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About Wooger

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  1. Just wanted to tie out my little ball joint tangent. The 11mm ball joints ordered from dapsupply.net fit like a charm. They're also manufactured by 555 to boot. I'm learning quickly to say "no" to autozone parts whenever possible.
  2. In case anyone was wondering, the “11mm” Duralast lower ball joints from Autozone do not fit the 69 steering arms. Although the threads fit through the hole, the shoulder is too big. Back they go. Ordered 11mm ball joints from dapsupply. Hopefully they fit.
  3. Probably a project for later in the year, but just brainstorming on ideas to boost the ol' KA in the 1969 dime with a T25/28 off an S13/S14. Planning on a very mild setup so i think a T25/28 with internal wastegate should fit the bill. If i can get close to 175-200hp at the factory 7-8psi I'd be very happy. My main hurdle (probably the same problem with all 510's with KA swaps who want to boost) is the manifold. I'm open to any and all ideas at this point, but i was planning on getting a 240sx (ka24de) bottom mount SS tubular manifold with T25 flange from eBay and see how much I'd need to modify it to make it fit. I have zero welding/fab skills, so any alteration will most likely be going to a local muffler/fab shop. Hoping the small(er) T25 with internal WG will fit as a bottom mount with this manifold with minimal modification. Anyone have any insight here? The other option is a top mount cast manifold with a T3/T4 flange. I know this has been done many times before, but I'm thinking a T3/T4 might be overkill for what I have planned. Of course I'll also be upgrading the fuel pump, injectors, MAF, ECU and all that other good stuff. Looking forward to everyone's input! Thanks.
  4. If you want to keep your 11mm steering arms, i think Autozone has lower ball joints that may fit. Part number is FA2026. The website is a little weird, if you designate your vehicle as a 1969 model, the description won't indicate that its 11mm. But if you designate your vehicle as 1973 for example, the description notes that this part is 11mm. Part # FA1044 is the 14mm version. I haven't tried them yet so I'm not positive if they work, but it is on the list of things to try.
  5. Installed a steering box brace as well as a brake master cylinder brace, can't wait to see if there is a noticeable difference in steering and brake feel. Also wired up the front side markers.
  6. Hey Jeff, working on getting it fixed haha. Swapped in the rear coilovers a while ago and now onto alignment.
  7. Thanks Mike, that's an option as well. Currently the camber isn't terrible, but I'm pretty sure toe is bad. Problem is i don't know of any shop/garage that is familiar with slotting the rear cross member or installing a set of adjusters.
  8. Hey fellas, does anyone have a shop recommendation in the Los Angeles area that can install a set of rear camber/toe adjusters on a 510? Appreciate the help.
  9. Thanks for posting that Draker, that is almost exactly how mine is currently set up. The only difference is the vent bung on my tank is located on the far corner instead of the center.
  10. I'm all for getting this right haha, especially if there are only two hoses coming out of the top of my tank. What would be the correct way to route the hoses? Thanks.
  11. Just a quick update. It seems like the gas tank was not vented properly. I unhooked the smaller hose that was going to the filler neck and let it vent out below the car (capped the leftover hole at the filler neck) and now no more loss of fuel pressure. I still have no idea my the tank didn't collapse in on itself. Seems like problem solved for now. Thanks for all the help on this one.
  12. Pretty sure the cap that's on right now is not venting, big "non vented" printed on it haha. Will keep you guys posted once I get back on the road. The intake manifold is currently off on the ka while I'm changing out the heater hoses.
  13. Now that i think about it, if my gas tank is not vented correctly (in its current state), would it create a sort of vacuum that would lower my fuel pressure under load? The reason I'm asking is my fuel pressure will sporadically drop significantly when i get on the throttle which leads to hesitation and bucking. My first thought was fuel slosh and a surge tank or sump set-up was in order, but now I'm thinking the bad gas tank venting is affecting my fuel pressure. Perhaps air isn't entering the tank at a fast enough rate to replace the fuel that is being consumed? But if that was the case i wouldn't be able to explain why the tank hasn't collapsed yet. Thoughts? Appreciate the insight everyone.
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