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Chiefbauske

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About Chiefbauske

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  • Location
    Virginia
  • Cars
    Datsun Sunny
  • Interests
    Mustangs Datsuns

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  1. I have no clue. How can I tell if there is no choke plate on it? Since I’m told it’s electronically controlled and all my wires are connected I would assume so.
  2. But it also is spitting out black smoke meaning it runs rich (correct?) I can’t find any other adjustment screwing on it beside the idle adjustment screw.
  3. https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F261852564345 this is is what I have currently installed. Like I said when I place my hand over the top of it it runs perfectly fine. But when I remove my hand it speeds up into at least 2k+ rpms.
  4. Cable is loose. I cant even find a choke plate on this carb or the original. And right now the screw is adjusted to where if I cover up the top of the carb (so the part of the carb that has the opening on the top) it idles at 950ish rpms (my tach is dead). The choke is electric I believe. I’m just now learning about carbs so if I don’t know the whole terminology feel free to fill me in.
  5. Okay so based on your experience what do you think my problem is? Is the mixture too rich?
  6. It’s an 84 I got it off of eBay (bad Idea) I put a my hand on top of where the intake would be (so the top of the carb) and it idled fine. But the moment I take it off it accelerates like crazy. Wouldn’t that lead to one to think there’s s vacuum leak?
  7. Installed a new shitachi carb on my Datsun/Nissan Sentra and it’ll idle for about ten seconds then it’ll bog down. I’ve adjust the idle screw but can’t even find the air to fuel screw. When I plug up the intake on the car it idles fine but the moment I take it off it bogs down. I’ve checked for vacuum leaks and can’t find any. I used the wd40 method and the engine didn’t idle and different at any of the vacuum ports. I was told to check the float level but on this new carb there isn’t a dot or notch on the glass. The fuel in the glass sits about half way. My carb base nuts are tightened as tight as I can get them.
  8. Already did when it was on. It was moving back and forth but always in the on position. Like it was trying to go back to its shut position. Sounds like it was stuck. When I tore apart the carb I was easily able to get the valve in the same stick position. Stupid me. Should’ve thought about it before buying another carb.
  9. Yeah high rpms unpon a cold start is normal but this is like wild my dude. Like 3k-4K rpms. When at idle the primary would be slightly open (as usual I believe) but the secondary is at full open. I’m hoping it’s not just a “stuck valve” situation and I wasted some money on a shitachi carb and it could’ve been solved with a screw driver forcing it to shut from where it was stuck. Fingers crossed
  10. The Sentra is an 84 model sedan. It has 103k miles exactly on it and has been garage kept until I bought it about three months ago. I’m a lead mechanic at a ford dealership so I’m pretty knowledgeable when it comes to edlebrock carbs and the like. It’s just these Japanese made carb are killing me ??‍♂️
  11. Hey mike you’re the exact person I was hoping to answer my question! And it’s actually a Nissan Datsun Sentra B11. But I was told to refer to it as a sunny when talking to Datsun fanatics. At first I thought it was a vacuum but like you said in earlier posts you’ve never seen a high idle caused by a vacuum leak. Therefore what could it be ?
  12. I’m having major issues with my hitachi carb. At first my rpms were skyrocketing (wanna day 3-4K?). It was backfiring alot and this was after a heavy rain fall. Once I took off the air filter I looked into the carb and saw The secondary valve seems to fluttering a million times a second and I can’t seem to figure out why. I want to say it’s a vacuum leak in the diaphragm but when I took the old carb off the diaphragm seemed okay. I never thought to check for a vacuum leak before hand. I’m not experienced with carb that much unfortunately and my brand new carb just came in but won’t be able to be installed until after the carb to manifold gaskets come in. If this doesn’t work I’m just going to upgrade to a Weber. I also noticed the bootle on the choke (I think it’s the choke) it’s small about an inch tall and quarter inch wide was torn. Does anyone have any idea why this is happening?
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