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About Toxicrain

  • Rank
  • Birthday 09/17/2000

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Monterey Bay Area Cali
  • Cars
    1985 Nissan 720. 1989 Camaro Z28 RS. Parts cars 1981 Datsun 720 1999 Ram 1500
  • Interests
    Gettin paychecks and Blowin it on my rides!

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  1. I may be interested in the grill if its the NISSAN one. Im sure if you posted photos in the for sale category people would hit you up.
  2. if you dont live in a smog state go for 32/36 weber. only hose is fuel and dizzy tube. would suggest if not already electric pump and some say you dont need a regulator but I would install one so you know that the weber is getting its 3psi. EASY to tune idle speed and air/fuel and there are PLENTY of forums on it and countless manuals and guides to help.
  3. Thank you good sir!! i noticed this one says 2wd rather than the "rwd" i got originally.. Yea I want to find a pair of 4x4 leaf springs because they have less suspension travel(stiffer) for when I haul things like the 700lb 5.7l magnum motor I had to deliever. Rode about on the bump stops which are perfectly about a 1/4" away from fender which is nice ive never hit it. Ideally I want to c-notch and bag all the way around but I need to travel up to sacramento and find a shop willing to do it that I trust. for the moment Im looking to use belltech spindles with torsion bar the rest if needed whenever I find 15" rims or some 17" titans for cheap. and the 4x4 springs with a 2-3" block. I dont want to be completely slammed as I do want to be able to use the truck as a truck still but I will find that happy medium hopefully. Thats all just idealistic if I can ever find those parts here before someone else snags them haha.. i also just did link kit and Im waiting for payday to get tierods and ill be able to do upper and lower ball joints tie rods and that should fix a lot of my steering slop(its about 90' turn before my wheels start to move) alignment after of course.
  4. So im going to rebuild the suspension while I put the orginal intake back on that I got from captain (thanks!) so I can do smog and have a nice ride instead of hearing squeaks and reduce steering play. Anyways I went with kyb shocks and I ordered and installed the fronts just fine (KG4605a) however the rears I would figure they would be the type with 2 round holes like my camaro where the bolts go through the side so I ordered (KG5473) off amazon and turns out my shock mount for my rear is like the front with a stud coming out of the top except for the rear it faces down? well the ones I got dont fit so I will return but I cant find the correct one to order? wondering if anyone can help me out on this and send me a link to rear 720 rwd shocks that have the stud rather than the round hole?
  5. probably your air/fuel screw loosened overtime and its running a little rich. just tighten it quarter turn in until it stalls out then back it out until smooth idle. Edit: this may not be hitachi carb but should be close to what it looks like. air/fuel screw is down by base of carb somewhere. I have a weber its located on the back right corner.. Cant remember where on Hitachi. Im sure someone else will pitch in some input to get past the torture of california smog.
  6. Toxicrain


    Cheap yellow tint off amazon and D.I.Y.
  7. @charlie69 Yea that was a long process and I only paid for the fuel line as I returned everything else because I work at a hardware store.. anyways I was trying to fix why it would fuel cut after 2 min of idling. thats why I rigged up some stuff just to diagnose .. Its fixed and I did put the stock y on and never used any of that brass plumbing shit in the truck... Turned out to be the mr. gasket fpr that I had replaced twice and I was chasing everything else down when my problem was right there.. Im not going back to stock pumps I went through 5 they would run for maybe a month and then click louder and eventually give out. (using holley fpr and fuel rated psi gauge to test up at carb) unfortunately the mechanic who installed my weber origanally for me said it was a knockoff but idk how as the P.O. who sold me the truck paid $300 for it and it has genuine weber sticker on carb.. I should have just done the weber myself because after he installed it there were so many vaccum leaks that I was chasing down for a solid month. he used cheap rubber caps that would just blow off. I used brass caps on the intake to plug them and thats it.. but I wasnt confident in myself for the swap so thats why I had someone else do it.. now looking at it and seeing what was actually involved I am confident that I could put it back to stock myself with no issues. I just need the orig Hitachi rebuilt and intake fittings because I cracked all of them taking them out.. Im sure I could use brass fittings to make due because its just vacuum.. but im afraid that I wont pass visual and they will be considered "upgraded" because when I was doing smog on my 89 camaro I needed a tube from the exhaust heat shield to the air cleaner and had to buy 3 different exhaust hoses for it to be considered oem.. I still have 2 months to come up with something.. im considering just buying another parts truck thats z24 this time and is completely stock oem basic with a transmission problem or something so I can have visual representation and a whole set of parts.
  8. Alright just got in the mail my reg for my truck and turns out that it needs smog for some reason even though the last owner did it for me when i put the truck in my name a week after i bought it last year. So my options are selling it as-is. Going to a diff state. Attempt at a stock manifold cover. Or putting orig parts back on? I have old carb and can get fittings and hose. My egr is still on the truck and i still have my vapor/gas canister. I would just need to rebuild carb which im confident I could do. Just worried about failing visual because of the fuel pump or there is one vaccum hose that I never chase down. Any other ideas on how to get by this? I thought requirement was every other year in cali. I was not expecting this and my camaro just broke down on me so im relying on my truck a lot. I know its 2 months out but I need to see how to get through this to continue driving it in the future.
  9. when you turn the key is there just nothing from the starter? Check for loose cable at starter and replace the ignition switch would be the first steps. you could always hook up a push start button for it and bypass.
  10. It sounds like fuel cut because your on a hill and gunning it so your using whats in the fuel bowl and the stock pump isnt pushing enough gph to supply going up hill. I will suggest the carter 4070 pump because it is a high gph 75gph low psi pump perfect for webers as its output is about 5psi and get a good fuel pressure regulator i suggest holley 12-803 with any low psi 1-10 fuel rated pressure gauge hooked right on the front side of the fpr so you can pop the hood and easily see whats happening. it might be pricy compared to stock stuff but ive been dailying this setup for 4 months now and ZERO issues at all. The temp gauge is a VERY common issue with 720s there are many forums on it.. your thermo is most likely sticking open. put a higher temp thermo on it and it will raise it up a bit. many gauges read about that on street and when on highway mine goes under the 2nd squiggly thing i believe i put a 185 in it. you can also place the pump lower than the tank to gravity feed it better.
  11. It's a one way valve to prevent gas expolsion if you roll over i think its actually connected to the evap line.. see my thread i replaced my whole gas tank and plenty of pictures. the y should be a big metal line which goes down through the intake on stock carbs and you may or may not have moved it to loop your fuel line behind the carb and in. I heard somewhere that weber 32/36 is too much cfm for the engine and when WoT the secondary just opens for air so try running richer to compensate for the mass air the secondary pushes. I havnt modified my jets on mine but i run 3.2psi and little rich to cruise at 70mph and have to slowly open secondary to prevent bog. but if you try to open it under 3k its just gonna hate it. on phone I open post image and the comment section that im trying to write in on another tab. put image into postimage and take the "hotlink for forum" link and I paste it right into the comment and it pops up just fine after you post it. EDIT: sorry i just looked on my topic and i guess my pictures expired...
  12. if you have a mechanical pump the pressure can be adjusted. it is located by the carb maybe behind it. If its a stock carb the stock electric pump shouldn't be pushing too much psi. if you really think its flooding check float level and make sure the spring or whatever stops when the fuel reaches center of clear hole on carb works.. If you think the pump is pushing too much psi put a regulator before the carb after the filter. anywhere in between the line will suffice. I DO NOT suggest the mr.gasket one because mine failed and I was tracking it down for months. this will tell you a lot about your fuel system right away and it will be easier to diagnose what to do next. If you havn't already I would replace the fuel filter as it can cause issues itself and is an $8 2 minute job. You might be missing a gasket somewhere if you have fuel dumping out the side of the carb. you can see my thread if you wanna read through it i'm sure you will find some useful information. (chasing down fuel issue 85' z24 weber 32/36)
  13. Toxicrain

    Pick n Pull

    yup row52.com search under datsun pickup not under nissan pickup because those are all the D21's. Check that daily and the second you see one get down there and get what you need will be gone within a month I signed up for the emails so I get notification right when they get a 720 near my area :D
  14. Yea i drove with clunk for 2 weeks and in the corner you can see the result. Local mechanic was suprised it hadnt fallen out yet
  15. u-joints most likely worn out. you can feel it when the engine isnt in-line (same rpm) with the transmission when going into gears. DO NOT drive it like this as the u joint will pop out and driveshaft will fall. the clattering is most likely timing chain slap my truck has developed but it isnt crazy loud and its only initally startup at the 1800/2k cold rpm rev like yours. if your comfortable of messing with the timing should be an easy fix.
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