Jump to content

Crashtd420

Senior Member
  • Content Count

    3,627
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

Everything posted by Crashtd420

  1. And that kit you posted does not include the brass syncros..... Check this page out.... https://www.midwesttrans.com/FS5W71_Manual_Transmission.html I think you actually would want this kit... https://www.midwesttrans.com/webapp/partView.do?partNum=MWT104WS I would disassemble it first and evaluate it before you buy anything.... At least get the cases off... the whole transmission stays assembled to the center plate so nothing is gonna fall out...
  2. The only special tools really would be a couple pullers.... I rented them from autozone but I had to make some extensions for the arms because they wouldnt reach.... Just 1" wide flat stock steel .. drilled 2 holes and mounted them to the pulled and arms..... There are a couple things to make sure you dont loose, some little balls and springs .... All and all its not bad... I just rebuilt my stumpy 71b and I've never opening a transmission before .... Just take plenty of pictures and take your time.....
  3. I definitely have a little bit of research to do, but you give me a couple directions to explore thanks..... I will probably keep it simple for now and just turn the idle up a little in the afternoons if i need the a/c.... I will get this done but it may end up on this years winter list not sure.... it would be a different story if this was the beginning of summer but we are almost into fall....
  4. Did you ever do a 10 mile check to see how the odometer tracks? I said this a few posts back.... Just be aware you can calibrate the speedometer and /or move the needle but that wont keep the odometer reading correctly.... Just depends on which one you want accurate....
  5. All good food for thought..... thanks... To answer a few questions.... Stroffgren No the lynx does not have any sort of balancing tube.... but I like your idea about cross drilling it.... I have been wanting to plumb a Pcv valve in eventually..... I'll look at those vacuum valve to.... I assume you need a vacuum controlled solenoid too.... ThisisMatt .... That's a 40 dcoe weber.... I have that spring setup because I dont have the spring that goes on the pedal.....
  6. The carb has an arm for the throttle on the front and back.... technically I guess that would be left and right.... Either way the Front has alot going on but I think the back will work.... I have some other hardware for the carb so I can look at that also and see what I can figure out....
  7. Looks pretty easy to wire.... when the under dash unit turns on it sends a signal to the compressor to activate the clutch.... i just need a relay to power the idle up solenoid and I can use that trigger to the compressor to trigger the relay when the ac turns on..... Trick is gonna be figuring out how to mount one on a Weber side draft....
  8. I'll look into that further.... at least I have an idea what I'm looking for ...thanks...
  9. Well that makes more sense...
  10. I only forget the useless stuff.... I think 🤔
  11. And on to the next issue I found.... Started feeling some vibration while driving... sure enough the center u-joint on the drive shaft is loose..... I'll have to get that out and replace it....
  12. I also put the restrictor with a .040 hole in and I can still see oil coming from the spray bar.... so I'll see how it behaves now... Back to an ac question... The one thing I noticed is a slight rpm drop when the compressor turns on.... only about 150-200 rpm... I believe that's normal but I'm wondering is there a way to combat that other then just turning the idle up a little?? Current I turned it up to 800 rpm....
  13. Just had to get the belt squared away, it all good and cold in there now.... atleast it's ready for next year....
  14. After pulling the vacuum and charging the system there was still a small leak from that one bulkhead fitting..... I was able to hold it still on the inside while they tightened it and then it was good to go.... Then came the moment of truth..... And fail...... But only temporarily, the belt was slipping so we couldn't see if it would get cold or not..... Well as soon as I got home I corrected that issue and now I have a fully functional air conditioning system.....
  15. One leak on a bulk head fitting.... snugged up the fitting and we are back on track.... Pulling a vacuum again..... at least it wasnt the crimps.....
  16. Getting the air conditioning charged today.. fingers crossed.. one of the only times the datsun goes to the mechanics..
  17. Trucks been running since last summer..... Earlier this year I broke the other oil pressure sensor and this was the replacement setup.... While I've always been certain I have good oil pressure the gauge has never really been reading correctly... I always kind of just said whatever since the idiot light never comes on and I could still see oil flowing..... I just got a hair across my ass about it so I finally started looking at it.....
  18. Honestly that rust is so minor compared to others I've seen.... Plus it's just surface rust.... How much better of a truck do you really think you'll find with 30 plus year old truck? If you do they are gonna want a ton of money for it..... Just clean what you have the best you can and coat with a rust preventer... It will last another 30-40 years.... Unless your trying to build a never driven show truck I wouldn't do any more than that....
  19. Crashtd420

    Kingpins

    That's a bit pricey.... The shop that did the machine work on my engine was able to fit the bushings and size them to the king pin.... I think I paid around 120 for both ....
  20. Well after a nice ride to work for the first time the gauge did not drop to zero as I came to the stop light off the highway..... Said about 16 - 20, but at 20 the idiot light on the electric gauge comes on and I dont like seeing that damn little red light, I suppose I could disconnect that wire at the sender.... sender has 2 wires, the pressure and the red light... I'm thinking a .040 size restrictor hole will get keep me in the 20s at idle....
  21. I wish I could see the oil flow at the mains to be sure.....
  22. Ok couldn't wait.... wife got home and I was able to go for another 5 minute ride before the truck cooled off... Gauge was telling me 24- 26 at a stop light.... I'll see what happens by the time I get to work tomorrow.... that's a nice 20 minute ride.... when I get off the highway will be the true test if I can live with it for now...
  23. Well it's back together.... again. I have a .060 hole in the restrictor now... I still see good flow coming from the spray bar so again I'll see how that does....
  24. And after all that i am right back to where I started..... starting to really hate that pressure gauge and sender.... When I got off the highway today it dropped to zero, so I decided to take a peak in while it was warm and still running..... I could see oil coming out of the spray bar and my idiot light never comes on so I'm not sure , then it slowly started to creep up into the teens while idling.... I verified it was grounded, even added an extra ground to the body of the sender, and no difference..... Just now I installed a mechanical gauge instead of the spray bar .... The 2 gauges did not read the same... wtf.... the electric read high and dropped at a faster rate once warmed up... at least the mechanical one still showed about 25 - 30.... I might do a smaller restrictor and see what happens.... or just plug the damn spray bar and be done with it for now... My biggest concern is robbing the bottom end of oil, but I know even when the electric gauge said zero I still had oil flow so I dont know what to say.... Oh ya I do... "friends dont let friends buy cheap gauges" Yes even the mechanical gauge is a cheap one.....
  25. If you put por 15 over the primer it's kind of a waste.... por Is technically designed to be applied over the rusty metal.... If I remember right I think the por etching primer is for in between the por 15 rust preventer and the top coat....
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.