current issue. Any suggestions would be much appreciated. Cheers, Shaun.
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