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d.p

Senior Member
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About d.p

  • Rank
    Senior Member

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  • Gender
    Not Telling
  • Location
    Mid-Atlantic
  • Cars
    1971 521, 2018 M3
  1. d.p

    My 1971 521

    I think my rear is ok just need to deal with the leaks at the tee and the calipers. I assume I am just using all the wrong fittings so I will just start over and make everything. Can someone recommend a solid flaring tool? Price not an issue, I just want something that works and is easy. I assume I would also need metric fittings as well (bubble and ISO)? I had bought hard lines from pep boys but those are all standard fittings which I guess do me no good? Using 88 d21 calipers and rubber lines but using a metric bubble tee. https://www.amazon.com/gp/huc/view.html?ie=UTF8&newItems=Cb62d9103-162f-410f-bf91-0142160e170c%2C1
  2. d.p

    My 1971 521

    Well its not the union that is leaking so maybe the flare tool did the job. Its my new 10mm 3 way tee that is leaking. Thought it maybe was the line so I replaced that but it leaked even with a brand new line to no avail. https://www.ebay.com/itm/391976993244
  3. d.p

    My 1971 521

    Replaced the starter and went to try install disc brakes using beebani's kit but ran into a problem with the stock rear line. It wouldn't break loose from the tee so I had to cut it and tried to re-flare it on the truck using that stupid rental flaring tool from autozone which was a complete fail. Just wouldn't flare it straight no matter what I did and would leak like a siv. At this point guess I am going to just buy an eastwood hand held flare tool to get this buttoned up. Looking at this tool: https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-on-car-flaring-tool-for-3-16-tubing.html?SRCCODE=PLA00020&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIrbKZka-z3AIVDVgNCh06wQ4lEAYYASABEgJ9tvD_BwE Unless someone has another idea? I don't even want to tray and remove/disconnect a section of the rear hard line to how much trouble I had with all the other stock shit. I would prefer to just reflare the existing line, use a union and run a new line to the new master. Oh and one of the calipers leaks fluid from the rubber side, anyone just double up on crush washers to fix that?
  4. d.p

    Loren O's '72 521 -Found this out in the woods.

    You got rear ended and pushed into that dump truck??! Glad you are ok man. These little 521s worry me sometimes.
  5. d.p

    Loren O's '72 521 -Found this out in the woods.

    Sorry to hear man. Assume he is ok? Got a link to the carnage?
  6. d.p

    My 1971 521

    Tested my starter (battery cables and large screwdriver) and its hit or miss. It spins, but doesn't always slide over, sometimes it would slide over and slide right back and other times it would slide over and stay there. Sometimes it wouldn't slid at all. I just went ahead and ordered a new starter. But so I understand how a starter works should the pinion gear slide over and stay there until the car starts?
  7. d.p

    My 1971 521

    Ok cleaning all terminals, will test starter and see what happens.
  8. d.p

    My 1971 521

    Ring gear teeth chewed up on the flywheel. Does this shit need to be replaced ? What would cause this other than the starter? OR would th flywheel teeth cause the starter not to work right as its not catching? I guess what I am wondering is whether my starter is bad or my flywheel or both??
  9. d.p

    My 1971 521

    Why would a weak battery or loose terminals cause a clunking/grinding noise coming from the starter??
  10. d.p

    My 1971 521

    Well think my starter gave up the ghost. Started clanking/grinding today when trying to start the truck..sound would go away once it was running. Like 3/5 times it would start, other times it wouldn't even attempt to turn over. I pulled it out and can't see anything obvious but I figure I would just replace it. Crash gave me a link for a reman'd one but thinking about getting new or the troy emirsh one. thoughts?? On another note has anyone seen this before? http://datnissparts.com/nismo-l4-naps-z-chain-tensioner-l16-l18-l20b-z20-z22-z24-13070-n7120/
  11. d.p

    A 521 in Massachusetts

    Got a link or part #s for the alt and the correct belt?
  12. d.p

    My 1971 521

    Idk. Had the head done not too long ago and valve seals were replaced. Engine builder didn’t say anything about the guides but no idea on the rings. Guess I just got to run it until it doesn’t.
  13. d.p

    A 521 in Massachusetts

    So does it really matter if its synthetic or traditional oil? Cause traditional 20w-50 is way cheaper. Like $16 for 5 qrts. Ohh and I buy that ZDDP MAXX stuff from ebay and throw a bottle in with an oil change. But if I go with VR1 I don't need to do that?
  14. d.p

    A 521 in Massachusetts

    Yeah 30-8a is what I got. Got the part number from RPs website and bought it from pep boys but like I said it leaked at the block. It wouldn't seal no matter what I did.
  15. d.p

    My 1971 521

    Had some free time so I checked the lash cold and it was spot on at .008 and .010 but in doing so I pulled the spark plugs and this is what they look like: They are 1,2,3, 4 so 1 and 3 are noticeably darker than 2 and 4. What would cause that?
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