Jump to content

CamoKing

Members
  • Content Count

    40
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

11 Neutral

About CamoKing

  • Rank
    Newbie

Profile Information

  • Location
    Santa Fe, NM
  • Cars
    Fiat, Scion, Chevy 1500
  • Interests
    Electronics, fishing, billiards,

Recent Profile Visitors

440 profile views
  1. One link down on the crank sprocket over the 'dimple' ------ Found the BRIGHT Links. Looks like there in the right place:: You got that right, Mr. -- Steeeeep learning curve! Not out of the woods yet but feels much closer. Still much to re-install. The use of RTV gasket goo bugs me .. I am under the assumption that all the gaskets I have to use are to be applied without RTV -- Maybe in a few instances a dab here and there to hold things in place??
  2. Thanks < Datzenmike. I found the second bright link after bathing the chain...surprise! There are 31 links between these two links, not 38. What am I missing? If one bright link sits on #2 punch mark of the cam sprocket and the other bright link engages the crank sprocket on its punch mark, then all is well? Now I am questioning how one can remove/install the oil pump in ONE piece. My manual suggest that the cross member under the front differential should be removed for clearance. Not only is this difficult but the obstacle really lies in the bracket that houses the cross member. They are welded to the frame so not coming out. I can insert the drive spindle part way and try to keep the two dots in line but, is there a better way?
  3. Thanks for the pointers, Mike, Hainz. I got the timing cover off to find the tensioner was popped out for sure; and the spring bent!. Now I find only one 'bright' link on the chain? There should be a certain number of links between this bright one and another one, right?? If I place this link on the punch/dimple on the crank sprocket then I need 'X' number of links between it and the #3 point on the cam sprocket?? Without another bright link I am guessing..... I did buy some new timing parts from AutoZone and , yes, the tensioner is CLOYES...( didn't see your post in time, Hainz) ):
  4. I did do the tapping thing, Mike, with a 10oz. non-marring dead blow hammer --- no movement. I might put the pulley back on a try again. I just needed to know that this piece is indeed slid on probably with keyed ways and NOT threaded . Thanks for your help.
  5. That is what I think, Hainz. For all AMATEURS out there -- Be cautious when using the wood block/wedge method of hold the timing chain. I was under the impression that the main point was to keep it from falling off the crank sprocket when , if fact, it is more important that the tensioner gets held tightly in place.
  6. Well, I think the Permatex Red is permanent? BUt, now I see the butterflies have are not closing tightly; small slivers of light coming through. Back to the bench ):
  7. What is this? The front pulley came off with 5 bolts . I've given up on trying to get the chain on. THere is No slack and the links are being pushed together as seen down in this oily hole. I've take on the challenge of removing the timing cover. 3 hrs into it; almost there. I can free the cover now a little an see that the tension spring has slipped out of its retainer. Almost there.....stuck with this piece on the crank shaft What is the right way to get this off?? Thanks for your help...
  8. Hi, Hainz. I looped some bale wire under the chain and lashed it to the hood latch overhead, keep tension. Then pulled the wooden wedge/block out. Worked the sprocket on to my paint marks until it was almost in then looped some bale wire in its holes in the same fashion; allowing me to cut the bale wire from the chain itself. All in all I thought it worked well and tension was maintained on the chain. I think that my mistake was at the beginning where the wedge did not push against the tensioner enough...... Wow, I see that the Alltrade Holder has a really nice contour to compress/conform much better. Should have, could have , would have...thought I was doing OK. Next time I'd use this (if there is a next time)...
  9. Mike, I used a wood block made to the dimensions in the workshop manual. It apparently did not exert enough 'push' to hold the tensioner in. ): I'm just starting the day. Will take all your recommendations to the truck. Thanks for the help. Maybe I DON't have to buy another head gasket, too. What fun!
  10. Here I go again asking for your indulgence in my pursuit of a refurbished '82 720, 4X4, Z22. Ratsun is a great source of information and advice. Cudos to all who participate and perpetuate this site. Well I finally put the head back on today; torqued methodically. Then, struggling to get the cam sprocket back on, it became clear that the likelihood of chain tensioner slippage was high. I am able to get the sprocket to 'hang' on the cam peg, but can't muscle it any further. It is almost there but this does not seem acceptable. Tomorrow, I will challenge the tensioner to a wrestling match?!!?.... So, if I have to go to the trouble of removing the timing cover, do I have to remove the head and get a new gasket? OR, Can I just loosen all the head bolts and leave it that way for the time it takes to get the chain tensioner back in position? IS a just installed head gasket reusable?? Thanks.
  11. I couldn't just stop at cleaning, new gaskets, and a few other replacement parts from a kit. I had to tear the whole Hitachi DCR342 down to be thorough...including removal of the choke and lower butterfly plates. This was a learning experience. Wonderful! I've learned the term: STAKING After discovering that the screws were staked, I used a dremel to grind the ends and free them. (And, render them useless) Of course, that led me on a hunt for new screws which I found at Ace Hardware luckily. Each plate had a pair of different length screws leading me to an arduous mini milling task that, after several frustrating hours, and several rejects, yielded 3 pairs of new screws. I've reassembled these parts using some Permatex Red thread locker hoping that will suffice. The question arises then as to whether or not I need to 'stake' these little suckers and, if so, how does a 'back yard' novice mechanic with limited tools accomplish such a thing ?
  12. Back again with another request for advice. Thanks for all the help you've been lending from this great Ratsun.net. I couldn't just stop at cleaning, new gaskets, and a few other replacement parts from a kit. I had to tear the whole Hitachi DCR342 down to be thorough...including removal of the choke and lower butterfly plates. This was a learning experience. Wonderful! I've learned the term: STAKING After discovering that the screws were staked, I used a dremel to grind the ends and free them. (And, render them useless) Of course, that led me on a hunt for new screws which I found at Ace Hardware luckily. Each plate had a pair of different length screws leading me to an arduous mini milling task that, after several frustrating hours, and several rejects, yielded 3 pairs of new screws. I've reassembled these parts using some Permatex Red thread locker hoping that will suffice. The question arises then as to whether or not I need to 'stake' these little suckers and, if so, how does a 'back yard' novice mechanic with limited tools accomplish such a thing ?
  13. Thanks, Mike. There was no replacement in the kit from Auto Zone. Do you know of a kit that includes one??
  14. I might be assuming incorrectly that spring wire is supposed to hold the needle in place. Maybe it just 'links' the end of the needle with the tab of the float?? Set up like this: Installed like this: Am I headed in the right direction? Time for a coffee break!!
  15. My carburetor rebuild has hit a snag. Could you lend me some expertise with regard to replacing the needle valve and seat?? THank you again for any help. On the left is what the KIT has offered; on the right is what I took off the carb. It looks like I could use the KIT version. They are equal in length/ pin to base....But I can't figure how the heck the supplied spring thing fits on it? Is there some other way of holding that needle in? Before I do something awful I need some guidance as to the 'ins & outs' of a needle valve and seat for this Hitachi DCR342 I am trying to rebuild. Also, is there some place I can get a replacement/new fuel screen??
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.