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Jon's AD3 720

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Everything posted by Jon's AD3 720

  1. ok. im not loosing it i promise. i thought i already posted this issue. i let a friend borrow my truck and he drove it on the freeway at 70mph. i never take it over 55. now it is running rough and leaking a lot of oil. the oil is not coming from the top end as far as i can tell. no oil in the water and vise versa. replaced head gasket a year ago or so. it is a Z24 with a Z22 head. rear main maybe, but why is it running rough also? am i dealing with two problems or one? webber carb. i will look into front cover leaking as well as the sender. should i compression check?i was checking to see if a spark plug was not working by pulling plug wires one by one and didnt change how it runs. i have some dye that i can put in the oil that shows up under black light. i can degrees and black light for the leak. does the leak explain running rough though? any further advice?
  2. i'm an hour north of Seattle. what parts are you looking for?
  3. That was it. thank you. Now that you told me that i should have known because i think i have had this problem in the past and someone on here told me the same solution. thanks again.
  4. yesterday my turn signals/blinkers stopped working. all 4 of them worked perfectly before. haven't done anything to the truck recently that would have caused this...that i know of. The turn signal lights inside the cab on the gauge cluster stopped working as well. is this a bad switch in the steering column or a relay or something? any advice would be great. thank you. -Jon
  5. have you looked at all the junk yards/ pick and pull places around your extended area yet?
  6. ill see if i can help. what are you looking for?
  7. i have similar issues where my body mounts to the frame and i got some 16 gauge steel remnants from work. still havent started the repair. hopefully when the weather gets better this spring/summer ill have time. i have the carpet pulled out and a new one to replace it, but for now when its raining the tires sling water up through the small holes in the floor and get my pants wet.
  8. i live in mount vernon and i may know where there are some parts trucks if you are in need.
  9. that fixed it. Shes back on the road and chargin at 13 or 14 volts.
  10. i am having an over charging issue. gauge is reading 18 volts. i have heard that this can be a result of bad ground connections. i am also thinking i should get my alternator tested to see if the voltage regulator is bad. i also checked my voltage at the battery and it is over charging so it isn't a bad gauge. has anyone experienced this issue?
  11. i just replaced the valve seals and a mechanic said that the guides were tight enough when he machined my valves and seats. it is what it is at this point then unless i replace my valve guides or replace the head right? There is a chance that i didn't seat one of my seals all the way? would this only be happening on exhaust valves? or both exhaust and intake?
  12. I will reset the valve lash as per mikes previous instructions. Thank you for your advice NC.
  13. ok. first of all, thank you mike for the help and advice. secondly, a couple more issues. took the truck up in the mountains and it did great on the way up. On the way down trying to regulate my speed with compression so i didn't overheat my breaks my truck started to smoke a lot. smoke from burning oil. is this oil being sucked past the rings into the cylinder? additionally 15 miles from home my voltage light came on and the gauge was reading 18 V. my thought is that either my sensor is bad or my voltage regulator is bad. i will check voltage at the battery terminals with a multi meter when engine running and see if the gauge and the multi meter match. if matches it is the regulator. if they do not match it is the sensorhas anyone else experienced this issue?
  14. you are going to have to include some more info to help us understand what you have and what you want. what do you want to do with your truck? street? mud? 18" sounds large in combination with a 2" drop. why do you only want steel wheels? post a picture of your truck. if your truck in not "level" then how is dropping it "2" all around" going to level it out?
  15. got it running. fired right up after cranking for half a second. runs smooth (correct timing). need to adjust the idle and throttle cable a little bit, but that is easy enough. it smoked pretty good after it warmed up, but i expected that after all the spilled oil and coolant from disassembly. i only replaced intake exhaust head and valve gaskets. new valve oil seals, and new spark plugs. the smoke out of the exhaust pipe stopped eventually, but would smoke heavily when i went to drive it.( under strain) i have only driven it around the block. there is a noticeable ticking coming from the motor. i adjust the valve lash to 0.012" COLD when assembling and i know i need to adjust it to 0.012" when it is warm and i will do so this weekend. questions: what could this ticking be? valve against rocker arm? it couldn't be valve against piston right? is this smoke/steam coming out of the exhaust normal? could water be getting sucked in past the intake gasket? what is the torque on the intake bolts. i couldn't find it in the owners shop manual. i will try to post a video of it running so you can hear the ticking sound.
  16. Jon's AD3 720

    Repro fenders

    mine say TI YEE and GORUND on them. i dont get any helpful results when googling those two names either.
  17. Jon's AD3 720

    Repro fenders

    i have aftermarket fenders on my 83 720, but im not sure who the manufacture is. i will check when i get home.
  18. Jon's AD3 720

    Donki

    are you talking about valve lash or the amount of acceptable movement, side to side if you will, between the valve guide and the valve?
  19. finally got time to tackle this head. i thought i would see more damage to the head gasket as well as the exhaust manifold gasket seeing as how i had coolant in the oil as well as coolant squirting out between the head and the exhaust manifold. I still need to test the head for warpage. intake valves look good. exhaust valves have very minor pitting. the seating surfaces look good. (i forgot to get a picture of this) i have not inspected the valve seats yet. (tonight). i will have the head dye penetrant tested this weekend for cracks since my head gasket had no visible damage. Questions: if a coolant passageway opening interfaces with a metal inner ring of the head gasket is that a source of gasket compromise? there are also coolant passageways in the head and block that do not have corresponding holes through the gasket. is this normal? (shown in picture above. teardrop imprints in the filter.) some of the threaded holes in the head that bolt the exhaust manifold on are stripped out. should i high temp epoxy studs in these locations? it appears that is what the previous owner has done on some of the exhaust and intake holes. ( shown above. guessing the three posts on my head aren't factory done) Or should i up-size the hole and re-tap and use larger hardware? what is the torque spec for the Intake, Exhaust, head, and rocker arm bolts? besides replacing the head bolts, is it advised to replace any of the other bolts? does anyone have the part number for the aluminum valve cover gasket? NAPA gave me the rubber one which i believe is for the stamped steel cover not the cast aluminum one. from my research i need a cork rubber gasket. i have the raw gasket material and i could make one if needed. any help would be greatly appreciated. getting started "Milky" mess cleaned up somewhat. still need to finish prepping block surface. bought a wedge off amazon that didnt work for shit. ended up making my own out of wood. pretty filthy valves. keeping things organized.
  20. Time Left: 5 days and 23 hours

    • WANTED
    • USED

    looking for a Z24 head. not sure what year truck it came out of, but it is in my 83 720. i have a few potential donor vehicles, but if someone already has one pulled i would prefer that. i am located in NW WA. im not looking to pay an arm and a leg on shipping. let me know what you have.

    NO VALUE SPECIFIED

    Mount Vernon , Washington - US

  21. i know i have read it before, but i can not find the thread. mike i think you said that buying OEM gaskets will get much better longer lasting results over cheaper aftermarket brands. where do i order those (intake, head, exhaust, and valve cover), and does anyone know part numbers for those?
  22. I have seen your previous posts about blocking the chain tensioner I will buy that plastic wedge tool. Let the fun begin.
  23. inspected some more. my oil level is fine. and it isn't smoke coming out of my exhaust it's steam. i have coolant coming up out of the rear exhaust manifold gasket when i start it after it sits warm for a few minutes. i also have milky oil stuck to the oil cap. so i have water in my oil, i have a bad exhaust manifold gasket for sure, I have a bad head gasket, and i may have a bad/cracked head letting water into the exhaust and oil. am i diagnosing this correctly? do i have a bad head gasket for sure? Is my next step pulling the head straight away? Shit! 😕
  24. I was a quart low on oil the other day so i put a quart of Lucas heavy duty oil stabilizer in instead of oil and now my engine is smoking a lot more than it used to ( from the exhaust). i have the Z24 that was rebuilt in the last 3k miles. should i not have used the Lucas? is there a reason why the Lucas and the smoking would be related and occur at the same time? Also, i don't know if it is related, but i think i developed what sounds like an exhaust leak coming from the manifold. this also started the same day that i added the Lucas stabilizer. are these all related, or does the smoke and exhaust least have nothing to do with the Lucas? i haven't done a soapy water test on the exhaust yet, and i haven't done a compression test since the symptoms occurred either. any ideas or thoughts on the Lucas Oil? i don't know if this info sheds any light on a potential solution, but my compression from the front of the engine to the back was 146, 126, 141, 142 before these symptoms. the engine purrs smoothly at idle when it is warmed up, but you can still hear the "ticking" sound that i think is the exhaust leak. when i accelerate the sound gets louder and more frequent. the sound does not go away from thermal expansion as the engine warms up either. any ideas? thanks.
  25. You aren’t talking about these right? I think we already talked about the 1” ish drain holes in the floor pan, and this is what I used for replacements. Hope the amazon link works. I still have to get to get my floor pan dried in. I sunk it in a puddle last week and got a bunch of water and river silt inside. 1" 1 inch Flush Mount Black Plastic Body and Sheet Metal Hole Plug Qty 10 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PEZS37I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_kkICCbZ8JHJFA
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