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OlDatZMan

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Everything posted by OlDatZMan

  1. Time Left: 6 days and 13 hours

    • FOR SALE
    • USED

    One bad cyl, Z24 engine, body fair, 5 spd, 4wd, I gave up on it, need it gone and don't want it to go to the crusher, pics on request, best offer over junk price, needs to be trailered.

    NO VALUE SPECIFIED

    Clinton, Washington - US

  2. I had to replace my pwr steering idler bearing and finding a x-ref from OEM was hard. Eventually found this: OD 3.1875”, ID 0.46875” Bearing: NTN 6203LUX8 NTN 6203LUX8 replacement is the 6203LLB NTN search NTN# via main page search, then on the next page search by competitor part number, listing 3: Note the different max rpm of bearings of the same size--the idler spins faster than crank speed 6203ZZ, 6203LLB, and 6203LLU, all the same dimensions and load capacities 6203ZZ is no seal, double shielded 6203LLB is double sealed nitrile rubber, no
  3. OlDatZMan

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    OK Folks I’ve thought about this a lot and it’s time to cut my losses. The truck is worth fixing but the work involved would stretch my capabilities not to mention insult my comfort at my age so I’ve posted it in Classifieds. If I was 10 or 15 years younger, or this was 2WD I’d push on, but I’m not and it isn’t. So it goes. History of the truck is in the thread above which is more info than you’d get in from a craigslist seller. Head and intake/carb are on the engine but exh manifold and exhaust needs bolted on. One cylinder is low and needs honed and rings but the other cyls are good so I don
  4. OlDatZMan

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    Well like I said, I have done hone and rings once before, but the difference is then it was a RWD Zcar more like Mike's slant six (great engine), but now its a 4WD. The difference is that big lump under the pan. Yes I had thought about laying some impermeable film down over the crank---saran wrap, tarp, visquine, anything to help, maybe two layers, followed by a washdown after honing. One other thing I thought of that might help someone else is to wipe down parts within reach of ricocheting cutting particles with chainsaw bar oil, or maybe K&N air filter oil, the really sticky stuff, thoug
  5. OlDatZMan

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    Simple question: Has anyone honed cylinders and installed new rings in a Z24 4wd 720 with the engine in the truck?
  6. OlDatZMan

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    Yeah Charlie you're right. It also immediately raises the question of whether to pull the engine which is another expansion of shop area needed, and more to put back together. I was trying to convince myself that since the other cylinders are ok now I would try to do #2 only, and that it might be possible to do it while the engine is in the truck. I have little interest in rebuilding the entire engine for cost or time needed; the truck is barely worth it, it will only be a local truck for me, and since I have another PU my truck need is not that pressing. Where do you stop when the engine is o
  7. OlDatZMan

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    Not much of an update. A week ago I bolted on and torqued the supposedly fresh head with 4 new intake valves and 4 old lapped exh valves using yet another new head gasket, and the EZ LOK repaired rocker bolt hole. After getting the cam timing wrong and making a couple other mistakes I was too embarrassed to publicly admit at the time, I corrected the cam timing to the point of being able to do a compression check. Compression on the formerly good cylinders was unchanged. Compression on the formerly low #2 cylinder was low and unchanged, an unwelcomed surprise that whacked my confidence. That
  8. OlDatZMan

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    No answer yet to my question so I'll rephrase: Shouldn't I be able to clearly sense compression on each cylinder when turning over the crank on this Z24 using a 1/2 ratchet even if the ratchet action isn't very fast? I know I certainly can feel compression when hand cranking my 51 Farmall Super A and it's only a 113CID 4 cylinder with 6:1 compression. I'll try just turning the crank pulley by hand which will make it easier to feel resistance. Just answered my own question: I can't turn the engine over by hand gripping the crank pulley. So I guess it does have compression and it's time to assem
  9. OlDatZMan

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    That's the mistake I made last week. I left out some things this post; didn't want it to be too long. Rockers but 4 only the #1 valve lash is set. ******* Edit/add: I can't say that I have zero compression. I'm turning it over with a 1/2" ratchet on the crank which admittedly is not fast, but there doesn't seem to be much resistance, even thinking about a 5hp mower motor. I set the valves on the other 3 cylinders just now so all 4 should be talking to me especially since before all this recent work I had over 170 on a compression test (6 revolutions using the starter) on 1, 2, and 4.
  10. OlDatZMan

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    7-11-18, last three days: EZ LOK threaded insert installed to repair pulled threads on the intake side at the center rocker mount boss with the oil port. Head back on with new gasket and cam sprocket back on. Crank turns easily, no obstructions. @ crank mark TDC, #1 and #4 pistons at TDC line on cam boss just to right of rocker post casting line #1 valve lobes at 4:00 & 8:00 distributor rotor at ~ 7:00 from driver’s fender, ie pointing to #1 intake plug distributor wire No compression on #1 either with finger in the hole or spark plug snugged--haven't
  11. OlDatZMan

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    Forum slow today. Condolences to admins trying to troubleshoot. This reply didn't take, trying again: RE using a longer bolt to reach remaining good threads in head: Hole depth in head: 1 3/8" (maybe not threaded to the bottom) Minus 1.4" locate bush stickout = 1 1/8" max hole depth Bolt length: 3" from cap face Upper cam bearing block height to cap screw surface: 2.250" 3" - 2.250 = 3/4" bolt threads max available, also meaning all hole threads at max bolt depth are failed 1 3/8 hole depth + 2.250 upper cam block = 3 5/8" max depth for new bolt (if hole threaded to bottom) 1 1/8" m
  12. OlDatZMan

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    I haven't measured the hole depth yet (I will now) but know the bolt went into the threads quite a ways, 6 or 8 turns. The OEM bolt is also long, 3". Finding a longer one would be harder than going to the local hardware store. Keeping the alignment bush means a new bush with an ID larger than the insert OD, meaning an even bigger hole and less material remaining for the insert. Also means finding a bigger bush and drilling the lower cam bearing block to match. One might possibly find a bush about the dia of the insert, chamfer the inside of one end, slice it down to a ring maybe 1/16" tall
  13. I probably read Yeager's book 10 times. It's a great read about someone who could fly the pants off of anything he got into. Yes, he wouldn't quit, but he also had a number of traits including great eyesight, a feel for the air and the plane, and an unusual ability to grok mechanical systems that others didn't have. But I quit re-reading him when he ridiculed the Voyager flight. Dick Rutan probably was not Yeager class, but the Voyager book's description of the Voyager's flying qualities combined with the days involved and weather made that a huge achievement. The best other flying books I
  14. Followup from Chesterton: "When calculating torque or referencing torque values from a chart it’s not uncommon that the default value being used of a dry nut factor is .2. This value .2 is based on using new clean hardware bolts/studs & nuts. The 725 Anti-Seize uses a .18 k factor for the dry nut factor. You can either re-calculated the torque value using the .18 factor or just reduce the torque value by 10%. The best benefit about using anti-seizes with lower k nut factors that it helps you achieve the required load at a lower torque. Which in turn speeds up/shortens the installa
  15. OlDatZMan

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    Thanks Charlie and Crash. For the present I'm pushing on to see whether I'm headed for a reasonable repair time and cost, or down a rabbit hole. It's nice to see there are more choices than Heli. For any insert option I would need to remove the rocker bolt hole cam bearing locate bushing which would delete the locating benefit Nissan thought it needed. Is that acceptable? I don't see an easy or even reasonable way to install an insert and retain the locate bush. There's not much room on the top of the cam block mount tower. Drilling out for a threaded insert reduces the material needed to
  16. OlDatZMan

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    >(the half moon) It's got to be soft enough to crush in order to seal as a valve cover gasket. The new one I put in was a tad taller and hard enough and resisted crushing enough that I had a small oil leak around it and wished I had put back in the old one rather than a new one. That is, before I dropped it down the hole. >Well is the cam timed properly? TDC should see both valves on #1 closed. Are they? Cam only has to be off about two teeth 18 degrees to have a valve not closed at TDC. Yes it was heartening that both #1 valves were closed at TDC, and timing was off/advanced
  17. OlDatZMan

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    I'm making this post out of a sense of reporting duty, with the risk it may harm my pristine integrity........... I had mused on the possible "urethane" composition of the little half moon, and having put in urethane suspension bushings I knew that urethane is oft chosen because of its resistance to pressure and fragmenting. Using a hammer or other blunt instrument to break up a chunk of rubber or urethane questions the choice of tool. Never the less having flipped the rockers over yesterday to allow the crank and cam to rotate while preventing any cam valve movement, I went out this AM to
  18. OlDatZMan

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    Honestly Charlie this was a cheap truck that has 200k miles, unknown maintenance, and has been popped slightly in the driver's side so the door doesn't close as it should. I got it for my son but I don't think he wants it. Above all, it is much more complex to work on than a 2wd truck which is the opposite of what I want. I like 4wd but they can't walk on water. Best thing about this is having the low side of the transfer case so you can go really slow. I have a lot of miles including 18 wheelers and autocross (not with a semi:-) and can drive most places in 2wd that most people think they nee
  19. OlDatZMan

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    Ok I just now posted what I thought was a big step fwd, but it wasn't, so I deleted it. That's good for you: it was long. The problem has advanced a lot since my last post but all that has happened isn't worth mentioning yet. What I thought was a valve/piston interference is not so, but the problem does seem to be that the missing half moon seal is jammed somewhere and not allowing the crank to move, or at least not with the force I'm willing to put on it. If the jam happens to be under a crank counterweight (or lowest part of the rotating crank assembly), as I just now realize it might be bec
  20. I couldn't get on all Sunday, and it reminded me of all the extremely useful and interesting forums I have been on over the years which one fine day just disappeared forever. Tens of thousands of people actually relied on those forums to keep their lives moving by accessing information corporations either did not know, or if they knew did not want to give out. Part numbers and cross references would be just one. No matter what you'd like to think, the internet is not a reliable archive. Like any body of information you need backup in case a server implodes, some overworked forum volunteer miss
  21. I had 16" Centerline oval hole mags with 225/50-16 Yoko 008's on them on my last 72Z. Those where the widest tires I could get at the time. I think they were 7" rims and I don't know the offset. I used wheel spacers, had clearance but not much to springs and to fender rims, but I later rolled up the inner fender lips about 45 degrees for more fender clearance. I probably had aftermarket springs on by then and they may have been a little shorter than OEM, but the clearance issues were to inside to springs and outside to fenders. I don't know anything about 17" wheels. I still have the Centerlin
  22. Wow, that's why Ratsun is terrific. Total elapsed time from question to answer: 10 minutes Thanks Mike.
  23. Does anyone know the Z24 valve timing for int and exh, ie Open, Closed,BTDC, ATDC, BBDC? All I find is 'count links'. I want degrees. Thanks.
  24. Mike, I didn't say the turbo bolts failed at high temp, I said they were easy to get off with nickel AS, when without it they weren't. The turbo and its bolted connect to the exh manifold ran cherry red, hard to miss at night with the thing sticking up through the hood. The copper I used first was probably better than a kick in the teeth, but it wasn't as good at allowing bolts/nuts to come apart when they had corroded for even a short time, due, as you say, to heat accelerated corrosion. That's especially welcome if they are not in a handy location. I wasn't shilling for Chesterton. That can
  25. I searched but didn't find anything on Ratsun about anti-seize so here goes. I've used anti-seize (AS) since 1975 when I turboed a German 2.0 Ford in a Blakely Bantam and was taking the turbo on and off regularly (because it wouldn't fit under the hood and the painted hood was better looking than the one with the hole in it). Copper based didn't work, nickel based did. That was in Iowa where rust corrosion was bad, so I also used it on suspensions and anything that got hot. I've used Chesterton nickel based now for nearly 40 years on just about all bolts and nuts I wanted to be able to get of
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