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EWD

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About EWD

  • Rank
    Newbie

Profile Information

  • Location
    U.S.A.
  • Cars
    1972 510 Sedan, 1969 510 Coupe
  • Interests
    Design, Fabrication, Being comfy
  1. I do have V-bands on all exhaust pieces and the stock pulley equipped. I reached out to my friend who helped a lot with the swap and when I mentioned the vibrations and that I was thinking of swapping the transmission mount he said I should recheck the drive shaft. He said that the guy who modded it to fit, balanced it “as best he could”... Well that certainly made me rethink things. I took the drive shaft to a shop that specializes in these sort of things today and they immediately said that the original u-joints on it were likely the problem. Both ends seem to get hung up for a second while going through their range of motion. They remade the whole drive shaft with some beefier u-joints ($260). I took it out for a test drive right after reinstallation and PRESTO! No more vibrations in any RPM range or steady driving. Quieted the car down considerably. Thank you Paradime and Datzenmike for your input.
  2. Exhaust has rubber hangers at the mid pipe/resonator and at the muffler so should be good there. Do you know of any prefabbed rubber transmission mounts for this application? I honestly don’t know what other rubber mounts can be used. Searches seem to only lead to more polyurethane mounts, mustache bar included. If I can get away with just doing the transmission mount I would be stoked.
  3. Alright here is the breakdown, I am running an SR20DET on my 72 510. Current HP is around 250 and will be tuning up to 275-300 in the near future with no plans to go higher after that. Comfortable cruising is the name of the game here and currently vibration is my biggest frustration. The vibrations do not occur at idle or while stopped and revving in neutral. No vibrations under hard acceleration or deceleration. Vibrations only occur when holding the accelerator to maintain a constant speed. After what I’ve done to try to reduce the vibrations, research is pointing me to the motor and transmission mounts. -Current motor mounts are newish Datsun 620 mounts. The motor will shift almost about 3/4” under acceleration (seem almost too flexible) -Current transmission mount bushing is a Energy Suspensison Polyurethane block -Just replaced original mustache bar bushings with polyurethane bushings from Energy Suspension -CV Axles installed to replace U-Joint axles -Exhaust recently checked and does not rub on any parts of the frame or body -All four wheels perfectly balanced and tires are new -Drive shaft balanced Looking for opinions/experiences with going poly for both motor and tranny mounts or rubber for both. I feel rubber is the way to go for what I want however the flex/shift from the motor upon load has me concerned for transmission and drive shaft longevity. Does anyone have experience with the McKinney rubber mounts? Maybe they are stiffer than the 620s? I don’t see many other pre-made options out there and I am not opposed to making my own rubber tranny mount. Thoughts?
  4. EWD

    510 LED Headlights & Grille swap

    Lighting is a quite a bit brighter than stock lights. I’ll post a shot of it tomorrow night, ideally with high beams working.
  5. Went supersonic and swapped the old headlights for some Harley Davidson Sportster LEDs, inners/high beams with black chrome housing (not hooked up yet). Wasn’t sure if I’d like them but pretty happy with the outcome. Direct plug in from previous lights. I will mention that both of the black chrome lights had a plastic piece inside the light that had fallen away from it’s mount. The company/seller I bought them from replaced them immediately. Before and after below. They ran $60 a piece.
  6. I used spray on bed liner on my first 510 interior and it quieted the cabin down considerably and even more so once the carpet and the shifter/tranny tunnel cover (2003 Mitsu Lancer) was put back in. The spray also kept the carpet in place as the spray liner was a bit “tacky” afterwards. On my current 510 I used 80ml Rattle Trap sound deadening mat throughout the entire car. Floor, inside the doors, against the firewall, under the rear seat and behind the rear seat back against the trunk. The only spots I did not do were the roof and trunk and I have to say it is still pretty loud although I’ve got some vibrations coming from the exhaust rubbing on the rear cross member that has not been addressed yet and I’m running an SR20DET instead of the stock L16 (minor detail:). Having decent weatherstrip seals around the doors help out a lot as do newer felt strips for the windows so those are not rattling around over every bump. I just put carpet in tonight so hopefully when I take it out tomorrow it may be little quieter.
  7. EWD

    Brakes locking up. Need Help!!

    Thank you for this! I read this last night and couldn’t wait to make some adjustments. I had the same issue and thought it had to do with my hydraulic hand brake or the 1” M/C I installed. After adjusting the rod one direction the brakes started seizing after 2 minutes of driving. Went the other way with it (as far as it would go toward the driver seat) and have had no more issues. This is a HUGE win for me and my 4 door.
  8. EWD

    Hood/Cowl Clearance issues

    I’ve pulled it as far forward as it will currently go.
  9. EWD

    Hood/Cowl Clearance issues

    That makes sense. Didn’t think about the hinge arm moving down instead of hood sitting up higher. I’ll try and add a centimeter on each of the four hood mounts forward to get the hood up a little further. They are already bolted down as far forward as they will go currently. I’ve got rubber bumpers but did not know about the hood having a sealer strip as well. Have had three 510s and never had a hood sealer on any of them, though I’ve never purchased one that was in decent shape! 😂 Great info! Thank you
  10. Can anyone point me in the direction on how to adjust my hood so that the rear-center of the hood does not pinch on the cowl when raising the hood? I have two 510s and both do this to the point where I have to lightly pry the hood forward while lifting up to clear the cowl. I’ve tried the following: 1. Moved hood latch left and right 2. Added washers/spacers between hood and mounting arms to raise up hood 3. Massaged cowl farther back towards windshield Are the hood mounting arms adjustable as well?
  11. She asked me where the “oh shit handle” was. I handed her the door handle that we would use to open up both driver and passenger doors from the inside... ”Best I’ve got for now.” Other than the quick 10 minute drive from my friend’s shop this would be the third and longest drive I had taken my 8 year project car out on. It would also be the first time I would have a passenger in it with me. The motor begged to be run hard, the chassis whimpered at the thought, and the brakes seemed indifferent to any task put upon them. Inside the cabin it was hot, loud, and smelly. The various leaks from the pieced together exhaust would fill the cabin at stops with carbon monoxide and even quite a bit while driving. A roll of duck tape would assist with the various holes that would seep fumes in through the floor but it would not prevent all which would cause my eyes to burn. In addition the exhaust piping would send vibrations throughout the entire car while it rattled on the rear cross member. It had been quite awhile since I had driven a “quick” vehicle, and even longer since I had driven one that did not have modern creature comforts. At first, 70mph in this tiny box felt like it was 100mph...until a Honda Odyssey blew by me (respect to that family van). 70-80mph required a lot of concentration for the freeways of Southern California. Bumps, grooves, pot holes OH MY! One could feel every piece of the road through this 72 510 Sedan with a moderately powered SR20DET. There was no play in the steering and it took the better part of 30 minutes to relieve my white knuckle grip in favor of a light handed approach to navigating Interstate 5 (I-5) North. My new wife was in for it, she had only heard of this project. It had already been six years into the slow build when we started dating. Unlike other partner prospects, she never told me to abandon it. She did raise a fuss when I picked up a 69 coupe shell on a whim. Who could blame her? At first she seemed excited to see the car mobile as she had only seen it in photos. This was soon replaced by uneasiness and shortly after, legitimate fear. She had a vice grip on the dash and door for our 60 mile round trip testing to Carlsbad from San Diego. Nobody would blame her. Even my confidence was waning underneath the joy of being able to drive something I had waited so long for. One day later... After I sent my wife safely on a flight back home my friends and I made some adjustments to the setup and then made a quick stop at Harbor Freight. If I were to successfully make the 370 mile trip home in this tin can I was going to need some emergency tools. - 1.5 ton lightning jack - metric socket set - screw driver set - work gloves - fire extinguisher - AAA Premier membership In addition, one of my friends would follow behind me for the first 100 miles. We initially thought that the aftermarket fuel gauge was working properly, however after about 70 miles the needle had stayed in the same spot as when we had left (2/3 full). We stopped for fuel in the middle of nowhere which meant $4.50 a gallon for 91 octane. My custom tank is 15 gallons and it took 14 gallons...Good thing we stopped. Typical of all things, the moment my friend turned around to head back home the brakes began to seize up on my 280zx brake swap while cruising back to the freeway. We had experienced this before so I pulled off and parked for a little bit to see if the situation would subside. Thankfully it did and did not return. The local temperature was 99 degrees so I am sure that didn’t help matters. 60 Miles later I stopped for a few more gallons of fuel so as not to take any chances. Upon making a left hand U-turn back to the freeway my driver side stub axle decided to pop out. We had machined the grooves in the stock 510 stub axles so they would clip into the WRX R160 differential however the driver side didn’t ever click in like the passenger side did. This was a gamble I decided I would make when I set out. It took me a few minutes to figure out why I had zero gears all of a sudden but after a quick deduction I put my new lightning jack to use and pushed the axle back into the diff. I was surprised to see that even though the stub axle had only come out maybe a centimeter, not completely, that I had lost all power to the rear wheels. I’m no mechanic, rather an enthusiast, but I thought even if I had one axle in I would be able to get power to one of the wheels. Lesson learned. The axle would come out 3 more times before I made it home. Once while on a long right hand turn at 65mph, twice more at 75mph on long straightaways. The lightning jack was well worth it as I could jump out and get it back in the diff within 2 minutes. However a few other things would falter along the way. The driver side headlight burnt out, rather the points of contact melted. The turn signals would only work intermittently. My GPS speedometer stopped working for half of the journey. I suspected this might happen in the middle of the desert so close to Mexico, similar to my cell phone service. Perserverance - steadfastness in doing something despite difficulty or delay in achieving success. I made it home and smelled like a catalytic converter. I had put over 400 miles on a questionably road worthy car in 48 hours and got to experience the rush of what it is like to drive/ride an unrelenting missle. My smile is as big as I thought it would be and I am greatful that I made the trip unscathed. My project is far from finished, and even further from fully experienced. This is ONE of my Datsun Stories. Eight years I waited I’m not the first, not the last Picture me rolling
  12. EWD

    Restomodair A/C?

    I’m running a SR20DET in my 510 and have an A/C condenser mounted as well as the pulley. I’m not planning on using the stock controls or blower. Does anyone have any experience using products from https://www.restomodair.com/product-category/custom-a-c-systems/ ? If not them, any other recommendations?
  13. Seven+ years and counting. Picked it up after realizing my previous 72 sedan wasn’t in good enough shape to rebuild. I’ve had quite a few people who were close to me say it would never run and I can’t say I blame them, but I stuck with it. Took it as far as I could within my very limited skill set and budget before reaching out to friends who knew better than I. Got to drive it for the first time ever a couple months back for a quick run around the block. Brakes barely worked but have since been fixed. It is very close to becoming road worthy. Joining up with Ratsun to eventually move a lot of spare parts out of the house. Nothing really groundbreaking in the build, mistakes made and corrected along the way. It’s mine and I apologize for nothing. Ultimate goal is to have a fun driving, relatively quick, comfortable ride, with working A/C. Maybe still a month out before it’s a daily driver. All new wiring throughout. Parts from Futo-Fab, Techno Toy, Ermish etc. Currently putting out about 240HP and 220 torque (recent dyno with no tune). More to come. Thanks
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