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About dougfj62

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  • Gender
    Not Telling
  • Location
    San Diego
  • Cars
    1988 Toyota Land Cruiser FJ62, 1972 Datsun 510, 2000 Lexus LX470
  • Interests
    Guitars, working on cars, TLC FJ62,Datsun 510
  1. Shout out to the Ratsun Community!!! Rewired as shown in the posted diagrams to a 1990 Nissan Maxima internal regulated alternator. Connected wires with solder, shrink wrap and tape for vibration/rubbing. Have oil and charge light when ignition is on and when car is started light goes out as it should. While running the battery shows steady 13.7V at the battery. Issue has been solve with simple rewiring.
  2. @thisismatt , @Draker and @datzenmike I am week behind had to drop our daughter off at college this weekend. Appreciate the information and I do get it now. Makes complete sense. I have no problem with wiring and willing to dive into the deep end. I want to make sure I do this right the first time so I don't screw it up. I want to either jump wires after the external regulator plug or straight into the the connector plug. I can wire the alternator plug with connectors that will plug into the external voltage regulator plug, white and white/Red. Do I even need to keep the plug connected into the external voltage regulator since I am not using the ignition to start the car (push Button)? I did start the car without it plugged in and started instantly. I just want to confirm with you all I have this correct in my head. 1. The green wire (sensing wire) from the alternator plug will wire into the white/red 2. The yellow wire ( 12V ignition ON) from alternator plug will wire into the white Again thanks to all helping me out with this.
  3. Thank you all for the advice/suggestions! Appreciate the feedback. Just to clarify, the alternator was installed by previous owner, but I have not confirmed it is correct. I took multiple photos of the alternator before having rebuilt and installed as it was before. The car drove fine for months until this gremlin appeared. This morning went to check the wiring and went to start up the car. the oil and charge lights now light up when I activate the electric fuel pump, which it was not doing before. I start the car and the charge light is now STAYING ON while the car is running. ??? This might sound like a stupid question , but if the charge light is on then there is power to it. Right? Should I unravel the electrical tape to determine if the connections are correct as depicted in the above graphics? Thanks Doug Alternator/ Plug unit Pic White/Red connected to voltage to battery Black Ground attached to alternator and to fender ground. Green/Green from Plug (sending unit ) was connected to ground and now connected to voltage to battery Yellow to Red from Plug is not connected to anything. Alternator/ To Starter Pic White plug to red plug from alternator + Yellow is the push start button Red is a relay for electric fan on radiator.
  4. I am stumped why the battery is not charging after some upgrades. Here are the details for a 1972 510 I have been slowly putting back together over the last year. 1. Rebuilt 1990 Nissan Maxima 90 amp alternator 204-334B. had it retested after being rebuilt and is generating 14.2Volts(Sept 18th,2018) 2. Brand New Red Top Optima battery(Sept 17th, 2018 ) relocated to the trunk. All wires and grounds checked, cleaned and tighten 3. New Coil 4. New NGK plugs and wires 5. Rebuilt distributor - I set cylinder one to TDC and set engining timing. Car runs great as long as the battery is charged! 6. New Weber 32/36 carb installed I do not use the key ignition to start the car. previous owner installed a push button start system. Battery voltage without starting the car is 12.6V. Start the car, no fuses are blown, the charge light has never come on, check the battery and the voltage reads 12.1V. If I check the voltage at the alternator with the car running , I still measure 12.1V. If I turn on the lights they will last about 10mins before dying. If I drive the car a short distance the car starts lurching bc the battery is losing charge. This seems like a bad alternator to me. I have checked every wire from alternator and did not locate any bad wires. Is it possible that alternator is just not regulating the voltage correctly even though it checks out? The alternator was done by a shop specializing in rebuilding starters and alternators in north county San Diego. They have been great by checking the alternator and telling me there are no issues. What other alternator can I install or try in place of the 1990Maxima 90amp alternator. Let me know what you all think this gremlin could be.
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