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Jwalth02

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  • Content Count

    33
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About Jwalth02

  • Rank
    Newbie
  • Birthday 04/06/1987

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Rock Springs WY
  • Cars
    2013 Ram 2500 diesel, 1989 Chevy suburban, 1984 Nissan 720, 1989 Ford Ranger, Several dirtbikes
  • Interests
    Turning wrenches, camping, fishing, anything that keeps my hands busy.
  • Occupation
    Underground Maintennance Foreman
  1. Thank you OlDatZMan, that sounds pretty clean cut. And the BCDD was in Mike's last comment on the previous page I don't know what it stands for.
  2. Sorry, but BCDD? I'm going to pull the carb off again and clean one more time when I get a chance. Again on the compression does it matter which side I use intake plug or exhaust? And would my 82 book have close enough pressures listed for it?
  3. I have not been able to mess with the timing as of yet due to the fact that I cannot see the timing marks anywhere, and can't get my hands on a timing light. I'm about to the point of marking the current spot and just turning it to see what happens. Just a review: Truck ran fine until I lost the stock fuel pump and then sat for about 5 years. Installed new Facet fuel pump and pumped all the old fuel out of the tank with it. Changed fuel filter that threads into the pump and filled tank with fresh fuel with Seafoam mixed in. Changed all plugs with NGK replacements, Distributor cap a
  4. Sorry bud I'm not trying to take it out on you just extremely frustrated with this thing. I will try to get a compression test done soon, can this be accomplished on the exhaust side as the plugs are easier to get to or does it need to be done on the intake side? Also what pressure should I be seeing? Also I didn't mention when it starts sputtering the fuel pressure stays constant and the level in the bowl stays solid. Lastly on the carb I know we've talked about the cut-off solenoid supplying fuel to the Idle mix screw, where does the solenoid get fuel from? Port in the bowl? M
  5. Mike, again I really appreciate your help on this, but we have been through all of these steps already. I have adjusted the idle mix screw and the speed screw so many times they should be wore out. That is what has gotten me to this point. As stated in the rest of this whole thread I have made lots of progress as it would not run at all before. I have triple checked the wiring for the spark plugs, both coils are firing, and the valve lash has been set. I have the idle (when it runs) sounding good but I cannot tell you the RPM's as the tach does not work. Remember, the truck ran fine b
  6. Well I feel like I am beating a dead horse here... I finally had the chance to put a regulator on, the gauge bounces between 4-5 psi while running so I am calling that pretty close. I adjusted the float again and got the fuel to hold steady in the dot in the sight glass. Idle sounds good while the choke is active, but as soon as it warms up and opens all the way it sounds like it is sucking air through the secondary and goes to sputtering and then either lopes, or dies. Any last suggestions? Or is there someone out there that wants to take it off my hands...
  7. This is the best I've ever gotten it to idle, when it first starts it idles normal but then goes to this lope... WTF? It does it with the air cleaner on or off, and I have checked all the vacuum lines three times, no leaks and no sputter with the carb. The only way to clear it is adjust idle speed past where the idle mix screw makes any difference. It still drives good kinda sputters if I goose the throttle but if I ease into it it's fine. Should I even worry about it?
  8. So tomorrow I have to pull the carb off again. After checking all of my vacuum lines I got out the carb cleaner and started spraying. On the back side towards the EGR it is sucking air. This might be my issue.
  9. Ok I will look into a regulator, however I did get it to stop over fueling by blowing out the return... Now it idles great got it all adjusted and back together and BAM. Died. Fuel level is still correct, not overflowing anymore just quit.
  10. Well it is not the stock pump, it is the aftermarket facet pump that says 7-9 Pai and I don't know if that is too much or not. And it's got two new filters, the one on the new pump and one in line just before the carb. I just got done pulling the needle seat and cleaned it out, blew out the return line to tank and the line to where it T's, and it's still over filling. I'm gonna give the needle one more shot otherwise check actual fuel pressure.
  11. Well hello again! I know it's been a while but I wanted to post an update in case it might help in the future. I finally got around to working on the truck again. Decided to bite the bullet and pulled the carb (wasn't nearly as bad as I thought it would be) I discovered on the smaller barrel (if that's what you call it) there is a oval channel on the side partially covered by the butterfly and when I adjust the idle speed screw you can see more. LIGHTBULB! This must be where it gets it's air for the idle? Well it was full of gunk. I cleaned it out and the four ports next to it
  12. Well guys, I really appreciate all the help and input you have given me. I have the idle running a little smoother but still a little choppy. I have had it on the road once and had no issues, so I think I'm going to run it as is until I decide whether or not to upgrade. Thanks again!
  13. The highest year I see on that site for a 720 is an 82 with the z22 it says. Should I just call them?
  14. Where is the best kit?
  15. Umm hard to tell exactly like I've said a couple times without a working tach... Right now it's as good as I can get it, just sounds kinda rough but at least it's running.
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