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Crashtd420

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Everything posted by Crashtd420

  1. Could have been quality of part.... I'll admit at the time I believe I used parts from autozone..... Even then they only used 2 out of the 3 that I gave them because they said one had play in it.... I kind of think It was the clips, that's the direction it was loose..... Either way new one feels 100 times better...
  2. Sort of..... i checked it when I had the rear axle on 2 jack stands, front never left the ground. I just assumed that would be the same since it was still supporting itself by the axle..... it's hard to get under there when its actually on the ground....
  3. Did pretty good this morning..... Did my first u joint today.. not as bad as I thought it was going to be..... Didnt really take any other pics because it was just a u joint..... ok and it doesnt look like postimage is working so I guess it doesnt matter.... I had the u joints done when I replaced the carrier bearing and the drive shaft balanced..... The one thing i noticed was the clips in the old u joint where .02 thinner.... the new one with the thicker clips seemed to make things much tighter, but not too tight... Checked pinion angle while I was under there just to be sure and that was good... so hopefully this ujoint was my vibration issue..... Edit for pic: Part that needed new joint....
  4. Damn, ya I'd try calling around and try another place like Mike said .....
  5. How bad is your radiator...... Another option might be bringing it to a radiator shop and have it recored....
  6. Well that's interesting... I was gonna say to make sure the parts you want match what you have because the kind of get lumped together when something's might be more year specific ... but this is a whole different issue.....
  7. Thanks I will keep that in mind but I have had a set of door seals this whole time..... quality unknown... It's not that I need to purchase them I just need to get off my ass and install them.... I was driving the truck for 3 months last year without the door glass.. once I could drive it again some things became less of a priority while others got things became more.... As far as the seals I've been afraid I will start a snowball effect and have realigned the doors and fenders because of adding the seals...
  8. Have you tried the obvious and replaced the pcv valve?
  9. Best day ever driving the datsun. A/C is working perfectly... the downtown clock was registering 92 today with only about 40% humidity so not to bad... I was happy it was cool inside and there was no increase to the engine temperatures due to the condenser in front of the radiator.... I feel i could have gotten it colder inside but I dont have door seals or door cards to keep the cool air contained..... Another couple items for this winters todo list....
  10. I was lucky I turned the idle up just barely with ac on..... once the truck warms up it works out good.... Not to high and not to low..... Gives me some time to do research... right now the ujoint is top priority the rest of the things I need to do are just little issues that wont hurt anything....
  11. The l16 radiator might not work.... If the pic I saw of a 520 radiator is correct then the inlet and outlet is on the wrong sides....
  12. And that kit you posted does not include the brass syncros..... Check this page out.... https://www.midwesttrans.com/FS5W71_Manual_Transmission.html I think you actually would want this kit... https://www.midwesttrans.com/webapp/partView.do?partNum=MWT104WS I would disassemble it first and evaluate it before you buy anything.... At least get the cases off... the whole transmission stays assembled to the center plate so nothing is gonna fall out...
  13. The only special tools really would be a couple pullers.... I rented them from autozone but I had to make some extensions for the arms because they wouldnt reach.... Just 1" wide flat stock steel .. drilled 2 holes and mounted them to the pulled and arms..... There are a couple things to make sure you dont loose, some little balls and springs .... All and all its not bad... I just rebuilt my stumpy 71b and I've never opening a transmission before .... Just take plenty of pictures and take your time.....
  14. I definitely have a little bit of research to do, but you give me a couple directions to explore thanks..... I will probably keep it simple for now and just turn the idle up a little in the afternoons if i need the a/c.... I will get this done but it may end up on this years winter list not sure.... it would be a different story if this was the beginning of summer but we are almost into fall....
  15. Did you ever do a 10 mile check to see how the odometer tracks? I said this a few posts back.... Just be aware you can calibrate the speedometer and /or move the needle but that wont keep the odometer reading correctly.... Just depends on which one you want accurate....
  16. All good food for thought..... thanks... To answer a few questions.... Stroffgren No the lynx does not have any sort of balancing tube.... but I like your idea about cross drilling it.... I have been wanting to plumb a Pcv valve in eventually..... I'll look at those vacuum valve to.... I assume you need a vacuum controlled solenoid too.... ThisisMatt .... That's a 40 dcoe weber.... I have that spring setup because I dont have the spring that goes on the pedal.....
  17. The carb has an arm for the throttle on the front and back.... technically I guess that would be left and right.... Either way the Front has alot going on but I think the back will work.... I have some other hardware for the carb so I can look at that also and see what I can figure out....
  18. Looks pretty easy to wire.... when the under dash unit turns on it sends a signal to the compressor to activate the clutch.... i just need a relay to power the idle up solenoid and I can use that trigger to the compressor to trigger the relay when the ac turns on..... Trick is gonna be figuring out how to mount one on a Weber side draft....
  19. I'll look into that further.... at least I have an idea what I'm looking for ...thanks...
  20. Well that makes more sense...
  21. I only forget the useless stuff.... I think 🤔
  22. And on to the next issue I found.... Started feeling some vibration while driving... sure enough the center u-joint on the drive shaft is loose..... I'll have to get that out and replace it....
  23. I also put the restrictor with a .040 hole in and I can still see oil coming from the spray bar.... so I'll see how it behaves now... Back to an ac question... The one thing I noticed is a slight rpm drop when the compressor turns on.... only about 150-200 rpm... I believe that's normal but I'm wondering is there a way to combat that other then just turning the idle up a little?? Current I turned it up to 800 rpm....
  24. Just had to get the belt squared away, it all good and cold in there now.... atleast it's ready for next year....
  25. After pulling the vacuum and charging the system there was still a small leak from that one bulkhead fitting..... I was able to hold it still on the inside while they tightened it and then it was good to go.... Then came the moment of truth..... And fail...... But only temporarily, the belt was slipping so we couldn't see if it would get cold or not..... Well as soon as I got home I corrected that issue and now I have a fully functional air conditioning system.....
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