A-ko

I double checked last night and my parts car does indeed have the block plate installed. I can't remember if the junkyard '79 210 I pulled the transmission from had the spacer plate or not. I'd run the setup I had, but the car had a conventional 5-speed in it rather than the dogleg that will be going in. Hopefully I can figure out which carrier I need. I believe I should have both types on hand. Thanks!

I just finished putting together an A15 for my B210, and I'm at the point where I'm about to put on the flywheel. However, Neither the A15 I bought to rebuild, nor the worn-out A14 I pulled out of the car had the block or spacer plate between the engine and transmission, and I can't even find a photo of one for an A-series online. I checked my parts car and it doesn't appear to have one between the engine and transmission for me to pull out either. Did these engines not use a block/spacer plate between the engine and transmission? If they didn't, that's good news for me. Any help is much appreciated. EDIT: I finally found a photo of one digging deeper on the wiki. Not sure if it will be critical for my application, I am going to be using a dogleg 5-speed...

Your wording was clear, but I'm not sure how I'm supposed to move a wheel that's on the ground with the entire weight of the car on it still, while its in gear, with one half of the rear end up in the air sitting on a floor jack. Do you see my confusion?

I'm not so sure how I'm going to be able to move the wheel thats on the ground no matter what. Do you mean turn the wheel that's still on the ground (somehow), or do you mean try turning the one wheel thats jacked up and in the air? With one wheel jacked up, whether it be driver or passenger, when it's in the air with the transmission in gear the wheel that's in the air is locked solid, cannot move it no matter how hard i try. Not sure if that is useful information or not. Still curious.

Hi all, my original 1972 Datsun 510 was totally stock when I got it, and sat in a garage since 1990. Tonight I got under it and was checking my driveshaft (rear U-joint is failing) and as i rotated the driveshaft, both wheels turn the same direction. I put the car up on jackstands in gear, and both wheels are driving forward and if you slow one down, it eventually slows the other one down as well. Am I correct in thinking this means it has a limited-slip differential? Was that even an option on the 510? I've of course seen people talk about the Subaru R160 differentials as an upgrade, but I'm wondering what's up here as this was just a totally normal stock car being used as a daily driver in the 70s-80s. Maybe I'm just thinking wrong. Looking to see what the deal is.

i may get a new radiator anyway, i’ve had old ones leak eventually and would rather just start with a good one. i never had temperature issues in town at all, only when going 65+. i’ll probably try out the CLR on my current one first just to see if that helps.

brand new TESTED thermostat. I've had so many brand new thermostats be bad out of the box, I always confirm they work before installation now. Nope, brand new hoses. I may try this. Yep, I always run fan shrouds if I have them. No significant blockage in the fins. Heater is hooked up, works great, and doesn't leak. As I said in my previous post, I am running the old non-clutch pump with a 4-blade fan. I mainly did this because I wasn't sure if the L20B fan would fit in the stock shroud without cutting it. Would like to avoid that if possible.

Alright all, been putting a lot of miles on the 510 lately, engine break-in is complete, it runs amazing and everything is working great now. Been basically daily driving it whenever I need to go anywhere. No big issues. However, and yes I understand how a cooling system works etc...just curious where the temp gauge usually is when running at interstate speeds. Been driving it on the interstate now and usually am maintaining between 65-75 MPH. After about 10-15 miles of maintained high speeds, the factory temp gauge has usually crept up to the needle being between the "M" and "P" of "TEMP", sometimes at the P. It has never gone into the red at all, and usually if I hit the "P" I drop my speed a little bit. I'm just wondering if this is pretty normal on a 510 or more specifically an L20B, as it's still technically in the "safe" area of the gauge, or if I should look into this more. I have had several 70's Toyotas and even when going 80+ the temp gauge is almost always in the middle. Should I be concerned, or is this pretty normal for these cars? I really don't want to go through a bunch of troubleshooting if that's just "how it is". I will note that I'm running an L16 style water pump, no clutch, 4-blade fan. Would going to a clutch style setup with the 7-blade fan be recommended?

oops! I found it because I was curious about these things and forgot it was an ancient thread, haha! Did anybody figure out for sure how to hook these things up since then?

Are you sure it relies on an external ignition box? I have a chinese electronic distributor in my '68 Chevy van and all the electronics are hidden inside, no external box needed. The old Civic CDI distributors from the '80s also have no external box, everything is done inside the distributor. I'm wondering if it doesn't just take in straight 12V and just do everything internally. I wouldn't be surprised.

well, new question: Rear end clunk: going over bumps and stuff I get clunking in the rear end. It's not the gas tank, it's not the spare tire or anything else loose in the trunk or anywhere else in the car. Shocks seem to be working correctly and are tightly mounted. Would this most likely be a result of worn out subframe bushings? I notice when I jack the car up by the differential, there is a decent sized gap between the bushings and the plates they sit on, but maybe that's intentional.

I had a loose fitting cap like this and i just took the gasket off another one and doubled it up. Fits tight now. Or just cut one out of an old innertube or something to stack on there. Easy fix.

On a long shakedown run today. So happy to finally be driving a 510.

Putting on the non-vented gas cap resulted in about 60 miles of uninterrupted driving. Fingers crossed it actually resolved the issue. Thanks again.

One second look, my ‘71 parts car has a cap like the ‘72, just without the vent hole. Going to try it. ‘71 non-vented is on the bottom.