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Crashtd420

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Everything posted by Crashtd420

  1. It did make improvements going to the zero drain, but Its hard to explain..... It did improved when I hit the throttle as long as I'm over about 2500rpm or so... I do still have a slight transition lean spot, but not as bad.... little extra throttle and it goes away.... so I'm gonna try going up 1 on my idle jet.... But when I do that I also wanna drop my main jet 1 size and change my air correctors too.... Hopefully 3 changes at once wont bite me in the ass.... Unfortunately it's very much trial and error.....
  2. Crashtd420

    my 1974 dats

    That sucks if that sight doesn't work anymore it really had some good info.... I have referenced that a bunch of time...... Couldnt find it either.... Maybe someone has a new link??
  3. And disconnect the other black wire going to the negative side on the coil.... if the second one is going to chassis ground that could be what's stopping the spark..... connect only the distributor to the negative side of the coil and see if you get spark.....
  4. Well black and red is the start signal from the key..... usually the start signal would bypass a points coil ballist resistor to give more power during crank.... But there is the correct black and white for ignition connected to the the reds... so that's good..... not sure about that other wire.....
  5. The first thing I would do is disconnect those extra black wires to coil.... Coil should have ignition power to the positive and the negative trigger from the distributor to the negative side of the coil.... What are the red wires going to the coil and distributor? What do they connect to? Also is it a factory or after market tach?
  6. Crashtd420

    weber carb ID

    Possibly a holley.... Might be ok.... not sure if it will mount to the stock intake or not.... check that out too....
  7. Crashtd420

    my 1974 dats

    That's somewhat normal..... Think about a light bulb if you connected directly to a battery... Power on one side and ground on the other.... If you remove the ground wire from the battery that wire connected to the bulb that was just showing ground will now show power..... it back feeds through the bulb..... same is happening at the coil... its waiting for the negative trigger from the distributor....
  8. That explains that.....
  9. Check it for power..... I believe that's 12 volt ignition power....
  10. Look at the pistons though..... definitely not stock L16 pistons.. . Maybe the dish on those is less so the compression ratio might be ok.....
  11. I'm so bad at taking pictures and I wish I did because everyone could get a good laugh....... So I fixed my blinker/parking light issue... no ground to the 2 bulbs on the cluster.... this happened to the left directional before.... so i added a ground wire from the copper strip that grounds the 2 bulbs to the metal case of the cluster problem solved.... Just in time to get my son from school.... well I made it about 2 miles down the road before I realized that the 4 bulbs for brakes and directional were still hanging behind the truck..... I removed them from them as I was testing to make sure it wasn't something in the tailhousing.... well I never put them back.... must have looked foolish in the parking lot putting them back.....
  12. Crashtd420

    521 speedogear

    If your really stuck let me know..... I have a spare 4spd transmission I picked up for parts..... But since I upgraded to the stumpy 71b 5spd in my 521 I really dont need the extra 4spd as intended..... I still have the 4spd that was in the truck too.... that I'm keeping just incase....
  13. Crashtd420

    521 speedogear

    Kind of dark but you can sort of see the difference.... I can get another pic with some more light if you need.....
  14. Crashtd420

    521 speedogear

    Something doesnt look right..... I just took some pics of the transmission i have in the basement.... give me a minute and I'll post.... tried to take at the same angle
  15. Oh course you fix one thing and something else stops working..... I suppose I could drive It less but that's not gonna happen.... Basically I turn the parking lights on and my right directional lights up on the dash.... Everthing around the truck works good... so I think it's the cluster again..... Of course I just pulled it out to do the speedometer cable the other day so I must have disturbed something..... I had to add a ground to the back of the cluster last year but I forget why..... hoping it has to do with that.... Guess I know what I'll be doing after work tomorrow....
  16. Ya if you pull the motor it would be easier.... I actually did it with the motor still in the car.....
  17. It's a trade..... I'd take the 720 over the Subaru.... only 1 head gasket to change.... Subaru head gaskets are pain in the ass too... plus your almost guaranteed to have to have the heads flattened.... Go for it and enjoy it.....
  18. Is this a new project? Has it ever ran for you?
  19. So since you have no help are able to verify spark or it an assumption? You can make a connection between the spade terminal on the starter and the battery positive with some wire and a push button..... even just touch the wires together and it will start cranking..... Obviously turn the ignition key to the on position and crank the motor with the external button to see if you get spark.... There could be a few reasons why it wont start..... Ignition switch, or even the ignition module with the distributor could be bad.... Distributor should be close enough where you have it.... maybe try advancing it a bit and see if that helps too..
  20. So there just happens to be a dyno shop in my town..... while they mainly tune efi and Holley carbs they said if I show up with all my jets and stuff i have for tuning they will strap the datsun on the dyno...... Basically I can rent the dyno for $125 an hour clock starts ones its strapped down..... figure that's not to bad.... Their tech will run the equipment and run the truck on the dyno..... I basically tell them the highest rpm I'm comfortable with and we will see how long it keeps making power... Just need to make sure I have everything I'll need and make the appointment..... hoping for one day in june......
  21. I have play and everything seems to work.... I just think I never had it adjusted properly.... I really didnt have a reference point so it was a guess the first time......
  22. Nope never did.....
  23. Ride went good.... Ebrake held on the hill .... Clutch pedal took a second to get use to but it fully disengages and then crabs when released so I guess it should be good....
  24. Ok so ebrake cable was good.... adjustment of the drums was all I needed.... realized I didnt have to pull the handle out as far today to set the brake..... gonna check it on the hill again when I get my son from school..... As far as the clutch, I have no ability to adjust the pushrod as the pedal..... There was a return stop for the actual pedal which I adjusted, and I adjusted the slave a bit and was able to install the spring...... clutch grabs in the middle of the pedal stroke... Now its closer to the floor then before but I think I was really off on my adjustment last year because it was grabbing kind of high.... adding the spring just showed me that something wasn't right...... Going for a ride now, see how it goes....
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