Melkor

Figured that was the case even if they had the same(ish) engine. Haven't yet bothered to put a pressure gauge on it, but I suppose that's another avenue to try and diagnose this issue, or any other fuel-related issues. I'd honestly give it good odds on both being if not completely bad, then pretty trashed at this point. From what I've heard modern gas is hell on the seals/o-rings due to the ethanol, and I have no idea when the last time they were changed out/cleaned/repaired was. Haven't even swapped out one of the old injectors with the one I managed to get my hands on. Was really waiting till I had a second so I could do that and then send the old ones out to be rebuilt. May just have to swap out one, have that one rebuilt, and then do the same with the other. Not cheap or quick, but when needs must I suppose...

So I'm 99% sure my fuel injectors are at least partly the cause of my 720 losing all power when going uphill considering it's basically one of the last options left to check/replace. The problem is that while I managed to snag one new injector off of Ebay in a stroke of absurd luck, I cannot for the life of me find a second. Is it possible to use the D21's injectors? I'm aware they both have the Z24i engine and have a few swap-able parts, but other than that...no idea about cross-compatibility as far as this is concerned. Or if someone has an idea of where to find one/wants to sell one that'd be great. Failing that would it be possible to convert it to use a carburetor using this kit, or would that simply be more trouble than it's worth at the end of the day? Are the repair kits floating around on Amazon/RockAuto worth buying if all else fails?

Right, well I thought I had solved the fuel check valve at least, but apparently not. The one I ordered was too big to fit the lines. Now, there are a few listed on Ebay, but I'd rather not shell over 70+ dollars. Anyone know the actual size on this? I'm guessing 1/4 or 5/16, but I'd like to double check before buying again.

Looks like I probably misread something, because upon disassembling my spare cluster it seems that the 720 version is a lot simpler, since there are no bulbs tied to the speedo/tach themselves. Just plug and play the whole way through. Sure does make things a lot simpler.

So, finally got tired of not being able to see half my stuff at night, particularly the speedometer. Anyone know what kind of bulbs are required for a 720 gauge cluster? Digging out some of the (apparently original) Toshiba bulbs lists the larger as 158, and the smaller as 74, while I've heard the 158 is superseded by 194, but I'd like to double check just to be sure, as well as get some recommendations on any particular style of LED that might work well with the cluster. No idea about the lights that are apparently behind the speedo/tach however.

So upon further searching and comparing with the Z24i service manual, the pressure does have to be 14 psi, it appears the others talking about 45 psi were referring to the Z motors in the D21. Found this on the Holley website and it appears to be right for the pressure I need, but does the Z24i use 3/8" NPT or 6AN? And the valve above the tank that some people I know suggested I delete is in fact the fuel check valve/rollover valve, and after scouring the internet again I found some that might be compatible, but...well, same question as above really. 3/8" or some other AN measurement?

Well yes, I wasn't talking about deleting the FPR, just the rollover valve/thing that keeps gas from spilling if you flip over/whatever you want to call it. As for the link, I've already looked at that one and it's for a different engine, mine is the Z24i. Thanks though, didn't expect a response so quickly.

So I've been looking around for a new fuel injector pressure regulator for my truck, and Holley seems to be the brand most people recommend... But. I've read different things when it comes to the PSI, with some people saying it should be 14 psi (which the manual suggests) and others say that since it's fuel injected it needs 45 psi. There's also a load of different Holley regulators in general, and I'm having a bit of trouble finding which one would actually fit the truck... I'm also having trouble finding what appears to be the roll over valve(?) everywhere I usually buy parts, and mine either needs to be replaced or deleted entirely at this point since according to several people who've apparently had this happen to them it's what's been killing my speed every time I go uphill. Nissan discontinued it just like everything else, and no one else seems to sell one that fits my truck so...should I just go with their advice and delete it at this point? Any advice would be appreciated. Edit: Any before I forget a new cover to go over the lever that shifts the truck from 2 wheel drive to 4 high/Neutral/4 low, since none of the places I usually buy from have that either, and mine is pretty trashed/lets in freezing cold air during winter.

Yep, had that problem when trying to find break shoes/drums, must've ordered them two times before taking extremely careful measurements of the old ones and scouring RockAuto for ones that would fit, 2wd/Rwd designation be damned. Auto parts are rather frustrating to order honestly, since there's no telling if said part will actually fit or not until it arrives. Which is why I'm just going to pay the guy working on it at the moment to weld/cut it into the proper shape, rather than play the guessing game on if this or this is the right pipe for my truck, because despite the label of being for 2wd or 4wd I've found that said label is...less than reliable. Might be because of my truck and the guy who owned it before me, might be because of the model changeover, either way it remains an exercise in frustration that I'd rather not deal with.

Pretty much yeah, need one to pass smog in California. Funnily enough after making this thread the guy currently working on my truck offered to fabricate/weld one together when I brought it up, so that problem is (maybe) solved. Even offered to bring my truck to the smog guys across the street from his shop after doing so since he used to be a smog guy way back in the day, and they know each other, which will (hopefully) make the whole process easier. Though on the downside the downpipe I ordered didn't fit properly, so it'll be a few days before he can do that since he has to cut/weld it to connect to the rest of the exhaust system. Such is the life of owning a 720 made on the year they switched models I guess.

^Title. Anyone know where I can find one for an 86 720 pickup? It feels like I've looked everywhere at this point, and I'd rather not have to buy a (non-CARB compliant) manifold just for the heat shield it comes with.

Eh, worth a shot. It does seem like all the 4x4 breaks are 2 1/4+ inches wide, whereas mine are 1 3/4. So either the guy who owned the truck before me swapped some stuff out, or RockAuto is listing their stuff wrong. Looks like the BENDIX 571 shoes will fit though, at 10" X 1.77". Or the RAYBESTOS 527PG, since they're on sale and I've heard good things about them.

Right, so I've had a devil of a time trying to find new brake shoes for my truck. Must've ordered at least three sets and sent 'em back because despite the claims of various websites, they did not in fact fit. Though at least I found good Drums on the second try. Anyone know where I can find ones that will? I measure the brakes out at 1 3/4 inches wide, but a lot of the ones I can find that actually seem like they might work are for RWD while mine is 4wd, and the 4wd ones listed are too wide. Does it really even matter as long as they fit?

Good to know, shouldn't be too hard. But yeah, I'm pretty sure the guy who owned it before me or my uncle did messed with the wiring something fierce. He was a mechanic, but apparently a terrible one judging by the state of the truck when my uncle first bought it. Edit: Success! Took a bit of finagling, but I can finally see my oil pressure. Very happy the gauge wasn't also toast. Though I'm at a loss on how to tighten the sensor with a wrench/whatever after getting it as far as I (carefully) could by hand. It doesn't appear to be leaking at the moment, but I'll wait a bit and see if it starts to.

The Old Unit: The New Unit: What I was (poorly) trying to ask was if there was an adapter that would work with the latter image to fit a female T shaped connector, or if I should just redo the wiring on either the old connector leading to the gauge/light, or the new oil sending unit using some spade terminals. On a side note, I'm left wondering why my old one looks so different from all the new ones. And you would not believe how hard it was to find under all the...well, layers and layers of grease/dirt/I don't even want to know. At first I thought it was part of the engine itself, and wondered what it did as well as what the wiring led to, but after consulting my books for the tenth time it appeared that no, it really was the oil pressure unit. Just, y'know, absolutely buried under a massive layer of crap.

So I was replacing my oil pressure sending unit with a new one since the old one was so rusted/caked with sludge that I'm surprised it hadn't fallen apart, but I've run into something of a dilemma. The old unit apparently had it's connectors in a T shape, while the new one is the same as a regular old plug. Are there any adapters I could use for this, or will I have to cut/redo the wires up on either the sending unit or the plug leading to the gauge?

Ah, well that's good to know. Unfortunate considering how far away I live, and how long they've been there, but good to know. Mm, yeah looks like there's only three and a half(since one looks pretty picked over) down there that aren't the D21 model, and have been there since February. ...Guess I'll try my luck, but if it's as busy as suggested then I don't expect much. Hopefully they've left the rear window locks alone, since the guy before me broke it off somehow, and the Nissan website wants like $40 for 'em. Or the Exhaust Manifolds, but I'm betting those were one of the first things pulled off.

>.> ...Funnily enough mine already has that in a nice (if faded) blue colour, and it's the original one too. Though if I spot another one I'll definitely take it if it's in a good enough condition, since the original one's glue/stitching is pretty worn down.

So I'm likely heading down to a few Pick n Pulls next week, and wondered if I should be on the lookout for any parts in particular when it comes to an '86 720, or compatible 720 parts in general. Other than the air conditioner, and manual locking hubs that is.

https://www.amazon.com/Pieces-2-2K-Metal-Resistor-Tolerance/dp/B00VKQP4AY https://www.westfloridacomponents.com/G243PE07/1W+2.2K+ohm+Allen+Bradley+Carbon+Comp+Resistor+Military+RCR32G222JS.html Would resistors such as these work? And how would I go about assembling/soldering the new tach resistor if so?

...Oh, my bad Was just being dumb and reading the catalytic converter warning the Walker Exhaust website had on ever page as applying to the piping as well without looking at the fine print. In that case would the Walker brand suffice, or are there sturdier manufacturers worth the money?

Both of them are White/Blue, which is rather the issue. I'm guessing the guy before me fiddled with it a bit to do...something. Maybe the detachable engine light located right past the coolant reservoir, haven't seen one of those in any other Nissan. Interesting to know about that plug though, do they even do that anymore for trucks this old? If so colour me surprised. Though it does appear that the Nissan website is the only place that sells the resistors...besides one guy on Ebay, who wanted $30 for a used one. So, going back to my other question earlier, is the only place online to get the front exhaust pipe/front pipe/down pipe/the pipe that connects to the exhaust manifold/whatever...at the Nissan website? Because I've looked around and that's the only place I can find a OEM/California compliant one, which is rather surprising since I thought there would at least be some used ones floating around.

Would this be it? Though I have no idea why there are two of them if so. Or what the thing to the left of them appears to be, since it doesn't lead anywhere. Edit: It appears that my uncle lost the OEM down pipe/front pipe that went to the original exhaust manifold, or it got stolen along with said exhaust manifold. Any idea where to find a new/used (California legal) one outside of here on the Nissan website? I've looked around and while Walkers used to be legal, that hasn't been the case since 2009. Edit2: It does appear that the resistors are gone/fried/corroded, and as I don't have any real electronic places in my town that might sell them, should I just order these from Nissan?

Alas, the only Radio Shack in my town closed down years ago, and even before that all they sold was cell phones, and cell phone accessories.