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Just.Ice.T

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About Just.Ice.T

  • Rank
    Newbie

Profile Information

  • Location
    Jacksonville, AR
  • Cars
    1979 Datsun 510 wagon
  • Interests
    Music, Datsun ms

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  1. Well I just got some BP6ES’s put in there, no resistor this time. What’s a good way to check the ohms? Or is that a easy google question?
  2. Oooo... thank you for this. I’ll get em swapped out ASAP.
  3. So I swapped the plugs from the exhaust side to the intake side. For whatever reason, it seems to run a tad smoother now, on the intake side. I’m still getting that noise, but after doing that quick check with the exhaust cold, I feel a leak right where the tri-bolt flange connects to the manifold. The bolts are tight... so I’m not sure how to fix that. Maybe that’s causing my noise, and I only hear it at higher rpms? the new plugs I put in were NGK BPR6ES. The old ones that are unused (now in the exhaust side) at the moment were nasty looking. Had pretty decent carbon deposits on
  4. I’ll try the intake side, but running both would entail getting an 8 plug dizzy and another coil. I’m mainly just trying to make sure I’m diagnosing the noise properly. I’ll see if swapping the sides will work though, thanks for the replies
  5. It came with a 4-plug dizzy, running only the plugs on the exhaust side. The sticker under the hood says 8 degrees for stock, but I have it running at 10 ish to compensate for having only 4 plugs, instead of 8. I’ve tried backing it off (retarding) further than 10, but the car starts/runs much worse.
  6. So you think it’s a timing thing? Is this what people mean by “pinging” when the timing is too advanced?
  7. Just.Ice.T

    Spark knock?

    So, I have a ‘79 510 with a dual plug head (Cali emissions) z20s from an ‘80 510 in it. Under acceleration, engine completely warm, I hear a loud chatter/knock at about 2k+ RPM. The timing is set right. I also have tried different grades of fuels. It does it regardless. Any remedies? Carbon buildup perhaps? It doesn’t do it at idle, so I ruled out exhaust leak for now. Thanks in advance
  8. Awesome, thank you! I ended up finding a dual plug dizzy, refurbished already, for $120. But if there’s no power difference, I don’t think it’d be worth the trouble of swapping it. I’d have to buy 2 new coils, and wire it all together. The car runs fine right now, I don’t wanna take apart something that works unless it’s definitely worth it.
  9. @datzenmike If I were to find an 8-plug dizzy, would it make more power? Or at least run more efficiently?
  10. It is the Hitachi E12-80. It’s not stock for sure. The PO put it in, running only one side of the plugs. If I find an 8 plug one, I’ll snag it. I replaced the seal when everything was out, carefully, and oiled everything. When I put the GL-5 in, it leaked the same way, so I thought I over filled it. I drained the GL-5 out and added the Royal Purple in a little more carefully, and it still does it, just not as much. whats a good non-synth GL-4??
  11. @datzenmike It came with a 4 plug (single coil) dizzy. I couldn’t find a 8 plug (dual coil) one, or I would’ve run that. But yeah, I have observed a LITTLE wetness on the driveshaft from the output shaft seal. It’s def tranny fluid... because purple... What fluid would you recommend exactly? I just used the royal purple to get the car on the road again.
  12. Hello all, Over the past 8 months, or so, I've been doing an eng/tranny swap into my '79 510 Wagon. It had a 5 speed/L20 combo, originally. A friend of mine, @dukerollo, took the eng/tranny out to swap into his 210 and put the A15/automatic into the wagon. He already lowered the wagon and did the trans tunnel work. I ended up buying the wagon from him, drove it for about a year or so, then we started toying around the idea of swapping another motor in. The A15 ran pretty strong, but was a little small for the wagon. Anyways, he ended up finding a '81 Wagon out in Oklahoma (we're in A
  13. I got a test light, and discovered that the timing was pretty advanced, if I’m reading the time gauge on the motor properly. Under the hood, it looks like the sticker shows about 7ish degrees. Without doing anything, car running, the time slot on the crank pulley wasn’t even close to being near the gauge. I adjusted the dizzy back within the normal parameters of the slots on the dizzy’s plate. I got it to about 12-15 degrees on the motor’s gauge. The motor liked being a little bit advanced from the sticker, probably from running 4 plugs instead of 8. This was kind of humbling... I
  14. I got it running! I rotated the spark plug wires clockwise to give it more advance, and wa-la, it started. It runs now, but it still sounds like the timing is just a little latent. The dizzy is turned with as much advance that the slot allows. I’ll try rotating the plug wires clockwise once more, then rotate the dizzy all the way latent and see what happens. It’s really close though. The PO already ground out a little bit of the slot for the dizzy to rotate counterclockwise more (more latent). So I’m guessing that’s how they had it set up. I’ll also pick up a timing li
  15. UPDATE: Due to the fact that I'm on a time crunch now, I ordered a new dizzy. I got the Hot-spark replacement that fits an L20. Install was straight forward, thanks to there only being one way it can go in. I got it installed, along with the 3.0 ohm coil, and WA-LA! spark! I had to reuse the original mounting bracket, the new one's dimensions aren't correct. It fired up a couple of times, but it mostly just coughs and spits out of the carb. I have the Weber 32/36 installed on it. I feel like it'll be a balance of fuel/air and timing adjustments now. The timing has to be p
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