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About CamoKing

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  • Location
    Santa Fe, NM
  • Cars
    Fiat, Scion, Chevy 1500
  • Interests
    Electronics, fishing, billiards,

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  1. Back again with another request for advice. Thanks for all the help you've been lending from this great Ratsun.net. I couldn't just stop at cleaning, new gaskets, and a few other replacement parts from a kit. I had to tear the whole Hitachi DCR342 down to be thorough...including removal of the choke and lower butterfly plates. This was a learning experience. Wonderful! I've learned the term: STAKING After discovering that the screws were staked, I used a dremel to grind the ends and free them. (And, render them useless) Of course, that led me on a hunt for new screws which I found at Ace Hardware luckily. Each plate had a pair of different length screws leading me to an arduous mini milling task that, after several frustrating hours, and several rejects, yielded 3 pairs of new screws. I've reassembled these parts using some Permatex Red thread locker hoping that will suffice. The question arises then as to whether or not I need to 'stake' these little suckers and, if so, how does a 'back yard' novice mechanic with limited tools accomplish such a thing ?
  2. Thanks, Mike. There was no replacement in the kit from Auto Zone. Do you know of a kit that includes one??
  3. I might be assuming incorrectly that spring wire is supposed to hold the needle in place. Maybe it just 'links' the end of the needle with the tab of the float?? Set up like this: Installed like this: Am I headed in the right direction? Time for a coffee break!!
  4. My carburetor rebuild has hit a snag. Could you lend me some expertise with regard to replacing the needle valve and seat?? THank you again for any help. On the left is what the KIT has offered; on the right is what I took off the carb. It looks like I could use the KIT version. They are equal in length/ pin to base....But I can't figure how the heck the supplied spring thing fits on it? Is there some other way of holding that needle in? Before I do something awful I need some guidance as to the 'ins & outs' of a needle valve and seat for this Hitachi DCR342 I am trying to rebuild. Also, is there some place I can get a replacement/new fuel screen??
  5. So, really this is only for a turbo charged engine......(what would I do with all that HP!?!?)
  6. Remote oil filter __?? What is it? Is there any advantage to having one?
  7. This '82, 720 w/Z22 has four threads milled around the oil filter mount. I find nothing other than the block surface on which the oil filter gasket rests. Are these threads there for a part I am missing? A Spacer flange? Specialized mating surface?? Just curious. What gives? If it is a part, can I get it somewhere? Thanks in advance for any comments.
  8. "Put it together as best you can and then start setting the TDC more accurately. After this is perfect the cam position can be checked and if needed, adjusted." Thanks, Mike. I think I follow. But, I need to be sure of the procedure in detail. Is it like this: 1) Do the 'pencil' test for TDC. 2) Check the cam position by looking at the relative position of the sprocket notch to the casting mark on the head - right? 3) If it is not in-line or just a little to the right, take the chain off, rotate cam until the optimum point is reached, wrestle the chain back on.
  9. Initially, before I pulled the head, (there was no timing mark on the main crank pulley) I arrived @TDC on #1 in compression by viewing through the spark plug holes, watching the cam lobes on #1 go to '8' and '4' , and examining the distributor rotor to verify a TDC position. I'm pretty sure on got it spot on. So, on this engine, you should expect to see any intake valve opening before the piston is heading down. This is why it is called Before Top Dead Center timing/ BTDC. AM I getting this right? The point where #4 intake starts to open is a little over 1 tooth before reaching that alignment between the notch and the casting line. Given that there are 40 teeth on the sprocket, a tooth would be equivalent to 4.5˚- confirming that the sprocket is where it should be AND I am looking a the correct timing of about 5˚ BTDC!! (I might have learned something)
  10. I am at the point of reinstalling the head on this '82, 720, Z22 and find following Mike's instructions, getting the notch to align with the casting mark, the intake valve on #4 has started to open. Is this going to be a timing problem?
  11. (I can't upload to Imgur for some reason-F*!'in web ): But anyhow, Yes the painted link/tooth correspond to the V notch/dimple on the sprocket 2 hole. I guess this is the placement. All this sweating for nothing? Still, it seems like the intake valve on 4 comes really close to 'interfering' with the piston. Maybe that is just the way it is. However, FYI, in re-working this head, I found all 4 intake valves slightly bent. Bought new intake valves. Wondering why this happened and trying to eliminate the chances of this happening again.
  12. Thanks, Hainz...I can't move the chain. It is sitting on the 'wedge block'. I have not taken the timing cover off so no access to the crank end of the chain. I do NOT want it to drop. I did notice that there is a bright link about 6 links down to the left of where I have my painted link. I will try to add some images to be clear. Probably should just put it back the way I found it.
  13. Morning, campers...I am at the point of returning the head to the block! on this '82, 720, Z22. It has been months since I tore into this job. I did paint the timing chain link and corresponding sprocket tooth but I did not recognize or record which sprocket hole was fit on the cam pin. I am choosing hole 2 as the likely position. Now, I am wondering if that previous position was altogether correct. Here is why: The pistons (block in the truck) are @TDC --#1 and #4 are all the way up...(chain with yellow paint on wedged block)........so, in the head, the valves in #1 and #4 should be completely closed tight - right? But when I place the 'V' notch on the sprocket just right of the casting mark on the head, the intake valve in #4 starts to open. Is this OK??. If the notch is a little left of the casting mark, intake #4 is closed. I am tempted to install this way. But, my gut feeling is to go with the cam in this position ------------------notch aligned with casting line....(sorry, the casting line, mid Right, is fuzzy; you can see the notch on the sprocket far left) If it is critical to have intake #4 fully closed, my painted sprocket tooth will be between 1 and 2 links to the left of the painted chain link. Or, I'm guessing, the intake on #4 should be opening when #1 is @TDC. ; making it about 5˚ BTDC???
  14. Following lapping, light slivers were observed when viewing valve closure through ports; then I set up a jig with dial caliper to confirm the lack of concentric-ness (?) The fire ring of the old gasket is definitely broken @cyl.#4 but not anywhere else. I'm guessing this pitting occurred before I got the truck. I imagine that such a thing would happen very fast.
  15. (I'd been driving this truck for only about two months. I know little of its long standing history other than it was used and abused.) This is what I saw after pulling a Z22 head from an '82 720 King following gasket failure. What does all this pitting due to?? Detonation? Is this piston headed for failure? It is mostly on cylinder 4, but 3 shows some, too. I've also discovered that the intake valves are slightly bent (all 4, about the same). I can 't really do anything about this but I am wondering if it is worth proceeding with this basic head-job and putting all back together. This is chamber #4 of the head.
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