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About Beastlikethat1

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  • Gender
    Not Telling
  • Location
    Louisville, KY
  • Cars
    1978 280Z , 1977 620 , 1972 521
  • Interests
    Cars, guitar and in college for PC hardware engineering

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  1. Time Left: 7 days and 21 hours

    • FOR SALE
    • USED

    Video of truck driving in the rain: https://youtu.be/J259GU8Dzxk A lot more pictures: http://imgur.com/gallery/FVf49kp I'm selling this 1977 Datsun 620 KingCab Pickup Truck. It has 80xxx miles on the body. It now has a Z24 block with a JDM L16 head with ported and polished valves, browns racing cam and hardened seats, forged internals, turbo head bolts, new rings, etc. New distributor converted to electronic ignition and pertronix ignition coil. Have only used 93 octane in it. Engine was installed about 8K miles ago.New 280z heavy duty clutch and fly wheel. New throw out bearing on its 5 speed transmission. Fluids changed in trans and diff 8k miles ago with redline fluids.It has rebuilt Twin Nismo Mikuni 44PHH's but they do need to be properly tuned as it has good low end and good high end but hesitates mid range. Comes with a giant kit with rebuild gaskets, springs and about $500 worth of jets.Edelbrock 8psi electric fuel pump and fuel pressure regulator. AEM AFR installed and works great. Full 2.5" SS exhaust from manifold back with SS Magnaflow muffler. Engine was just installed about 10k miles ago and broke in correctly. It will also come with the original L20B and exhaust manifold, intake and carb. Engine ran perfect when pulled. Also will come with extra less aggressive Browns Racing Cam that's never been used. Has front dual piston disc brake conversion with all new calipers, pads and rotors and new shoes in the rear. 17" Nissan Titan rims with decent tires on them. Will also come with OEM steelies with decent tires.Has bluetooth stereo system that works greatThere is some frame surface rust but no holes or soft spots, a couple spots in floor pan and rocker panels are rusty and bubble in paints. Pictures to show.


    LOUISVILLE, Kentucky - US

  2. Ended up getting an internal regulated rebuilt 35 amp and will eventually get a higher amperage alternator! Also I got an 80 psi fuel filter (per Datzenmike's advice). Last question is that EGR clean reminder module, can that simply be removed and unplugged? Of course EGR stuff isn't hooked up anyways sense I can 44PHH's so I figure it can be I just don't want the EGR light to be on. Thanks!
  3. Yes there is an electronic pump, 8PSI and o have Mikunis so I have it dialed down to about 2-3psi. Would you say 8PSI is way too much for that fuel filter? I never thought of that thanks for the heads up.
  4. Ah yes there is; there is another one like it in another spot that's also unused. So I'm assuming I'm not missing anything and this truck was converted to internal regulated possibly, and I bought a externally regulated alternator and maybe that's why I'm not getting a charge?
  5. So the voltage regulator that large black unit? I just didn't see any online that looked like that.
  6. I figure so, there's a round connector near the battery that's been cut and gotten rid of but I'm not sure what was there. Those two relays or whatever they may be were under a black plastic cover which.
  7. I turned the old one in as a core sadly but as I said the inside and outside where black from burning around the charge terminal. Anyways I'm starting to wonder if my truck was converted to internally regulated. Where would the regulator be?
  8. Pics are pretty easy! Sounds like a rad truck ? I have a 77 620 pickup with a Z24 block and L16 head, brown racing cam, twin mikunis and a 5spd
  9. Hey everyone so I'm having a strange issue and I just want to make sure I test everything before throwing more money into my 1977 Datsun 620 Pickup. So the alternator went out in it (luckily I made it home) and you could clearly see where the charge wire burnt along with the nut/ inside of alternator. Replaced alternator with Carquest 14105A and everything went on easy but it isn't charging. Continuity is good between positive terminal and alternator B terminal and battery isn't being charged; BUT if I take off the charge cable from the B terminal it's getting 14V, put it back on it's back down to 12.2 while running (new battery as well). Would you all think voltage regulator as culprit? Also the charge light is on inside the truck as well.
  10. It's been a blast! This engine that was in it just leaked like crazy and the block was cracked and had been welded. All kinds of madness, but I have paperwork saying there was an engine swap some years ago. My roadster seems to be a later 67 so I think it would have came with an aluminum head?
  11. Just thought I'd post some project pics of the swap my buddy and I are doing on my 67 roadster. I paid $3000 for it and it's a late 67 (not half) that had an older engine swapped into it about 20 years ago, has a cast iron head???A buddy had an extra R16 in beautiful original shape with a later number and aluminum head laying around and gave it to me! Along with some clean stock side drafts and headers.
  12. Time Left: 8 days and 13 hours

    • WANTED
    • USED

    Looking for a good L28 or L28ET block or whole engine. I have a 1978 280z that has bad piston rings. Looking for a decent shape engine.


    LOUISVILLE, Kentucky - US

  13. Well it was a machinist and I that worked on it and I polished the valves and put the new seals on. I did feel as though the new seals we're kind of "sketchy" as in some of thoughs little C clips just didn't feel as tight as they should. That would be a good place to start too.
  14. I need to do a leak down. I believe I was around 140psi except one cylinder was like 115psi
  15. I'll be sure to check that out, I adjusted the valves not too long ago but maybe it's that. And I only seem to ever see l24's and on eBay people want $1,000+ for a 100,000+ mile engine!?
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