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About CamoKing

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  • Location
    Santa Fe, NM
  • Cars
    Fiat, Scion, Chevy 1500
  • Interests
    Electronics, fishing, billiards,

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  1. Don't think the oil pump is a problem. Primed when returned to the truck with new gasket. I am seeing psi about 35 psi @1000 rpm (about 1/4" to the left of 45 psi mark on the gauge). Getting back to the 'oil spill', I ran it yesterday watching for leaks. NO LEAKS. Warmed up, idling fair w/lash returned to cold setting. Sounds OK for now. Still - NO LEAKs. Just like the other day BEFORE backing out for a test drive which was aborted due to lack of power steering. I intend to put the pump on when its running better. A-HA. The lines to the power steering pump may still have some fluid in them. I don't know the mechanics here but I am guessing that by turning the wheels some fluid could be forced out of an open line. Is that possible? Indeed, I find that one of the lines did not have a plug in it and it is kinda pointing toward the cooling fan. Add to this the nagging fact that the color of the fluid found pooling in several places was not really looking like motor oil, new or old; it was reddish orange. Conclusion: I think that when I backed out and did some turning on to the street, power steering fluid burped out toward the fan and spewed into the engine bay. Does this sound like a plausible explanation. ?? I will proceed working under the assumption that NO MOTOR OIL IS LEAKING. I won't be back under the hood for a few days to run out in the street WITH the PS lines plugged. But I think this topic has come to a close. ON deck: burning oil Thanks for all your help !
  2. Hi, Hainz. Short history. I ran the truck for about 750 miles many, many months ago. As soon as I got it, I had the oil changed w/filter. That is the same 'generic' filter returned to the truck weeks ago upon replacing the oil . I know, I know. That may be a mistake . But I was intending to get a quality filter after an initial tune/run period; flush/drain refill w/new filter. The oil pump: Lacking experience, I did not secure the timing chain properly while working on the top end. Needed to take the timing cover off to get things right and replace the bent tensioner. During this process I did remove the oil pump and returned it containing some oil. Do you think it is not working or barely working? Oil pressure seems to be where it was before this whole rebuild started (according to the gauge in the console). WHAT is a usual oil psi reading? Get the picture...I have more time than brains or $$ on my hands. Thanks for the comments
  3. To be clear -- run it without the fan ?? (and also the alternator which is on the same belt) Never done that. I guess you can do it safely for a short period in idle. Lacking skill I'll always take any luck. Thanks
  4. Really appreciate you response, Mike. To answer - Yes, yes, and yes. I wish I could say you nailed it with your tip about the oil switch. Hadn't considered that at all. Alas,..... .....The oil pressure switch/sending unit is dry as a bone. I think this darn cork gasket is involved but I can't imagine it would lead profusely and send oil out with force. Proceeding to put the cover back on and start up to observe. Cleaned out most of the spewed oil and have placed some plastic over areas in the line of 'fire'. I will pay special attention to the oil switch area this time. Thanks.
  5. I did install both plugs, Mike though FELpro shorted me one. The set only had one so I used an old one up front. I did smear RTV and it is in place. No leaking there. THanks.
  6. Many thanks for the reply to my exasperating situation. I'm calmer today. Power steering has not been reinstalled yet. I'm still bugged by the color contrast between the oil in the head and what I see coming out and on the dipstick. But, that will be dismissed for now. Here is a scenario that provides a plausible explanation for the presence of oil in the fan and below the radiator. : Oil is being 'projected' on to the hood's underside, flowing downward due to gravity to the cooling fan, dripping between the radiator and fan (I do not have the cowling/hood installed) -- and THEN being spewed back in to the bay. Some oil is bound to be trapped in the fan's pocket. I can imagine this happening when the oil fill cap is off because the timing chain would sling oil up and out. But this cap is on tight. Oil must be squirting from somewhere else. And, if that "hood scenario" is correct, the oil has to be shooting upwards. No two ways about it. I must fire it up and observe; this time with plastic protective covers on the vulnerable areas. (And more coffee)
  7. WIll do...after I get a new cover gasket. For now, I'd like to relate today's observations which may have bearing upon this oily subject. I see oil around intake sparks #1 , #2, and in nearby recesses on the intake manifold. This 'fugitive' oil like most oil retrieved from other areas is light colored and looking fresh. All the oil seen in the head is as black as night. The oil on the dipstick is clear and golden. WTF? If oil leaked from the head, it would expect it to be black. Right? Why oh why isn't the oil in the head looking fresh? Oil pump not working? Oil pick up too gunked up? Clogged passages? Seems like there is an oil circulation problem here. View of spark plug #1 and #2 Black oil in head galley Also, the plugs from #1 & #2 are oily...... Oil in the combustion chamber. I can't deal with failing piston rings (there has been some oil burning during initial start-up). I'd like to find a way to diagnose the apparent oil circulation problem ; and maybe solve it. I'd like to get this truck running at least as good as it was before all this tear down. But first, I need to eliminate the cover gasket as a source of leaking oil. Off to the auto parts store to order some new cork with fingers crossed.
  8. Look down at the cooling fan with oily blades and a little pool on the low point.: Thanks, Hainz. That is what I thought. I may be over-tight. I'm wondering how many times one can take the cover off/on before the cork loses 'suppleness'. I have been Off & On at least 6 times so far. It does seem to be leaking around intake plugs #1 & #2 and down the block on that side. I may have to buy a new gasket after all. However, I am really puzzled by the oil puddle in the recess of the cooling fan facing the radiator ? If the cover gasket leaks, how could oil get to the front of the fan??
  9. Looking for answers today, Mike. Is the cork gasket problematic? I RTV'd it to the rocker cover and left the head side naked. Also, how much torque is usually applied to the valve cover bolts?
  10. MESS is right! I hadn't put the cowling back on so oil droplets made their way to the outside surface of the hood; Up UP and AWAY....jeez
  11. Once again, I ask for this great RATSUN site for member's indulgence on a problem I face with this '82 Datsun 720, Z22. Proceeding along with the rebuild, I installed a reman. alternator and returned to the 'tuning' and valve clearance. Because of the ticking after the 'hot' set last week, I set the lash cold to see if ticking would stop or be reduced. It fired up nicely and it seemed I was on track to setting a smoother idle. So, I backed out of my driveway to spin around the block and heat it up; changed my mind since it was getting late. I was 'driving' for only about 10 minutes. Opened the hood to find that oil had been spewed over almost everything! Mostly toward the driver's side front. A significant amount was puddled below the radiator and the cooling fan had oil sitting in its front recess facing the radiator?!? The inside of the hood was dripping. Oil was on the firewall. Obviously, the cooling fan was slinging oil. Where was it coming from? Though this is a substantial leak, its location is not obvious; it is late in the day, too. First guess implicates the rocker cover gasket which is a new cork style from the set I purchased for my head rebuild. However this does not account for the magnitude of oil and its presence on the opposite side of the cooling fan. Could oil be making its way through the water pump and in to the fan ?? If so, I should see oil in the coolant, right? This oil leak was not evident at all during last week's initial start up. All I did today was set a cold valve lash and install a reman. alternator. It was idling better. With all that oil I wonder if the front main seal blew; I don't think all this oil would be found up top. Can't find the source. 😞 This is a new problem. I was expecting the unexpected in the process of 'waking this engine up' after a months of sleeping. But, today's oil shower may signal a conclusion to this adventure in auto mechanics. Where is this oil leaking from? Thanks
  12. Thanks for the responses to this special subject. Given my situation, I think I will go back and set 'cold' (.008" - intake, .009" -exhaust), idle it up to hot temp, than pull the cover of an check to see where the valve lash has landed. Curious to see the results. But, things must wait as I am leaving town for a while, AND I have discovered that the alternator is toast! Going to the parts store when I get back to see what I can get in the re-manufactured area. I'll get back to the work next week. thanks again for all the informative comments..
  13. The engine had been idling for at least 20 minutes. I did not see the coolant temp rise any more. . I actually put a digital thermometer in the oil trough to get a read of temperature decline. It was 182º when I 'got in' and dropped about 12º during my time adjusting. Does that seem HOT enough? I will try again but I don't see how one can gain access and perform the adjustments so quickly. I guess practice makes perfect. What bugs me is that it seems that there was no ticking on initial idle where lash was at a cold setting.
  14. Novice owner/mechanic with this '82 720 4x4 king back again with questions regarding valve lash on this Z22. Some Background : This DIY project started many months ago as a head gasket replacement. I was subsequently drawn into a great deal more including a carb rebuild and a refurbishment of the head replacing seals, lapping, and getting new intake valves after discovering that they weren't seating fully; slightly bent. It has been reassembled and thoroughly cleaned over this Summer; I replaced all fluids, gassed up 5 gals. and turned the ignition key last week preparing for the 'fine tuning' . Initially, the idle was very high (though I was glad it started up!) and resisted any adjustments until I found that the fast idle cam seemed to be sticking. I did get the idle tamed but I couldn't sustain anything near 850 rpm; more like 1,000 rpm. OK. It was running roughly, but running. Not too bad, I thought. After all, the valves were set cold during head reassembly and everything has been sitting for many months. Note: I do not recall any unusual noises during this phase of start up. As prescribed, I proceeded to do a hot valve adjustment. Did it in about a half hour. Back to idle to hear ticking/clicking noise from the head!! Thought I messed up on the clearances. Came back at it later in the day to try again. Did it in much less than a half hour. Same results ): Tick, tick, tick and still idling roughly (and burning oil - that's another issue). I think I know when the gauge 'feels' right; a moderate drag when pulling. I was expecting the idle to smooth out a bit and proceed to check timing....I think I need to address this noise first. What is going on here? Could it be a problem with lubrication? It doesn't look like the head is being starved of lubricant though I am seeing blackened oil in the galley whereas the dipstick looks fresh.(?)-- Residue old oil and gunk from months ago? The oil pressure gauge reads as before around 35 psi. Maybe there isn't enough new oil getting to the valves rocker arms? Can I run the engine with the rocker arm cover off to view oil distribution? I'm thinking of resetting the clearances back to 'cold' and listening for any noise. But, then what? ANY feedback would be appreciated. Thanks
  15. Sho' nuff, Mike......It reads: FS5W71B. WAS a 5 speed.
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