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Tank.

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  • Location
    NC
  • Cars
    1973 VQ35 S30 : 1972 620
  • Interests
    Anything with wheels

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  1. Nice, looks like a clean example to start with.
  2. Finished up the mechanics of the brakes, and made the accelerator cable. Just ordered a new rubber stopper for the brake light switch, but otherwise the brake setup is all good. For the accelerator cable, I took pieces from the original and modified the frontier cable to make one. So at the firewall to the pedal, it’s 620 parts. From the firewall out, it’s frontier. Turned out to be 27” tip to tip. I cut the frontier cable, and the made a new end for it. So I drilled down in a piece of wood about 3/8”, then melted lead in it with the cable. From there I shaped it to mimic the original so the oem clip still works for the 620 accelerator pedal. Works great! From there I made a pedal stop on the back of the oem pedal. Forgot to get a photo of that but I will at some point.
  3. What a journey…nice job! That sense of accomplishment when everything works is priceless.
  4. It took me 12 years to build my Z, I’m really trying to have the truck done a little faster…lol I’d like my son to learn how to drive a stick in it, he’s 5 now.
  5. Worked a little on the master cylinder/booster setup. I’m changing to a 3-3/8” square booster bolt pattern (which is a very common booster pattern) and a 7” single diaphragm booster. And I got a really good deal on a wilwood master cylinder that I couldn’t pass up from a buddy. So I made an adapter plate out of some 2” flat stock, cut 4 pieces and welded them together. Now the idea is to weld the OEM booster bracket to the bracket I made. I’m not going to weld it until I put the steering column in so that I can get the booster exactly where it needs to be. So now I’m pretty much running a very common chevy pattern of which parts can be found anywhere for years to come.
  6. Got some goodies this week!!!! Pretty much the same setup I have in the Z except for the combo. Speedhuts 3-3/8” gps speedo, tach, and combo. Could not have been easier to install. Literally dropped them in and put the threaded ring on the back, done.
  7. Tank.

    Misc 620 parts

    Looking for solid back glass, a good windshield, and the battery hold down.
  8. Yeah I have 2 voltage regulators and tried them both, same result. I think this is a rabbit hole I don’t have time to go down so my friend will most likely have to get this looked at by an old timer - Rock Vest.
  9. It works, I used this technique in my Z removing the tar based sound deadener.
  10. Hah, yeah it’s 16.7 running, 12.7 off.
  11. Which is B+? I have A, E, F, N. In this case, would you be referring to A? Thanks!
  12. I can’t speak to the local shop that replaced in the first place…but it could have certainly have been an internally regulated alternator that they installed. And the one they installed wasn’t working, it was reading 8.5. Which according to the service manual, anything below 12.5 is no bueno. The alternator I installed (pictured above) seems to be working, it reads above 12.5. I should also add the ammeter seems to working as well. And thanks for the tips, much appreciated.
  13. I also tested the sensing wire (white/black stripe) at the alternator and it was seeing 15.5 running. And there is continuity from the alternator to the voltage regulator (yellow wire) so all good there as well.
  14. I’m working on a friend’s 260z, it’s all original except for the radio which was recently installed. He had the alternator replaced at a local shop and has been experiencing some weird things of which some were not related. But it was over charging (up to 20 volts) and ended up cooking the battery. The alternator turned out to be bad and didn’t look like the original anyway. So I replaced it with a rebuilt hitachi (don’t know the part # because it’s not even listed as a hitachi) that looks correct. Also grabbed a new voltage regulator just in case. So it has a new alternator, new voltage regulator, and is still experiencing overcharging from 16-18 volts with no load, 13.8 with a full load (AC, fan, headlights, etc.). I have tested the continuity of the wiring harness side grounds of the voltage regulator and it is all good there. There is continuity with “F” and the capacitor below the voltage regulator so that appears to be all good too. At this point, I have no clue what to check, any advice/direction would be appreciated!
  15. Had a detour to work on my father-in-law’s 50 ford truck frame. Just made the exact same fuel/brake setup as the datsun. Otherwise haven’t done much lately, too busy. But I was playing around with working out the brake booster/prop valve situation this evening actually. I have a list of things to work on while the cab is on. Hopefully will have more soon.
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