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seattle smitty

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About seattle smitty

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    Old, simple cars.

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  1. Any of you real gear-heads ever have and work on one of these? Pretty neat little cars IF, repeat, IF you fix the mechanical quirks that took these cars off the roads, and they seem to be all fixable for any rodder or restorer with some ability. I'm currently about to rebuild the K182 5-speed manual trans (the one with the 2/4WD transfer case) which got itself stuck in Reverse. If there are other owners, I've learned some things about Colt Vistas and am interested to hear anyone elses' tips, and the only decent Colt Vista websites are long-gone, so . . . .
  2. Darn, forgot to report what I found with rust scraping and mainly closer inspection. Again, this is an '81 720 with factory "moon roof," I guess it is. Anyway, it does have drains, four of them, one in each corner of the gutter, at the bottom. Factory welded-in sections of thinwall steel tubing, I'd guesstimate about 3/8" I.D., so about 9 or 10mm. I stuck a piece of vaccuum hose in the end of each one and blew into it to see that each drain was unobstructed. I never seem to have a helper handy, or I would've asked him/her to put an ear next to the bottom of each roof pillar to see if an
  3. I don't come here a lot, but whenever I do, I have a question, have no luck at all with the Search function, and worry that I'm annoying y'all with an old worn-out topic. So here's another. Heading home this afternoon, I passed a yard sale, stopped, backed up, parked. Some gal, with the usual gal-stuff, but she did have a nice set of four little-used Goodyear P225/60R-16 (I didn't catch the rating) for $80. I told her I'd think about it, but they looked good enough that I figured if I waited somebody else would grab 'em, so I took a chance and they came home with me . . . "the cha
  4. Thanks for the replies, but I'm still hoping someone will know about the corner drains (four?) for the gutter. are there actual rubber tubes going down inside the pillars, how long, how routed??
  5. . . . but that got me no hits in the Search function here. So what's the correct name for the openable and even removable glass panel in the top of the cab of my '81 720 King Cab?? This vehicle is a non-running and somewhat rusty old beater which I am slowly restoring to functionality. Previous owner had removed the (whatever-it-is), maybe it was leaking, and I want to put it back after clean-up and repair. I pulled away the molded rubber seal from the periphery of the glass, leaving remnants of a thin rubbery substance behind on the glass. What I want to know is the nature of this l
  6. I recently went through this. I had made a wedge copying a design from a big book that came out in the mid-'70s at the height of 240/260z-car and 510 racing (some of you have this book, with a color photo of a Brock Racing Enterprises 510 on a track somewhere). I found the wedge and discovered it was too thick to work on my Z-22. After some sawing and sanding, it turned out a little too thin because it never quite was stopped by the tensioner. But it worked fine, which indicates that the tensioner need not be rammed all the way in. Or maybe it just means that the old chain was stretched a
  7. Taxes, fees, tags, and plates just under $200 for a $200 vehicle??!! When I got my most recent beater for $250, I think all of that was about $90, IIRC . . . . Well, I guess I'll find out next week, including about the gift aspect. Thanks!
  8. I'm getting another temporary vehicle (very slowly working on a '81 720, which will probably be a keeper). This one is a 2005 Dodge Grand Caravan minivan, in fairly good shape. It would be a keeper if it wasn't so new, with efi and a computer, highly over-complicated, which I detest. But maybe it will hold up long enough for me to get the 720 going. The current owners are giving me the car (in trade for my having done a bunch of welding and re-wiring on their horse trailer. In trying to keep the cost of the title transfer down, how should they fill out the bill of sale? If they write z
  9. As a brute force method of getting the sleeve off, maybe unharmed, I'd run a drillbit through that big hole. That old sensor is no-good anyway, right? Then stick something like a line-up punch through the holes to rack on the sleeve, which you might hit with some heat, first. This oughta be easier on the sleeve than a Vise-Grip.
  10. Wayno, I experienced what you described with a '79 Econoline 150 "Trailer Special" van, 351, C-6, and a 9" with Traction Lock. Great for pulling a boat out of the water, but it wanted to swap ends on snow. But I attributed that to all the weight of a cast iron V-8 and dual batteries in the front, and not much load in back. My interest in limited slip for the 720 comes from years ago when I did some welding for a little logging crew out in the woods (different vehicle), and had to be towed up the "road" and into camp with a dozer. But I suppose that stuff is long behind me. So I'll settle fo
  11. Couldn't determine this with a search. Was/is there a limited-slip option that could be applied to my early ('81) 720? Also, in reading the '81 owners manual, I see that besides the standard pickup, the long box, and the King Cab (mine), there were one or two "Heavy-Duty" versions in that year. Was that a matter only of springs and shocks, or was there more to it? I'm going over to work on my truck today and will look for model designation letters/numbers. This poor little neglected machine is eventually going to be my shop truck, with flatbed and side-boxes. And semi-massive-looking
  12. (Found nothing in searching this, but could have missed it) Have any of the admins considered making a sticky topic for guys to recommend good machine shops, alignment shops, body/paint shops, transmission shops, etc., etc. in their areas? My machinist has moved away, and when I get to building a new engine for my 720 pickup, or getting the front end aligned, this sort of info would be helpful. Maybe some have found shops that are particularly knowledgeable on old Datsun/Nissans. What I personally would look for is shops in the greater Seattle-Tacoma area, but members from anywhere could
  13. A few weeks ago I posted some comments to a member's thread in which he expressed dismay at the ugly welds he found on the chassis of his 720 pickup. He said he felt inclined to grind out and re-do the welds before painting the chassis. Some good opinions pro and mostly con followed. The O.P. and one other member currently fixing up their 720s, each describing himself as unskilled at welding, mused about getting a pal or relative with welding skills to come over and re-do the globby factory welds, one of them indicating he might buy a welding machine for this and other tasks. I have been
  14. I feel your pain, Kaw. There is no excuse for that level of welding in a professional setting, whether they were applied manually or by robotics. It says something when you see some of the flawless beads on Japanese motorcycle frames, WHERE THEY SHOW, and then you look at the bird-poop welds under a chassis where a customer will never see them. If you didn't read that link I posted, you might take a look just to see the opinion of an expert who has seen corporate attitudes about fixing bad welds that could prove be dangerous to customers, including some that already have. Unlike the big co
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