Jump to content

G8KeaPoR

Members
  • Content count

    47
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

15 OK

About G8KeaPoR

  • Rank
    Newbie
  • Birthday April 13

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Not Telling
  • Location
    Virginia
  • Cars
    71 510, 93 RX7, 95 993 C2, 67 bug, 16 RAM 3500
  1. G8KeaPoR

    Coil died thoughts on replacement

    What Nissan coil should I grab for it so I can go OEM ish? As for looking cool I can always make a heat sink for it on the mill lol
  2. G8KeaPoR

    90 amp bolt in alternator on an L-series motor

    Resurrection but sorry I couldn't help myself as this is a HUGE pet peeve of mine. The actual problem is that HID projectors and halogen h4 projectors aka Fresnel lenses are not the same nor do they have/use the same cut off. HID cutoff looks like an lightning bolt sitting on its side where as a halogen cutoff is a greater than sign eating the floor. (the floor is greater than _______!) Anyway having the wrong projector or worse no projector causes the HID light beam to disperse rather than remain focused. This creates glare regardless of how it is aimed insuring that everyone coming the other way is blinded and that you are actually getting less light and therefor can see less EVEN IF in your mind you think you are seeing better... Yes it is mental. If a conversion is done properly (of which 99.999999999999999999999999999999999999999999999999% are NOT done properly.) You will get a focused beam that you can actually properly aim and not have any of the glare problems. Sooo. Unless you have conversions with the proper HID projectors in the housings then contrary to your belief that they are properly aimed you are actually blinding all oncoming traffic. (The you or your being anyone with a conversion and not being aimed at the person I quoted. I just had to set the context.)
  3. G8KeaPoR

    Coil died thoughts on replacement

    Like I said I bought the car and it had an MSD on it. I will look into the Nissan coil (got a part number?) but as far as my Jacobs goes... I have that NOS on the shelf. (it was from before the buyout when they were still made in USA and being made for that matter.) It came as a combo but I had originally planned to use the FC1000 paired with some RX7 Turbo 2 coils for my 3rd gen RX7. But since the factory 3rd gen coils seemed to handle 542 RWHP with no problem I figured what was the point and on the shelf it remained. Anyway fast forward it wasn't going to cost me anything to use for the time being.... On another note though or rather back to the Nissan coil are they hitachi's or ngk??
  4. G8KeaPoR

    STALLING, BUT NOT ALL THE TIME.

    Mine did that and it progressively got worse till it wouldn’t start. The coil was only outputting 8v on trigger. It was an msd and like all msd’s it was junk from the moment it was made lol.
  5. G8KeaPoR

    Coil died thoughts on replacement

    So the 510 came with a trash made in China msd blaster on it. I have a Jacobs FC1000 and a c4 coil I was thinking of using (made in USA). And didn’t know what your thoughts were on it. I have an l20b that has the electronic distributed which I assume uses a magnetic pickup. I noticed some people use the inferior imo 6al from msd which does the same thing only it was made in China. Anyway the thing is sitting on the shelf as I ended up not using it in my RX7 and since nothing coil wise is made in USA and you can’t get made in Germany Bosch blue coils anymore it is the only thing I can think of fine I done want to light 50 bucks on fire buying another msd that will go bad in a year. Yeah if you can’t tell I don’t like I da china garbage at all lol.
  6. G8KeaPoR

    reproduction tail light housings?

    Good news everyone. Thanks to danzz32tt I now have a set of mint NOS tail lights so no more restoration. I will now focus on the molding but I have a question. The nos lights are late production so they changed the brake light housing to have two plastic melted rivets sprus on one side of the brake/ parking light cup vs the original single peg on both sides to hold in the metal reflector. So I have basically a few options Option one mold it as is and provide a template so you can drill and reuse your reflectors as is. Option two add the third spru so you can cut off the un needed sprus to match your reflectors. Option three mold as is and chrome the cups so you don’t need the metal reflectors. The plastic I’m using is a urethane high heat resin and they will be heat cured to give a 300+ degree Fahrenheit heat resistance so in theory they shouldn’t melt from the heat of the bulb. I need to do some tests with my temperature gun to be sure. Option four Once I get the spindle for my mill back from being repaired make some dies and make a pseudo hydro former to make new metal reflectors. And mold them in option two in the mean time. The first two options don’t add additional cost and while it means a little work on your end it means a cheaper price in the end. I don’t have a cost comparison between three and four yet but it would add cost which means more cost on your end however they would be more plug and play. What would you prefer? Future projects may include smoke lenses with the factory look for the recessed reflector but for now just doing the housings with no lenses.
  7. G8KeaPoR

    reproduction tail light housings?

    Yeah and unfortunately since they originally made these out of styrene plastic the supply of NOS housings is extremely low... But I am getting there :D
  8. G8KeaPoR

    L16 running really rough at mid rpms but stops when under load

    My two cents. I would go back to the last thing you did as your source of problem. In your case that sounds like ignition and as with all things electrical the disturbing of these connections usually only leads to problems. The same can be said for vacuum lines too. 1 cent: Verify that you have no vacuum leaks with a gauge under. If you do have a leak (low vacuum) then you need to find it. Spraying starter fluid around the manifold gasket works great. if the idle increases then there you go. If none of the gaskets cause a surge in idle check your lines. If you don't have a leak then pull out your multi meter set it to Ohms and check the resistance on all aspects of the ignition system. You should be able to get acceptable resistance ranges from the manual. If any of those are at the edge or outside the acceptable range then they need replaced. 2 cent: That said though from your posts it sounds like you have a bunch of other issues with the engine and personally I would say take care of all of your other known issues before you start making upgrades to the engine as you're only going to end up pissing away money in the end. It sure makes troubleshooting a lot easier (way less messy and frustrating.) when you have taken care of all your obvious problems like leaky seals etc first.
  9. G8KeaPoR

    guns

    Sig Sauer 556 with side folding adjustable stock. Mossberg 500 persuader w pistol grip Taurus PT1911 Ruger SR-40 S&W Walther PPK/S (Piece of crap really since Smith and Wesson can't seem to follow the design plans to a T. Looking for an old InterArms to replace this POS... Never buy a S&W.)
  10. G8KeaPoR

    My Datsun 510 re-restoration

    So yeah having a baby just puts a damp on just about everything car related. Not that I mind as its been fun. In the mean time I have been collecting parts for the fuel system replacement. I am replacing out the lines, tank, filler neck, regulator and pump. I will also be replacing the lower seals on the carbs and installing these nifty heat shields on the bottoms.
  11. G8KeaPoR

    reproduction tail light housings?

    Should have some updates here on the reproductions soon. Sorry it has taken so long but the repairs are well still going. The one housing was easy the other has been challenging as I am having to replace missing plastic with CA glue and baking soda. PITA to work with. I sent you a PM. For those with the knowledge are there any differences between these and the US housings?
  12. G8KeaPoR

    1979 210 Wagon ignition/starter clicking sound issues

    Typically when a starter clicks it isn't getting enough juice. This may be due to a bad battery. By bad I mean it could be low on charge or it may no longer be producing enough AMPS or it is a new undersized battery. Another issue is the wiring. Over time the insulation on wires becomes brittle and cracks. These cracks allow moisture to penetrate which leads to corrosion, corrosion amplified by the exposure to solvents etc. Internal wire corrosion can increase resistance leading to less power transmission. Now as to everything you described I would say you need to put a battery tester on that battery. By tester I don't mean a simple volt meter I mean an actual battery tester that can give you your bateries output not only in volts but amperage and volts under load. Just about every advance/autozone or similar chain has one as its a good way to sell batteries. Heat by the way always has an effect on a battery. There is a formula out there for the percentage based on some variables but that could explain why it works cold but not when the car is hot. Clearly the starter isn't your problem and if it was tharter solenoid a few taps of a hammer would have identified that. Let us know. EDIT - At this point until you have run a proper electrical test on the system I wouldn't waste any more money throwing parts at it. That will only lead to frustrating regret and wallet anxiety.
  13. G8KeaPoR

    My Datsun 510 re-restoration

    http://community.ratsun.net/topic/55571-post-craigslist-ebay-ads-here/?p=1493225 So this is the Datsun that my wife bought for me for 15k plus import and transport fees. (FYI if you want something transported from Canada go with Mackie Trasport as they are hads down the nicest, most professional, best value transport company out there and they don't rip you off like everyone state side listing services on uship.) She wanted to get me one last gift with her own money before she became a stay at home mom. The car looks as many commented well sorted and compared to others it is and I am super happy and blessed to have a wife that supports my hobby. ( I have 5 toy cars.) but (begin rant) there are some problems with it. To start I want to say that whoever "restored" this vehicle should sell all of their tools and never touch a vehicle again as they rigged several areas that affect safety which to me is a HUGE no no. While I wouldn't do it I can understand going cheap so long as it doesn't endanger anyone. If that person happens to be on these forums and is offended well I don't care. The fact that any time I attempt to enjoy my 510 I am forced to choke on the smell of gasoline, exhaust and the fear of it catching fire at any moment negates your feelings... Ok so truthfully speaking I am not trying to offend because hey it gives me something to work on which is fun and I just want to highlight so no one gets hurt. Now Rant over and on to listing out the projects. The problems and projects: The weber DCOE 45's leak fuel due to incorrect fuel pressure. The vehicle has an aftermarket electric inline fuel pump. The pump according to my guage puts out 25PSI. This would be fine for early low HP EFI setups but is way over the weber recommended 4psi fuel pressure. This caused the lower plate seal to leak and not only does this make the interior and me smell like gasoline after driving it the gasoline is dripping down onto the header. (I know liquid fule wont burn but gasoline vaporizes when exposed to high heat.) I plan on replacing the pump from the cheap non labled china pump to something better and add in a fuellabs regulator with built in guage to insure proper pressure on top of replacing the seals of the carbs. I also plan to relocate the metal fuel hardline away from the wheel well (that is how it is routed not sure if that is correct or not.) and to accommodate the return for the regulator I will add an additional hardline. This of course means replacing and modernizing the tank to something that accommodates a return. The electrical wiring under the hood is by far the worst job I have ever seen. I honestly believe a 5 year old with a playschool tool kit could have done a better job. For example there is a wire that spans 3 feet that is made up of multiple pieces of wire all different colors of various size that were electrical taped together that run to the MSD coil. There are wires going through the firewall without any grommet to protect them from rubbing and subsequently arcing. There is what looks to me to be a strand of solid core house wire. None of the wires are bundled together and are both scattered and intertwined in knots all over under the hood (I am afraid to look under the dash board.) All of them are of non heat rated insulation and of random colors that can't necessarily be traced from end to end. I am re-wiring the entire car. Initially I was going to purchase a universal kit but I got to thinking why spend the money putting in a system that uses ancient technology like thermal flashers and possibly have to do this twice if I do any upgrades and so I bought some sealed weather proof fuse/relay boxes (couple from Hella and one from another company I can't remember the name of off hand so I can pick the best option when i go to position it.) and all of the required wiring that exactly matches the factory wiring colors to include the striped wire in GXL. (wire was purchased from 4rcustomswire.com Note- when buying their 6 or 10 packs be sure to send an email with order number indicating the exact striped colors you want. They do custom assortments at no extra charge and free shipping.) All this was purchased for the same price as an EZ-wire kit and when done will allow me to utilize the factory wiring diagrams after adding in the relays to the diagram. Relays for everything is the way to go. There is a rubber line that does not appear to be pressure rated being used in the braking system, (The info may have worn off but still.) Fix is self explanatory. Hooking up the speedometer cable was apparently not important enough during its "restoration" cause who needs to know how fast they are going. The same is true of the fuel gauge wires. Wires I might add that were left hanging unprotected that after blowing the fuse for I assume the gauges I suspect were arcing against the tank. Will be properly sorted when I re-wire The seat belts are not even close to factory size and unless you are 400 lbs you have to cross them with the passenger side as there is not enough adjustment room on the latch side. Honestly they remind me of seat belts from a Continental airlines flight but who knows. New seat belts that fit are on order. High beam flasher was installed backwards and requires you to let go of the wheel and reach 10 inches forward to position it opposite of the way you should have to. Already bought an NOS Niles flasher for left hand drive. Windshield leaks and will need to be re-installed. Wheels have the wrong offset and rub though frankly I like the BRE repros better so... Sealed beams... even with a relay upgrade I am so used to modern headlights that it needs an upgrade. As covered in another thread I have purchase a set of DEPO BMW E30 smileys and after gutting I have retrofitted them with morimoto mini H1 projectors, Elite H1 hid kit and ballasts, and the adapters all provided by squaredmotorwerks.com. The price now on bundle is 380 and does include a relay conversion harness for those not rewiring their whole car. The DEPO smileys were 160.00 for the pair on Amazon and Ebay they are only E-code but far cheaper than sourcing used Hella or Bosch lights. I haven't decided if I am going to utilize the bi-Xenon actuators yet but I have the option. Tail light inner housings. I am covering this in another thread but I am in the process of duplicating the inner housings. Next weekend I will be making the first housing mold and plan to have these available soon. I don't know that I will try to offer them as a product but I will offer them to ratsun.net members. (no this isn't a sales pithc this is just me letting you know I'm not stingy :) The interior is outstanding in the car but might make me some sort of center console with the milled vacuum forming machine I am making. (If you think of any other things I could vacuum form PM me :D The body work. So the radiator core support looks replaced as it has some very lousy tac welds on it but who knows that could have just been how they did them back in the day?? The quarter panels also have poor welds too. The hood rubs on the drivers side fender and has lightly worn through the paint. there is no paint on the jac point edge where the rocker and floor board meet. (used some eastwood stuff to seal it temporarily.) The engine bay is black and looks like it has 3 different colors of black encapsulating primer on it. Lastly there are 3 bubbles (not rust bubbles) and two cracks in the paint. These appear to be caused from a finger prints prior to paint application and two much hardener in the paint. This leads to paint that doesn't stick and shrinks to form a bubble like area in concave areas and the paint to crack on flat areas. So a paint job as well as fixing the welds will be in order which doesn't bother me. The car was originally what I call smurf blue (thats what we called in in the Porsche world.) and I love that color so I feel it deserves to be returned to its former glory. Oh yeah that reminds me it also needs the pillar vents put back on it. I have cnc milled me a pair (I made me a one off on my mill for me and they are not the ones you see on ebay for 400+ bucks.) I need to send them to a chromer but I don't know anyone chroming least not in the state of VA so I am open to suggestions. Anyway if you suffered through this novel I just wanted to let you know that I will be updating this page with pics and links as I address all the issues and hope you enjoy.
  14. G8KeaPoR

    Nissan halts production

    Hey on an individual basis even a yugo can be reliable lol. That said the Xterra was an almost unchanged design from 1999. The frontier was and I believe still is built on the Xterra platform and has been largely a good platform that even the likes of Mercedes has used. So in short they aren't all bad.... Just the other 90% lol. ***EDIT - I should at that the interesting bit of the article was that they halted production of only the vehicles that were being sold in the US market not any japanese produced models being sold in other markets. So to your point of vins that start with J I guess if you are in the market you should probably make sure your vin doesn't start with a J assuming this isn't a company wide issue that is.
  15. G8KeaPoR

    Nissan halts production

    I agree with your sentiment totally although I do kick myself for not buying a mint low mileage R5 turbo back in 2001 for 12k. I mean junk or not you can't argue with mid engine RWD wide body styling like that. Oh and the fact that most mint low mileage ones now sell for 100k. Then again I also thought Google stock was overpriced when they IPO'd..... Such is life guess I still have to work for a living.
×

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.