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thaibuddie

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About thaibuddie

  • Rank
    Newbie

Profile Information

  • Location
    Marin County California
  • Cars
    1973 510 2dr
  • Interests
    Fun stuffs, motorcycles are especially fun...mt bikes, skateboards and just having fun
  1. All fixed. It was the ignition coil which I replaced with a $10 Nippondenso coil that I purchased locally and came with it's matching ballast resistor. With all the maintenance I've recently done it's never run better! It is noteworthy that I was convinced that the intermittent troubles were a fuel delivery issue, but when it gave me multiple no-start conditions I knew that it was something else (as I could see that it was getting fuel). Thanks to datzenmike and banzai510(hainz) for the replies, I will be posting here more regularly trying to get my 510 in the best condition that I can afford...it's been with me since 1998! -Ti
  2. I was actually convinced that I had a fuel delivery problem (and may still) with a good startup and initial drive before hitting the freeway or hard driving conditions, then it can be really spotty. But the last couple of drives it just dies after getting warmed up and there's no starting it... I pulled the air filter and can see that if I actuate the linkage - gas will shoot into the barrel(s) like it should. Like I said most everything that had been neglected has been addressed, and it's running like a true 1.6 L bat out of 2020 HELL (at times when it wants to), but each and every drive it gives me serious sputtering and lack of performance under certain hard driving or initial load conditions. Even rolling acceleration can be a problem from cruising(?) I had suspected a problem with the vacuum advance diaphragm (or fuel delivery), but now that it will not start (when warmed up) I'm pretty sure that it is something else. I did not make it clear that there is some aftermarket ignition coil (pictured below) that I have no faith in. I checked the secondary resistance and it was much lower than specified based on the YOUTUBE VIDEO that I was following (which I understand is not an L16) and the spec that my Haynes manual lists for the OEM coil. I am more of an mechanic (not electrically inclined) - so maybe I am barking up the wrong tree... I already purchased the Nippondenso coil that I had previously linked, so I am hoping that's the fix - I think I'll have it installed by early next week. Any suggestions are appreciated, there is very little that hasn't been worked out here, so by all means chime in... Thank you!!!
  3. I would prefer to reserve my last can of Racer Red for when my drum brakes need a re-coat... Seriously though, that sounds simple enough but aside from trolling craigslist and ebay ... do you have any suggestions? I'm hoping that I can find a replacement quickly, I'd rather be driving...does this listing apply? MAYBE THIS? Thank you!
  4. L16 in a 1973 510, I think everything is pretty much stock except for the Weber 32/36 DGC carb. Dual points distributor with ballast resistor. Secondary resistance test on the coil currently in the car way out of spec and *I believe* that is what is causing me major problems intermittently as I have replaced most other suspects to get to this point... I searched a bit - just looking for a solid recommendation to get my car back on the road (recently resurrected from the dead). Much appreciated, my 2yo loves riding shotgun! Thank you!!
  5. Good to know pdp8, thank you. Overall the car is in really good shape and just needs a fresh coat of paint, however, some moderate damage to the front passenger’s side. Will need an amount of uni-body straightening just at that front corner. I have all new panels needed from FutoFab, so not a lot of sheet metal panel work. I’m not looking for show car quality, just some good work to get my 510 going again from a bad day 8 years ago...
  6. I am looking for a body shop recommendation in my area. My friend has a shop that he trusts, but he has too many projects in the queue and it seems like I will never get my turn. Any references are appreciated.
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