Jump to content

Paulz

New Members
  • Content Count

    18
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

9 Neutral

About Paulz

  • Rank
    Newbie

Profile Information

  • Location
    NorCal
  • Cars
    1980 720 4x4
  • Interests
    mechanics
  1. Paulz

    Any Smog Guys Here?

    I'm back. I put the carb back on today, ran it some more and believe I've discovered the vacuum leak is at the throttle shaft. Here is a video. That's starting fluid I'm spraying. The idle mixture screw does work, it almost stalls out when all the way in and picks up at a turn or so out but from there on out stays the same. Vacuum is about 16 at rough idle and 20 when I spray the shaft area. The funky sound is the unhooked smog pump valve but it does well do show the stumble.
  2. Paulz

    Any Smog Guys Here?

    Thanks again. I'm away until Thursday, I'll get the carb back on and report back.
  3. Paulz

    Any Smog Guys Here?

    Thanks guys. I have found one thing: I held an unlit propane torch around the carb and at the base that faces the engine, idle speed increased. Sprayed some ether there, same thing. Pulled the carb thinking I'd find something but the gaskets and the insulator block look fine. Had to quit for the day but there is a vacuum leak there somewhere. It's not the throttle shafts, they are tight. My original post was confusing. When I first got this truck it wouldn't idle at all and vacuum was way low. By disconnecting some of the vacuum driven smog components I was able to raise the vacuum and get an idle, albeit rough. The diaphragms in those components, like my advance can, are shot. If I can get it to idle smooth and lower the HC then I'll start reconnecting the smog stuff. I'm not in the smog license class at the college, the teacher just showed me how to use the sniffer in manual mode. I'm taking auto body.. I'll try and get to the root of this carb base leak tomorrow and report back. Thanks again. Edit: Flatcat just saw your post. Since it runs well at high speeds and under load I have not suspected ignition components but I will have a look.
  4. Paulz

    Any Smog Guys Here?

    Still trying to get my 1980 720 to pass a smog test. I have use of the sniffer at my college. Hydrocarbons way too high at idle, 900, needs to be under 200. CO good at .25, NOx good at 80. Everything good at high speed. Causes for high HC supposed to include improper timing, defective ignition components, lean condition, low compression, bad cat. Runs great on the road, zippy when you open the secondary. Compression equal, don't know about the cat, looks old. Pulls 17 inches vacuum at idle. I have all vacuum driven smog components blocked off right now. The vacuum advance can is bad so that's blocked off too. Idle mixture screw works but idle is rough. Oh and occasionally it smoke blue at idle, then quits completely, like flipping a switch. PCV valve checks out. What to do, besides move?
  5. Paulz

    Getting a 1980 4x4 back on the road

    Yeah the door panels and dash are black. I think it'd be easy to find seats that give another inch or two of leg room. Ideally I'd like a bench. An airline pilot friend of mine was based in Phoenix and kept an '80s Mustang there. Every time his registration came up for a smog test he would check the box that said the vehicle was out of state and get his new tags, did this for at least 6 years. Now he's based in San Fran, the car is here with engine check light on, he still checks that box, just got his tags. Tempting...how would they know? Wouldn't work on a transfer though I doubt. I'm going to put a fuel pressure gauge on it now and see what the electric pump is putting out. It has a mid range flat spot, might as well eliminate fuel pressure. I see mechanical pumps on the auction site, pretty cheap. No power steering on this one, only belts are alternator, water pump and smog pump. 1980 was an odd ball year I'm told, factory manual doesn't even mention 4WD. And it is hard to steer. Gonna top up the T case today with GL4 and buy the GM stuff for the trans. How much do I need for the 4 speed? Thanks for all the advice guys!
  6. Paulz

    Getting a 1980 4x4 back on the road

    Thanks for the replies. Yeah a king cab would be nice, but for a freebie I can't complain. It is tight, especially for my fat old ass. Are these the original seats? If I do get it registered for road use I may have to change them. I was going to hook up the mechanical pump that's still on there to a jar of fuel and run the engine but the input spigot is broken off. I've had a couple of cheap electric pumps go bad (probably ethanol) but this one appears to be hanging in there. The transfer case was the only thing low on fluid and the outside is black (as opposed to light brown dirt everywhere else) so it probably does leak. I'll top it up and see what happens. So the slow shifting trans when cold is common then. Not too bad for me right now but I do change fluid I'll take your advice. About it for now, can't work on it for a couple days. I did order a new tailgate handle, old one broken. That was cheap. Had to drill out the rusted screws on the tailgate panel.
  7. Paulz

    Getting a 1980 4x4 back on the road

    Thanks guys. Here is a photo via Imgur. It's the L20 engine, divorced t-case so I'll go with the 90w. The trans (4 speed) might need some fluid, hard to tell my finger hits the shift fork right away. It's hard to shift when cold, maybe some Redline would help that. Oh, the previous owner put an electric fuel pump on it, the mechanical is still there on the block disconnected. Are the mechanical pumps failure prone?
  8. Paulz

    Getting a 1980 4x4 back on the road

    Hi again, I posted a couple of times before about the neglected 720 ranch truck given me by my neighbor. I have it home and running now, the plan is to see if it will pass a California smog test, if so I will register it and fix it up for road use. If not I'll use it off road at my property. Hoping you guys can help me address some issues: 1. This thing must have a dozen vacuum driven fuel/emissions related gizmos. It was pulling under 15 inches of vacuum until I removed the air cleaner and plugged off everything but the ignition advance, now it's around 18 and idles nice. I'll have to start reconnecting things and figure out where the leaks are. 2. Carb looks new, In fact it appears as if the head has been redone. The secondary butterfly was stuck, got that free and can feel it kick in. There is still a mid range stumble that comes and goes but other than that it seems to be OK. 3 Checked all the fluids last night. The transfer case is low, couldn't even get my finger down to see what is uses, 90w? 4. As I mentioned before, there is a skip/clunk when descending or turning in 4WD with hubs locked. I have noticed with it on a lift that the left front hub locks when the knob is turned about half way. The right on the other hand doesn't lock until the knob is turned almost all the way clockwise, like maybe if it turned further it would lock in further. Maybe there is an adjustment for that? Not a big deal at the moment. I have purchased a 1980 year specific Nissan factory service manual, they don't even mention a 4x4 model. Thanks for any help. It's a fun little truck I hope to get some good use out of. And it's funny, people really like seeing it, I have some photos, do I have to upload to photobucket first?
  9. Paulz

    1980 720 4x4 clunks with hubs locked in 4wd

    Thanks guys. It's a 1980, and when it clunks I think it does momentarily skip. I'll check that out. One of the old boots looks like it's a split boot that you put on without removing the axle. I'll check into the 240 kit.
  10. Paulz

    New 720 Owner in Need of Help with High Idle

    Progress! I bought a factory, 1980 only 720 service manual. The choke relay is one of the two attached to the fuse panel, and the fuse is indeed the rearmost. What I found was, the previous owner added an electric fuel pump (the mechanical one is still on the engine, disconnected), and ran it off of the input wire to the choke relay, thereby disconnecting power to the relay. I jumpered it back and got power to the choke. The remaining question is: should I power the fuel pump like it was (straight off the 10 amp relay fuse), or splice into the blue choke wire (thereby sharing the relay with the choke), or from another location?
  11. Paulz

    1980 720 4x4 clunks with hubs locked in 4wd

    Got out to my ranch yesterday and crawled under the truck. Sure enough, one inner boot missing, two others cracked (I just got this truck). Could a bad joint actually skip?
  12. Paulz

    1980 720 4x4 clunks with hubs locked in 4wd

    Thanks guys. I'll let you know what I find.
  13. I use my truck to get up to my cabin, steep dirt road. Particularly when I go downhill or make a tight turn with the hub locked there is a loud and noticeable clunk ever so often, like something in the front hubs is skipping. Anyone run across this? It seems to be OK going uphill, which is really when I need the 4wd. I can take it out when descending or turning on flat ground if necessary but it's nice to use the engine when descending.
  14. Paulz

    New 720 Owner in Need of Help with High Idle

    Hi Mike. Got to work on the 720 today. Running pretty well with the choke wire jumpered to the idle wire. I have power to that rearmost fuse but still can't locate the relay. Nothing above pass kick panel. I read something about one being behind the glove box or console? Like to find it.
  15. Paulz

    New 720 Owner in Need of Help with High Idle

    Thanks Mike, you sure know these things. Boy what a complicated choke! Tempted to hook up a cable..The idle cut wire is also referred to as anti dieseling wire I believe, it's the only other wire at the carb and I did jumper to it yesterday when testing. I'm away from the truck now but I don't recall any fuse in the rearmost slot, and I also looked between the glove box and kick panel and didn't see any relays. I'll have another look on Tuesday. Thanks and Happy New Year!
×

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.