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Wayne Freeman

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About Wayne Freeman

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  • Location
    Las Vegas
  • Cars
    1985 Nissan 720 KC. 2nd owner. Runs like new. 248k miles..
  • Interests
    My truck.
    Easy high paying jobs available.
    Good looking Wealthy females.
  • Occupation
    Flooring Installer
  1. Wayne Freeman

    Buy just 1 Accelerator pump and Boot. They wear out fast.

    FIXED I should of put the heat riser tube on and put the extra spring back....see Ive been using an extra spring for years...that goes down about 10 inches and i hook it to a gas line i think. well this makes my carb idle return fast and somehow i get a consistent idle with the extra tension spring. it idles way down but i adjust the idle screw til i get 800 rpm. without the xtra spring on..(i didnt think it would make a difference) but sure does big time....without it the motor rpms go to 1400-1500rpm and is a bit eratic and then there goes all of the gas dripping from venturi. i believe the throttle shaft gets too much air without that extra spring and over the years somehow it just makes the carb great..consistent. i also can change gears fast (Without clutch 2-3-4- 5 th gears if not in a hurry. and bcdd etc set right. I had to go give an estimate this morning..after that i pulled over to put my bcdd right again and decided to put the xtra spring on and whaaalaaa theres my girl!! makes sense now. i noticed also when the heat riser tube wasnt on straight at exhaust the snorkel was closed....put that right and now it stays open like it should. enjoyed a great trip back home in my 720 like all the times before..running like new. Thanks for being there Happy New Year.
  2. Wayne Freeman

    Buy just 1 Accelerator pump and Boot. They wear out fast.

    Now another problem. I finally put the new accelerator pump in...i couldnt buy a boot seperate so the old is still there and works fine i guess. i took the carb off to replace acc pump and clean and adjust the cam from touching anything as i dont like high idle when cold and choke working. ( now im thinking ive had a bit of problem with it idling too high with choke/cam working til warm up) After spraying carb cleaner in the jet ports and from venturi ports backwards and everywhere else i could.... i put the carb back on. i had to make and use 2 cork gaskets....material i had lying around instead of the thin gaskets from a kit for the (2)carb bases'...put all back together and cranked it up. NOW it idles high and eventually dies....theres too much gas dripping down from the venturi and i noticed the snorkle part of air cleaner where the heat riser tube meets it..that diaphram there with a vac hose from (port b at air cleaner-fastboats vac diagram..nicoclub) that stays closed for the warm exhaust air til engine warmed....well that diaphram stays closed even when engine fully hot... and buzzes. i think i messed up a bb or something when carb cleaner spraying. allowing too much gas to venturi somehow. I checked the spring and bb at bottom of the accel pump and its perfect...the new acc pump works fine as i drove it 7 miles so far. it just tries to die especially on hard braking and have to pump the petal a bit does this cali feedback carb have 2 bb's to worry about? and i messed one up spraying carb cleaner evrywhere? this carb looks just like a dfp384. my carb id print is missing. So ive read as much as i can and hope to get a few suggestions to right this thing. i even tried to idle it real high and smother the carb with a towel to try to dislodge something but it still runs...actually just fine and smooth with a towel smothering it to death.,,,sign of a hell of a vac leak ??? oh BTWAY my float chamber is at mid level and working fine i guess but somehow i suspect it is dumping fuel to the venturi ANYWAYS. tomorrow am ill- 1st. read ratsun for better ideas.. why is this happening to MEEEEE LOL. 1. redo the gaskets maybe its sucking air or obstructing airflow? 2. figure why the snorkel diaphram is staying closed and bzzing. 3. put cam back as before 4. disect this carb and look for a problem..then buy thin gasket material to put it back together. ITS WINTER I HATE LEARNING..AND PROBLEMS. thank you.
  3. Wayne Freeman

    Buy just 1 Accelerator pump and Boot. They wear out fast.

    In the pic above..it looks like gas has come up and ruined the boot also. is this just normal after so many miles or months of operation?
  4. Wayne Freeman

    Buy just 1 Accelerator pump and Boot. They wear out fast.

    Oh yea i remember there is an adjustment. There are holes on top of the pump...i placed the set up right in my mind that made sense....like to make sure the pump travels far enough to provide the engine plenty of gas upon full throttle.. but it may be bottoming out then ruining it? I dont even know what the accelerator pump is for really..i havent needed to know the order of routes the gas goes thru the carb. ... guessing the jets allow more or less gas down to the motor depending on throttle position? How do you know what hole to set the pump at...do i just push the pump all the way down then back it up a bit then hook it up..so it doesnt bottom out at full throttle or something like that? Hey what air filter do yall use? id spend money for the best. k&n? i went to Autozone late last night and got a new air filter and the only one they had was an stp so i got it for now ..Ive only been using fram or stp air filters forever. does it matter with air filters?. Thank you. I worked late again so i may have to wait til Monday to order the new pump and boot. Tomorrows Saturday im going to see where the lever is set to the pump. i have to adjust the choke..its set itself revn too high somehow...... it has held right for 4 years tho.
  5. Wayne Freeman

    Buy just 1 Accelerator pump and Boot. They wear out fast.

    Its just the boot thats the problem. i have the original air filter assembly so the boot isnt noticeable until the assembly is removed (about every 6-12 months for some reason or another). By then it is completely missing. except once it was split and barely hanging on. The pump neoprene is usually ok but once way back i think it was cracked a bit when i tried to put it back in and realized its bad and needs replaced. ill order a new boot and pump today and reply how the old pump neoprene looks. id guess its just in OK condition as its only about 2 years old but will replace it in a few days and post condition. ill try to post some pics of old/new pump and my truck.
  6. Wayne Freeman

    Buy just 1 Accelerator pump and Boot. They wear out fast.

    I replied this am but mustatook too long and the reply didnt stick again. doing 4 things at once. and make sure to sign in even when looks like signed in already. Every time i take the air house off i notice the boot is bad or missing and dirt n gas residue there. tired of buying a $30 kit for just a pump and boot, ACTUALLY ITS JUST THE BOOT THAT GOES MISSING... so i just replace the pump too. I need to find a exploded view of these parts at carb to see if im missing a gasket or something...its just a flat oval like metal washer that holds the pump in place.. maybe a little rtv might help it out.. Think the boot is rubber and black color and the pump is rubber or so in blue or black. i wouldnt think to check the bore but definantly will. if theres a burr to fix thatd be good. i imagine gas vapor is causing the boot to deteriorate too fast or just cheap replacements available. wonder if performance is lost and i dont notice it since its slowly deteriorating over a 6 month period. could replace them ev 6-12 months as it goes. this last boots been missing for nearly 2 years but it runs fine still. just didnt want to buy another $30 kit. Last night i found individual boot-pump available at www.carburation.com. its carbs unlimited inc in Auburn Wa. with ?/info line at 253 833 4105 or order by phone at 800 994 2277. Cant believe i didnt order one today i had the day off but goofed off napped thru movies nice lazy afternoon. ive been back to work since last post and have rent ready and more. its booming here gonna be an awesome next year got my eye on a single cab across town in good original shape with 135 k just sitting there (broke down?) gone find out. AND an 84 KC too ..here in MY neighborhood. they prob just need the oil pump dist lined up correctly...hahahahaha when i get $1000 or more im going to go knock on that door with cash ready. ive got the best looking KC wish i could post pic figure it out later. it has the stripe still from front to back and curls up to the top tailgate like i remember the new ones had back in the 80's. with ST wheels tint all original except 225 size tires. about to put 205s in the front though. 205 front w/225 in back should ride better, look good and go 75-80 mph without so many rpms . if Weber carbs need replacing too is good news i guess. they just go bad soon. seems to be a good idea to apply a bit of rtv over the flat oval washer or so. ill study that and if possible apply at next replacement time and try for increased boot life.
  7. Hello. I rebuilt the Hitachi 4 years ago and seems i need a new accelerator pump and boot replaced every 6 months. Ive had the same damaged pump and boot on for 2 years now. This last one does work good beat up but now i just want to buy another pump and boot. Not from a whole kit anymore. Only place i see to buy just what i need without the whole kit is from Carbs Unlimited. Seems there is only 1 available... Accelerator pump part #866F and Boot part #862F ..from Carbs Unlimited. Anyone else notice the fast turnaround with these parts or is there another source...maybe a better heavy duty pump/boot available somewhere. BTW yea im starting to want the Weber. I want a Weber carb. ...and get rid of the vac hoses, looks like theres better air flow and gain some performance... but need to wait til spring. Thank you.
  8. That makes sense. the locknut is still in the middle of the dist adjust range. my last post was out of order. i was confident i had the oil pump done then i re torque the head bolts while cold. Then warmed it up and checked with timing light. Then on to valve adjustment. Just before all this ive been interested and reading about torquing bolts and motor oil . i bought a torque wrench (i still need a small IN LB wrench) and have even the spark plugs torqued right...on cold motor also. and a few weeks ago i changed over to delo 400 after reading about zinc. i had chose regular valvoline race oil... not the xp but couldnt find it stocked at napa and carquest. i think the xp is good for 3000 miles (ok for cat converters} and the ''higher zinc regular'' is recomended to be changed every 500 miles (not for cat converters} so ill just stay with delo or rotela. I didnt notice any chain slap today. I use a hidden remote starter button inside the cab and crank it over on cold mornings before starting it. oh i did remove a little bit of chain guide plastic when i dropped the oil pan for a new gasket that was all that was in there..glad to know what that was. Thats something about that wood wedge you mentioned that was left behind id like to meet that guy n give it back. LOL The whole reason why this work has come is from the oil leaks that has started the last 2 months and was getting quite noticeable. Oil pump replacement was just because its a good little truck. the 1st couple years i owned it i did use fram sometimes, i didnt know better. and ive always used Mobile 1030 synthetic Last summer in Vegas it was so dangerously hot as Hell maybe the heat helped pushed oil past the gaskets. ive only been in Vegas for 5 months and last month i had to drive all the way to xxxxx New Mexico and back just to renew my license...a 1300 mile round trip. (im not ready to put my cat back on..pass smog ..get NV license/insurance yet}... im holding out til next fall. i decided to just change the filter and go and i put a darn fram on. id change the oil and filter after the trip. i have a feeling fram has sped up oil leaks. i have a Napa Mobile1 m1-301 on now. Anyways burning 1300 miles with no concern may prove the confidence i have in the trucks reliability.. NM residents must show up in a physical license office to renew,, i love road trip no big deal. its hard to cash checks with expired driver license. A few months ago i also replaced a seriously leaking high pressure hose. Now only the rear seal is leaking. Ill be 0.5% no 100% prepared for that Beforehand.
  9. I woke up early feeling good. at 7 am i moved the drive spindle a bit more to the right (another slight 1128 position) hookup timing light and the timing mark landed on TDC or 0 on the timing scale. i think i could move the drive a bit more left and it would be at 3* but why? Herea a serious question.. ISNT THAT WHAT turning the distributor left or right is for..? being able to move the mark within the scale. i only had to move the cap left about 1/8 of an inch counter clockwise. It runs and drives so good... im addicted i love the thing. i decided to retorque the head bolts as ive read so many times how. loosen then re torque one at a time. the thrill was when the wrench clicked after reaching 60ft lbs all were done and nothing broke. im doing the valves next. HERES another good thing today. The valve adjustment on hot engine set to 12. ive read people do it several ways..cold engine hot engine 8- 14 degrees I BELIEVE HERES THE BEST WAY. it mattered on mine today. The first try after prepping. basically just leaving 4 bolts on valve cover to remove it quickly.... then idle to hot engine...adjust all valves.. but after firing it up i noticed the temp guage needle was down 3/16'' cooler even after only 5 mins during the adjustment process .....so I BELIEVE HAVING THE VALVE COVER OFF SPEEDS UP ENGINE COOLING FASTER..ESPECIALLY THE LAST 4 VALVES THAT ARE WAITING..COOLING DOWN OUTSIDE THEIR OVEN. i fired it up to hot engine again... then with lobes up at TDC i adjusted only the last 4 valves that had cooled and sure enough they needed a bit of correction especially the last one for me was intake #4. its dead silence now except the chain slap is more clear to hear. even racing the motor quite high they are quiet.solid. peace of mind. Im going back to work. not going to be kicked out on my ear homeless AND without transportation..O H N! this is my only ride.. if your ever in LV and see a copper King Cab hauling 12' carpet rolls and pad all over the place... flash ur lights n wave.. therego knothead. I plan on retiring her next fall for pleasure only. im getting a transit connect for working. NEXT REPAIRS....Timing chain and rear seal. Ratsun Rules. --- ===END===
  10. Its running good now. the wires were correct on the distributor but i had to switch the wires at #1 and #2 intake plugs. this is how i swithched the !&$%***^%#ckers. i was going to remove all the intake plugs for ease of TDC and only got as far as removing the 1 and 2 wires. i changed my mind and put them back....i would only remove #1 ex plug for TDC which ive had to remove 47900 times this week because it never ran right with those wires crossed. The timing light says the mark is lower than the scale and i know i have to repeat the process 1 more time to get the drive moved 1 more slot and mark will be back inside the scale. i never loosened the bolt that allows the dist to move left n right for timing so i think the mark should land back at 3 degrees. i hope this lesson was supposed to happen otherwise i dont appreciate it. at all. woulda only took 1/2 day if wires didnt get switched. i appreciate you guys though and ill report the final results tomorrow. day 6. more like 3..i goof off alot.
  11. Thank you 1i at the 9 oclock 1 e at 4 was another question i had...ive never read that detail anywhere yet. thats important. Right on...its time to stay attentive how these parts work together .... At the end of yesterday i noticed 1e 2e 3e 4e 1i 2i 3i 4i marked on the dist cap to make it easy. will study cap n wires locations thoroughly set it up right...check thrice...hopefully finish with the timing light. i need to get back to work its getting serious. i totally appreciate getting all this info. i wonder if its possible to have the dist cap on upside down. so glad theres a problem to correct today.
  12. Having to re type this post it didnt stick so ill be brief in case ive used up all my posts.. newby. Thanks for pics..i finally suspected plug wires sure enough 1i at 2i 2i at 1i and 1e at 1i locations. total mindblowing surprise! Maybe no big deal but i cant get the rotor buttons to line up at 9 n 4. everything right on and mine is at 7 and 2. it has ran up to 50%. Another 8 hours tomorrow maybe it will come to me. i wonder if the prior T chain replacement was off and the mechanic compensated o pump/ distr location and nailed it..runs 100%??
  13. Ok . ive had to remove the v cover bolts again so i can lift the v cover to MAKE SURE the lobees are down then adjust. im not sure otherwise. i finally got it to run at 50 %. i think my rotor button is going to pointing at near 9 o clock to run perfect. its at 845 now and today ill drop the o pump and twist it a bit more and it should begin idling smoother. the 2 crescents will probably read 12 35 instead of 1128.whatever makes it run perfect again. this is the 5th day correcting this mistake. almost there.
  14. Thanks very much for all the info. A grabber tool would of worked the first time. Id of left it sitting there but since i still had the center link and cross bar out of the way already. ( left off the day before from replacing oil pan gasket} so i removed the oil pan again to get the "half moon".. it was too big to fall into the oil pan..but i was able to thump it a few inches for my shop vac water hose reducer to suck it up.. i was only able to get it thru the distributor hole only. (more room) the other thing is i lost the distributor o ring too. (it was cold n windy i was rushing the work is why all the errors). i thought id find it by vacumming more down n around the TC Cover.. no luck.. then reversing the shop vac hose and blowing air from the top then bottom of Timing chain cover to see it fly around but no. i blew air everywhere to see if it got stuck below fan or frame... wheel wells...everywhere.. but its so missing it doesnt exist. good riddance! i walked to Autozone for the assortment o ring pack i read about here to get it done.. today. The oil pan is back on. oil is back in and valve cover back on with dabs of permatex rtv on gaskets to make them all stay put. Tomorrow i hope i get the distributor/oil pump timing lined up. STEPS- 1 TDC compression stroke. 2 Dist on and rotor pointing to #1 exhaust plug terminal. 3 install oil pump to fit dist. 4 crank it up 5 timing light.check.. still on 3 degrees i hope. i have it marked. Post results tomorrow.
  15. Im a novice not clear on alot about this truck but learning the hard way sometimes. my question is- Can i remove the oil pan and reach the half moon valve cover gasket i dropped into the bottom of the timing chain cover?? Could it possibly be in the oil pan? Does anyone know what it looks like at the bottom of the timing chain cover and how much room or opening between the TC cover and the Oil Pan. FULL STORY- Yesterday i replaced the oil pump without spindle drive, distributor and TDC knowledge AND messed it up! Today i Had the valve cover off to watch and learn about valves, lobes, and TDC compression stroke works before i line up the distributor/oil pump drive to make it run like new again in perfect timing. Then i notice the front half moon is missing..the back one was under the truck...Grief! I see it at the bottom of the timing chain cover so i duct taped 3 foot of the skinnier water hose to my shop vac hose to suck it up. the skinnier hose made it down and grabbed it but it fell and not visible now. I tried more but No.. i need it to curve now to reach it. I can rig that up but Id rather just remove the Oil Pan for it but i dont know what it looks like down there and if that is just not going to work. of course i need my only transportation here to get to work etc asap. Thank you for any/all help. -Wayne. -Las Vegas NV.

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