Bastard_510

It’s done. I need to go up in idle jets. I’m at 25 degrees advanced right now. No knock yet. 0-65 in 5.5 seconds (3.54 gears) with a slow shift and rolling into the throttle. I’m happy with it.

test run

Tomorrow I’m pulling it apart. It only leaks at about 60-100% throttle...meaning when cylinder pressure is starting to reach max it’s pushing passed the gasket into a coolant hole not another cylinder. No air lock the air in the system is exhaust gas. I had the gasket made with a pattern. It’s good. I don’t like the idea that it didn’t need an o ring but what ever. I had two fucks tell me that and each time i should have ignored them and gone with my gut. If it was leaking or had burned through it would be burning coolant...plugs are black and the chamber is not clean so It has not burned through. I got word back from Cape Town. 4,500R or ~$300 for 2

I don’t have the surface finish for mls and i don’t really want it.

Close. It spins 1st and 2nd from a roll. I got too scared to grab third. But it blew the head gasket. Never got hot never went above 150. Got a nice geyser out my over flow on moderate to full throttle. No coolant is being burned. I wasn’t comfortable with the gasket manufacturers recommendations and i really should have trusted my gut. Anyways I’m talking to a company in Cape Town to get a different gasket. If that works I won’t have to cut the head for rings. I’ve never had a crib death like this but in the back of my mind i knew it was a possibility. im mad but the plan was to pull the engine anyways to install the new tensioner after break in. edit: i drove it about 40miles to the shop to block check it and it passed with no load on the engine. I need to tune for part throttle and set the floats a little better. I knew something was up when i was breaking it in and i couldnt purge the air out of the cooling system. WOT cause so much pressure in the cylinder it was able to leak into a coolant hole but I wouldn’t leak under vacuum and burn. pulling the head tomorrow. Max timing so far is 25 no ping

230psi cranking on all 4 60psi oil pressure cranking with plugs out More when I’m done.

No one is using stock parts here so 4,000fpm can go out the door along with honing small ends of stock rods with a wheel cylinder hone. i got a lot done today. I’ll be able to put the valve train together. I’m still missing the modified tensioner. I made a cross member for the ka trans since it sits 3” farther back. I need to make a set of plugs for the head oil gallery and it will be ready to drop in.

the 48dco sp has 42’s stock. That’s what my displacement and rpm called for. 8k? What in the hell is your piston speed? mines just a standard disk *with potter’s cam 😉

Just like when i recommended those fittings to you...you’re a few days late. I have a 11.5 lbs flywheel with a act street clutch 275ftlbs rating. Steve is an interesting guy. Did you do any math on the ECR or just winging it? Are you reving higher to make up for the larger Chokes or are you choking the 50’s down? bring it Canuck :) The engine wasn’t put together with nitrous in mind so no. if i get enough done tomorrow I’ll be able to put the engine in this weekend and have the drive shaft by next Thursday.

I agreed as soon as i saw it. I’m not scared? 10:1 vs 12:1 i see a pretty big advantage. new problem: the tensioner is max out so I’m having a new slide arm made.

Troy saw my comment on a guys post asking about specs for his 290 duration cam. I told the guy 290 most likely mean duration and it would be ok to run on a 11.5-12:1 engine on pump gas as it was listed. A guy named Steven argued it was too small of a cam for pump gas. Troy got involved after i started my lz23 has a 284 duration cam and is 12:1. Troy said he wants to dyno both. So i agreed to the bet thinking it was going to be a friendly thing. He wants a show With a local car club at the dyno session watching. so it’s not a secret. I only changed my mind about it after the bragging and the “I’ve been doing datsuns for 20 years” statement. I corrected him on a comment he made and he went off. That’s how. It’s a rebello 2360

fixes: slotting the manifold holes so the ports line up right and cutting the tab between the carbs because it was too long. thank you crushed? I really dont care to be honest with you. troy challenged me. im about half troy's age. i did all the work for my engine (honing valve guides, porting, measuring, boring and honing cylinders, cutting out-installing-and cutting new valve seats, crack repair, decking....). what did troy do for his? so i think its fair to say my engine is really going against rebello. rebello is three...maybe even 4 times my age so ill respect it if i come up short in power. im only doing this to see how much power my engine makes...not to give someone an ego boost. you all are welcome to come and watch when its ready. ill blow mine up if i have to.

I’ve driven with mine so long i forgot that bog off idle. Having a single helps if you don’t have one already. Mine came as a kit for a l20 from Pierce manifolds. You’ll have to kinda double tap the throttle to get your rpm up to like 1500 awhile letting the clutch out...how hard is it? I’ve completed forgotten that i do it 😂

cut everything but the distributor adv. take the accelerator pump off the 32/36 the single nozzle. put it on the 38 and get rid of the twin jet. this will prevent a lot of driving problems from being too rich on acceleration. my l20 is just fine running a 38 i got 24mpg with a 4 speed. 22 now with a cam.if you have a problem setting up idle mixture get a jet kit and swap to a smaller idle jets. if you cant get to the back screw you can run it off 1 screw and close the other.