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About JohnnyBlaze

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  • Location
    Harford County, MD
  • Cars
    2008 Scion xB, 1997 Nissan Hardbody, 1978 Datsun 620

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  1. JohnnyBlaze

    KA24E Donor Mileage Too High?

    I definitely plan on the clutch set, flywheel and various misc small things that will be a few/several hundred dollars. Not to mention the cooling and electric items. I’m really hoping to source the parts a little at a time and change things on the engine while it’s on a stand prior to doing the swap. I know I still have more to read and learn. This will be a project over several months to a year. I appreciate any and all feedback. I have done a jdm engine swap on an AE86 I had and replaced items prior to the install as well. That was a little more plug and play than this swap will be, but even with that I have seen where items can add up that you don’t think about. Thanks!
  2. JohnnyBlaze

    KA24E Donor Mileage Too High?

    Hopefully I can find a good donor for cheap. I’d rather not spend a ton of money on the swap, but I know it can get out of control thinking “well I should change this or that before I drop the motor in”. I think finding a 720 trans will not be possibly in my area. Then I just need to decide if I really want an E or DE. I guess the hardbody trans is better or stronger than the 240, but if I get that whole 89 240 swap should I just use both engine and trans from that? They did message me last night and said they found the ECU. I might go look at it since it’s only about 40mins from me. I’ll try to do a compression test and look over all the parts Mike suggested. If it all looks good then I’ll try to get it even cheaper than the $500 they are asking. Or should I hold out for a hardbody or DE? I know if I got a hardbody swap I’d want to get a 240 intake manifold and need 240 harness and ECU, so getting a 240 engine may just save me some work. I ultimately want a fun, reliable, decent powered truck, with suspension, wheels, and maybe some bolt on upgrades.
  3. JohnnyBlaze

    1978 620 Brake, Suspension, Engine, etc... Update/Upgrade?

    Awesome, thanks for the reply Farmer. Yes, unfortunately there is a ton of rust. I'm not sure the bed will be salvageable, but I'll see once I get it to my house and start going through it. I already bought the rocker panel patches from Tabco. These trucks are rare to find around me and this one came up as a parts truck. He had the title and it's a complete truck, so I made him an offer and took it off his hands for a few hundred bucks. I could have driven several hours and got one for close to $3k that still has rust and I'd dump more money making it the way I want. I was thinking this way I got it cheap and will basically rebuild it the way I want and will probably be around the same cost or cheaper...hopefully.
  4. I have been searching through here and google and not finding all the answers I need...Help my brain is melting from all the searching 😄. I just bought a 1978 620 5speed that has been sitting for years. This will be a project that may take quite some time, but I'm anxious to get start and look forward to learning and getting it road worthy. Hopefully I can find ways to save money and not have this project become a money pit 😏. I will be going through the whole truck since I'm sure most or all of the major parts need help. I already plan to get the truck glass blasted and will have rust areas fixed ( there are a lot) and do a cheap paint job. I plan to do a KA engine swap and have been learning all I can about that. I will most likely keep it rear drum brakes with new components and will replace or upgrade the front disks. I read that I can swap the D21 front brakes and get Belltech drop spindles since I do plan to lower the truck. Can I use the 2wd D21 front brake components or do they have to be 4wd like the post I read? There are usually a few 2wd hardbodies at my local parts yard and hope to source what I need from them. I also have Belltech 3" lowering leafs and was curious if I could put them on the 620? I believe someone on here did that and just redrilled the plates to bring them in line with the 620 axle...Is that correct? In short my question now is.. --Can I use 2wd Hardbody front brake parts to upgrade my factory disks? I will probably do drop spindles for a better ride being lowered which is why D21 brakes would be used. --What parts do I need to source from the hardbody? --Can I use 2wd Belltech lowering leafs on my 620? Redrill leaf mounting plate to line 620 axle up? --What shocks do I need for the above set up if I can do those upgrades? Thank you and sorry for the long post. I know I will have more questions throughout this journey. Hopefully I'm adding these pics correctly below..haha http:// http:// http:// http:// http://
  5. JohnnyBlaze

    KA24E Donor Mileage Too High?

    I did watch a video last night about using a battery, jumper cables, and a wire to crank the engine over for compression testing. I will probably do that...thanks. You are saying it will cost $3-$5k to do a KA swap in a 620 myself? I do plan to do the swap myself and from what I read should cost less than $2k. I was planning to source the engine swap mounts and Can/Am from members on here. I’d do a tune up and probably new timing chain before the motor goes in. If I understood correctly I believe I can use the whole 240 KA24E engine and tranny. Modify the oil pan or centerlink mod. Then trim the original 620 driveshaft shield a bit and it should bolt up. Obvious I’ll need fuel related items, but that seems to be the basic install. Correct me if I’m wrong.
  6. JohnnyBlaze

    KA24E Donor Mileage Too High?

    With the engine already being out I don’t think there is much chance of doing a compression check. I would definitely pull the cover, look at plugs, and oil. There are a couple performance shops not far from me that do swaps. I was thinking of going there and seeing if they have any KA’s they pulled out of 240’s that they would sell. I’m still undecided if I really want an E or DE. The DE looks nice under the hood, but like I said before...I might just get whatever I can find for the the best price and condition. I think the harder part with be finding a transmission. There are usually a few hardbodies in the junkyard by me, so I might have to pull the trans from one of those. The bad thing is I have no way of knowing the condition of those transmissions. The other trans options used for these swaps will be hard to find by me.
  7. JohnnyBlaze

    KA24E Donor Mileage Too High?

    Is 210,000 miles too high for KA24E to use for swap? I recently bought a 1978 620 that has been sitting for “7” years. I will need to do lots of rust repair as well as go through everything. I plan to take the L20 and 5 speed out and swap a KA. I wasn’t sure to do an E or De, but I’ve been reading a lot about the options and figure I’ll just get whatever I can find for the best price and mileage. There is an 89 KA24E that came from a 240sx 5 speed with 210,000 miles. It was pulled out for a swap and supposedly ran great with no issues. They are asking $500 for everything which doesn’t sound too bad. Sure I’d love to find a low mileage motor, but I feel these donor engines/cars and trucks are getting older and will most likely have higher miles. I’m really not in a rush as the truck needs a lot of work before I get to the engine, but that doesn’t keep me from looking for the swap parts. Any suggestions would be great. Thanks!
  8. JohnnyBlaze

    New to Ratsun/Datsun. Need 620 buying advice.

    Well I went to look at it and it wasn’t as bad as I thought it could be. Bonus is that it’s a 1978 with front disks and 5 speed. The kid had the wrong year listed. The engine is not locked up, the oil is clean, doors shut well, windows roll up and down easily, door cards and headliner clean, and it’s complete. It will need rockers and the bed may or may not be salvageable, but it seems like a great find. The story is the old farmer next door used it to haul stuff around the farm. He got too old to Farm and parked the truck. He died and the neighbor got the truck recently to flip it/part it out. The farmer might even be the original owner. I left a deposit and will pick it up ASAP.
  9. JohnnyBlaze

    New to Ratsun/Datsun. Need 620 buying advice.

    I have been looking all over the country and do see some on the west coast. I had a vehicle shipped from Florida a long time ago and the price wasn’t bad. I’m just concerned what it could cost now. It kinda sucks to have to pay close to $1,000 or more for shipping on a truck that I pay $3,000 or less for. I was hoping to be no more than $3k for a running truck initially. I know I’ll spend more money on mods down the road, but want to spread that out as I can. I agree that a 78 or 79 is the ideal years.
  10. JohnnyBlaze

    New to Ratsun/Datsun. Need 620 buying advice.

    A project is one thing, I’m just concerned for a money pit if I have to redo almost everything..lol. I am thinking If I could get it for $500 or less it may be worth having anyway and find one that is already running and driving. I only have 2 pics and I’m not sure how to upload them to here since I don’t have the url. I think I figured out how to upload the pics I have. http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/mm234/JMM92EG6/Ratsun/1977 Datsun 620 PA2.png http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/mm234/JMM92EG6/Ratsun/1977 Datsun 620 PA.png
  11. I've been a fan of Datsun since I was a kid and always wanted one. I decided I needed a small pickup for a back up vehicle, to haul stuff, and a toy to have some fun. I bought a 1997 Nissan Hardbody and planned to use that, but I decided I finally wanted to get a Datsun. I'm selling the hardbody to my dad and I've been searching for a 620. The East coast doesn't offer many options close to me. My question is should I avoid a potential major project? I am fairly mechanically inclined and typically do most work myself. I have no experience with a carbureted vehicle, do not weld, and have never rebuilt an engine. That being said, I'm going to look at a 1977 620 that has been sitting for 7 years, but "ran when parked" and is complete. The price is unknown as they told me to "make an offer". I said I will come look at it and discuss price then. Based on the pics there is definitely rust and I know that can be typical. They say the "frame looks solid, bed is rough, and the cab is salvageable with work". I don't plan it to be a show truck and don't care if it is on the ratty side, but I eventually want it to run, stop, and drive well. I've done research and have an idea of what areas to look for rot. I don't want to get a money pit because I could drive further and buy a running truck for a couple thousand dollars. Thanks for any advice. I would include 2 pictures, but I'm not sure how to add them.

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