Jump to content

sneax

Members
  • Content Count

    43
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

5 Neutral

About sneax

  • Rank
    Newbie
  • Birthday 08/21/1969

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Mexico & BC Canada
  • Cars
    1960 MGA with L20B, 1969 Plymouth Roadrunner
  • Interests
    Racing!
    vintage cars
    Lambrettas and vintage scooters
    traveling the world in my RV.
  • Occupation
    I am occupied with not dying!
  1. sneax

    I want bigger valves for this setup, right?

    Hey Its been a while... I am working every day up to 12 hours to get shit done! -Engine mounts are new -trans mount new -tumel new Crossmember cut for half the hight and reenforced -Tubular upper control arms -4 piston brakes with vented rotors -Rebello got the head done and its on the way down to Mexico! -Almost all parts are on the way or here I will post pictures when i have time and patience
  2. sneax

    I want bigger valves for this setup, right?

    aaaand bevor I go to bed for today my lat quetion: Can it be, that the bushing in the neck i in the wrong tilt / angle? the rail from my last post ends in the upper hole on the left side of the neck. Id say thats where should be the outlet for the oil on the bushing. I got it on the opposite side without a channel behind. anyone a trans-neck without bushing? :) Has to come out... ?!?!
  3. sneax

    I want bigger valves for this setup, right?

    so Ive taken both casings off the gearbox to inspect and clean! the screws looked like they had been never opened! Quick question: that tube for a hose at the top... what is it and how is it used originally? I ve counted all the tooth: first: 14 33 second: 19 28 third: 28 26 fourth: 32 21 fifth: 39 21 any thoughts on that? the fifth gear cogs are definitive not as wide as the other 4... so I have to be careful with pedal-to-the-metal in 5th!!! The machinework turned out like this... eem to be a decent job! ... I will drill the two oil holes by hand! now this oil rail for the end-shaft bushing was only sticking in there! normal it seemed to be attached by this tiny rivet, I think!?!?!? inside: outside: should I drill it out and re-attache it with a rivet? or a crew with locktide? or...? thanks
  4. sneax

    I want bigger valves for this setup, right?

    that sound like something I will definitely do! To get that right... I will turn down the flywheel on the surface where the clutch plate is touching it??? about 0.010inch... and how exactly has the step to be at the outer edge of the clutch? just making the space for the clutch to move more into the flywheel while the clutch is mounted on the upper part of the step, right?
  5. sneax

    I want bigger valves for this setup, right?

    Clutch question: Dave Rebello told me to use a 280z clutch! Now i was looking around on ebay and there are plenty diffrrent once - with or without flywheel! I planed to lighten my original flywheel here - cheep and easy! Will the OEM 280z cluch do the job for a 3300km rally? (I know - depends on the driver
  6. sneax

    I want bigger valves for this setup, right?

    Ok... Thanks I am using the big bearing! Will drill the holes! :)
  7. sneax

    I want bigger valves for this setup, right?

    Oh... And whats with the aditional hole? Gets oil on tje other side of the bearings because they are sealed bearings or what? And that other hook thing?
  8. sneax

    I want bigger valves for this setup, right?

    Great! Bellhouse is at the machineshop! $50 and 2hours... Worth it! :) Yes - its 16mm! Thanks
  9. sneax

    I want bigger valves for this setup, right?

    so there are the 3 difference Mike mentioned! drill 16mm hole for the shifter bar - Understood! bigger hole for the bigger bearing - got it! and now i have to lower the surface around the counter shaft bearing (you can see on the two pics) to be the same distance to the middle gasket surface like in the C bellhouse! RIGHT? but there are the 2 other difference ive seen inside. first the oil catch hook thats casted in! and 2nd the additional hole! do i have to reproduce them??? hole = easy oil hook = not easy!!! the new C bellhouse with hook and hole: the old B bellhouse i will use:
  10. sneax

    I want bigger valves for this setup, right?

    The smaller bearing is clear! Will take the one from the B box!The 16mm shift rod hole is clear... Will drill it out! But I am not sure about that 1/2" aroynd the counter shaft bearing! Do yoy mean in the lid that sits inside the bellhouse? because i would just take the old one! Or where?? Thanks! EDIT: I think i understand! The thickness of the case around the two bearings is less in the C gearbox. Therefor i meed to mill off the surface inside the front cover of the gearbox! Right? And i found inside that part of the bellhouse two other changes! There is one more hole - and then there is a little hook castet into it! ??? I upp a pic in a bit! :)
  11. sneax

    I want bigger valves for this setup, right?

    The SECOND circlip! Just discovered that one! HahaThanks Got it!
  12. sneax

    I want bigger valves for this setup, right?

    Hm I opened the screws in the bellhousing, the circlip and the screws around the middle! Then hung it from the bellhouse and tapped it everywhere with a rubber hammer. And now the rear casing came off! How do i get off the front?
  13. sneax

    I want bigger valves for this setup, right?

    Ok thanks Mike Will do that today! So the 56mm bearing from my 71B will do the job? (if its in good shape) Anf the two other things can be done with a grinder and a drill? Ok... Lets see... ;)
  14. sneax

    I want bigger valves for this setup, right?

    And for the identification I found a lot of numbers! Right side big cast letters: TA71B#10 Right side at the shifter: C2606426 And an metal label attached to a screw on the right side in the middle: 2S700-1 AESWK 01 32010F4030~1 0062 ??? :)
  15. sneax

    I want bigger valves for this setup, right?

    Hey I just got the 2 Datsun L engine books - and for some reasons I thought the gearbox will be covered by them as well. So now I have more gearbox questions - 1. the 71C is stronger right? 2. How do i identify the gearbox and gearing? 3. how complicated is it to change the bellhousing? open the screws In the bellhouse and in the middle and extract? ;)
×

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.