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Tank.

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Everything posted by Tank.

  1. I just got these (1-1/2”), they are not hub centric. The typical 106 hub centric bore is too big and will not work. https://www.ebay.com/itm/2-38mm-6x5-5-Wheel-Spacers-1-5-inch-Adapters-12x1-25-Studs/333721569010
  2. Not sure yet, I need the cab on to go any further but I’d like to just modify the stock cable. But the inner cable looks like it needs to be replaced, it’s a little rusty. I’ll end up routing it over the transmission and through the right torsion bar tube since it’s not there anymore.
  3. I was able to get the parking brake mostly done. The only part left to sort out is the connection between the handle cable and the new setup. This is a universal kit from CPP that came with everything but the brackets. I made those and welded them to the lower link brackets. Since I swapped it from the left side of the frame to the right, I’ll need to add an insulated clamp to the bottom of the bed to hold the left side up out of the way of the driveshaft, but that will be easy. The angle iron represent the bottom of the bed and cab. I left a lot of cable on the front side and plan to cut that
  4. That’s my next step, I have a really good one about an hour away.
  5. Does anyone know if there is a pinion flange for an H190 that changes the u-joint from datsun to a spicer 1310? The reason I ask is I am having a 1 piece driveshaft made for my Ka24de 5spd swap 620 and I can get a 1310 style slip yoke for that but can’t find a comparable pinion flange.
  6. Thanks. Looking forward to getting it out and driving. I have had a lot of fun building the truck so far, hope to be working on the body soon.
  7. I have a roller! The spacers I have are not the final ones but at least it rolls. And then there’s this....uncovered it for the first time in months. Charging the battery and going to wake it back up soon.
  8. Sure do as I was fighting a broken bolt for this yesterday. It’s M10x1.25
  9. Well I learned the differences of the oem wheels from you, but I was under the impression for the rear kit, some 14s fit. But you would know better than me.
  10. By the way, early style oem 620 wheels DO NOT fit Isuzu rear brakes with beebani brackets. Not that big of a deal for me since I was planning on putting spacers on anyway. But it would be nice not to have to fool with them if i didn’t want to.
  11. Front revisited - here’s a peek at the sway bar solution! Utilizing heim joints between the sway bar end and the lower coil over bolt with a spacer to give clearance to the spring. I cut the end of the sway bar off about 1-1/2” from where it is full diameter, then rotated it to better fit the heim joint. After that, Z cut both to weld them back together. Everything has plenty of clearance and plays nice together. However I did notch the side of the lower control arm for heim joint clearance. The bar is finished and the paint is drying. But I have a broken bolt in
  12. Thanks, I’ll still be around, probably won’t be done! Still have a very long way to go and have less and less time to put in it. Turbos...yeah I might single turbo the Z in a few years, but not the truck. It’s just the putt around truck.
  13. Time Left: 10 days and 4 hours

    • FOR SALE
    • USED

    Would rather not ship any of this. Parts are from a 72 620. Full suspension front and rear- $60 king pins are in great shape. Also includes torsion bars and hardware. Gas tank in really good condition- $50 This is the type that hangs from the bed, not the frame Rear Brake Drums and backing plates- $30 3 drums, 2 full backing plates (not cut)

    $1

    Zionville, North Carolina - US

  14. The exhaust is done, as is the fuel system and brake lines. I repurposed the old 620 hangers and reworked one of the frontier hangers. I’ll admit it’s a little janky but it’s definitely firm where it needs to be. Next is figuring out an e brake setup and get the driveshaft shortened.
  15. Comparatively speaking, I have twice that in modifying my 240z tank for an aeromotive phantom unit and restoration. So for nearly everything I need for a little over $400 sounded like a good deal to me!!
  16. No it’s a universal truck tank kit from Tanks Inc. UT-N-2HT. Came with pretty much everything, I changed the filler cap to one like a late model ford, just stick it in and go. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/tnk-utn2htkitgml
  17. Just a few things left to do on the exhaust now. Mainly hangers and fully weld the front portion, oh and I need one clamp for in front of the resonator. I’ll finish the tail pipe once the bed is back on, but there is a 90 just stuck in there for now to get an idea.
  18. Got started on the exhaust, was able to keep all of it above the bottom of the frame. There’s just one hard angle joint which is just due to my inexperience. It was a little difficult to get above the transmission crossmember. Otherwise just need to make an S to go from the resonator to the muffler, then I plan on running a 90 straight out the side in front of the rear tire. The header is for an S14, it’s a chinese make but it was $48 bucks, so....let’s see how long it lasts. Return line is co
  19. It looks like my old 2011 Silverado color which was Blue Granite Metallic. Or possibly the Toyota variant.
  20. Awesome, thanks. I bet he’s on more than just the 520/521 stuff so I’ll have to do some searching. I’d love to have something like that made for the Z and 620.
  21. And where did you acquire this neat nugget?
  22. Lol those are there just so I could form the new line. They will go in the vibratory parts cleaner and painted this week.
  23. Finished the rear, just need to run the return line to the fuel tank and vent. Otherwise tighten things to spec and move on to the exhaust. I used 5/16 aluminum for the fuel hard line and copper nickel 3/16 for the brake lines with stainless steel tube nuts. That’s the fuel filter bracket from the Frontier, fits nicely here and should be extremely easy to change. Also dropped the stock wheels off here locally for a guy to sandblas
  24. That’s good to know. There are a lot of modern calipers made like that now.
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