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Jon's AD3 720

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About Jon's AD3 720

  • Rank
    Newbie

Profile Information

  • Location
    Mount Vernon, Washington
  • Cars
    1983 Datsun 720, 4x4, King Cab
  • Interests
    Being outdoors, riding my Harley, working on my vehicles, and spending time with my wife and kids.

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  1. i live in mount vernon and i may know where there are some parts trucks if you are in need.
  2. that fixed it. Shes back on the road and chargin at 13 or 14 volts.
  3. i am having an over charging issue. gauge is reading 18 volts. i have heard that this can be a result of bad ground connections. i am also thinking i should get my alternator tested to see if the voltage regulator is bad. i also checked my voltage at the battery and it is over charging so it isn't a bad gauge. has anyone experienced this issue?
  4. i just replaced the valve seals and a mechanic said that the guides were tight enough when he machined my valves and seats. it is what it is at this point then unless i replace my valve guides or replace the head right? There is a chance that i didn't seat one of my seals all the way? would this only be happening on exhaust valves? or both exhaust and intake?
  5. I will reset the valve lash as per mikes previous instructions. Thank you for your advice NC.
  6. ok. first of all, thank you mike for the help and advice. secondly, a couple more issues. took the truck up in the mountains and it did great on the way up. On the way down trying to regulate my speed with compression so i didn't overheat my breaks my truck started to smoke a lot. smoke from burning oil. is this oil being sucked past the rings into the cylinder? additionally 15 miles from home my voltage light came on and the gauge was reading 18 V. my thought is that either my sensor is bad or my voltage regulator is bad. i will check voltage at the battery terminals with a multi meter when engine running and see if the gauge and the multi meter match. if matches it is the regulator. if they do not match it is the sensorhas anyone else experienced this issue?
  7. you are going to have to include some more info to help us understand what you have and what you want. what do you want to do with your truck? street? mud? 18" sounds large in combination with a 2" drop. why do you only want steel wheels? post a picture of your truck. if your truck in not "level" then how is dropping it "2" all around" going to level it out?
  8. got it running. fired right up after cranking for half a second. runs smooth (correct timing). need to adjust the idle and throttle cable a little bit, but that is easy enough. it smoked pretty good after it warmed up, but i expected that after all the spilled oil and coolant from disassembly. i only replaced intake exhaust head and valve gaskets. new valve oil seals, and new spark plugs. the smoke out of the exhaust pipe stopped eventually, but would smoke heavily when i went to drive it.( under strain) i have only driven it around the block. there is a noticeable ticking coming from the motor. i adjust the valve lash to 0.012" COLD when assembling and i know i need to adjust it to 0.012" when it is warm and i will do so this weekend. questions: what could this ticking be? valve against rocker arm? it couldn't be valve against piston right? is this smoke/steam coming out of the exhaust normal? could water be getting sucked in past the intake gasket? what is the torque on the intake bolts. i couldn't find it in the owners shop manual. i will try to post a video of it running so you can hear the ticking sound.
  9. Jon's AD3 720

    Repro fenders

    mine say TI YEE and GORUND on them. i dont get any helpful results when googling those two names either.
  10. Jon's AD3 720

    Repro fenders

    i have aftermarket fenders on my 83 720, but im not sure who the manufacture is. i will check when i get home.
  11. Jon's AD3 720

    Donki

    are you talking about valve lash or the amount of acceptable movement, side to side if you will, between the valve guide and the valve?
  12. finally got time to tackle this head. i thought i would see more damage to the head gasket as well as the exhaust manifold gasket seeing as how i had coolant in the oil as well as coolant squirting out between the head and the exhaust manifold. I still need to test the head for warpage. intake valves look good. exhaust valves have very minor pitting. the seating surfaces look good. (i forgot to get a picture of this) i have not inspected the valve seats yet. (tonight). i will have the head dye penetrant tested this weekend for cracks since my head gasket had no visible damage. Questions: if a coolant passageway opening interfaces with a metal inner ring of the head gasket is that a source of gasket compromise? there are also coolant passageways in the head and block that do not have corresponding holes through the gasket. is this normal? (shown in picture above. teardrop imprints in the filter.) some of the threaded holes in the head that bolt the exhaust manifold on are stripped out. should i high temp epoxy studs in these locations? it appears that is what the previous owner has done on some of the exhaust and intake holes. ( shown above. guessing the three posts on my head aren't factory done) Or should i up-size the hole and re-tap and use larger hardware? what is the torque spec for the Intake, Exhaust, head, and rocker arm bolts? besides replacing the head bolts, is it advised to replace any of the other bolts? does anyone have the part number for the aluminum valve cover gasket? NAPA gave me the rubber one which i believe is for the stamped steel cover not the cast aluminum one. from my research i need a cork rubber gasket. i have the raw gasket material and i could make one if needed. any help would be greatly appreciated. getting started "Milky" mess cleaned up somewhat. still need to finish prepping block surface. bought a wedge off amazon that didnt work for shit. ended up making my own out of wood. pretty filthy valves. keeping things organized.
  13. Time Left: 13 days and 9 hours

    • WANTED
    • USED

    looking for a Z24 head. not sure what year truck it came out of, but it is in my 83 720. i have a few potential donor vehicles, but if someone already has one pulled i would prefer that. i am located in NW WA. im not looking to pay an arm and a leg on shipping. let me know what you have.

    NO VALUE SPECIFIED

    Mount Vernon , Washington - US

  14. i know i have read it before, but i can not find the thread. mike i think you said that buying OEM gaskets will get much better longer lasting results over cheaper aftermarket brands. where do i order those (intake, head, exhaust, and valve cover), and does anyone know part numbers for those?
  15. I have seen your previous posts about blocking the chain tensioner I will buy that plastic wedge tool. Let the fun begin.
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