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Crashtd420

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Everything posted by Crashtd420

  1. I'll look into it more but I still dont think my set is capable of doing that....
  2. I get what you were saying before about the vacuum switch idea but I dont really like the idea of a vacuum leak per say.... As far as the solenoid I just need to try one and see what works or doesnt work.... just trying not to waste money....
  3. And mainer311 I though about a pull cable but was worried about the cables slacking and getting caught or something since both would have to be attached to the throttle....
  4. I did that and it wants to diesel on me...
  5. I could always put the solenoid on it's own on/off switch so it doesnt cycle with the compressor.... And matt I now understand what you were suggesting earlier but I dont think the linkage would do what your thinking.... that arm you were talking about is to adjust the cable to achieve wot .... I think I just need to buy a solenoid, hope for the best and try it.. I still have till next week to decide what to buy.... play money all spent, waiting for next paycheck...
  6. I see your point about the fire wall but I feel it's the strongest location to support the solenoid... I do have the room and it would be easily removable if necessary..... With stroffgrens idea about a welded nut on a riveted on plate opens up the possibility of what solenoids I can use.. But wayno I also like your idea about the air cleaner bolts, they are through holes so longer screws and nuts on the backside is possible.... But I'm not sure which lock nuts you are referring too.. I would probably do it on the back side of the carburetor.... there is a lever back there also and 2 empty locations for the idle screw and something else.... not strong enough to hold the whole unit but should be ok to stabilize a bracket mounted to the air cleaner bolts.... Looks like I'll get one that could suit both ideas and see what will work best...
  7. I understand what your saying but the springs you see on the carb are the only ones I have on my throttle setup.... one of the reasons I bought that throttle setup was because my pedal doesnt have it's own return spring in the cab..... that one was broken and lost years ago, even before I got the truck.... So I dont believe there would be any difference in effort that the solenoid would see if I did it at the pedal or at the carburetor it would still be pushing against the same number of springs.. I have read about others with the issue I believe you think would occur. Which is it's not strong enough to increase the idle... most say you have to hit the throttle once when the solenoid is activated then it would stay out....
  8. Thats something to keep in mind... That would also allow me to move it out further into the engine bay if needed.... I could put the locking nut in the engine bay vs inside the cab.....
  9. Hopefully this idea comes together like I'm imagining.. I tried to think about where I have to mount one, vs not mounting to a weak point all while worrying about cable slack etc..... This seems to be the most direct solution as it will just kick the pedal enough to raise the idle.... I'm eyeing a solenoid from a Toyota, it has a long threaded portion that I should be able to use 2 nuts (1 inside, 1 outside) against the firewall to adjust and secure it....
  10. That was the hope, to have as little of the solenoid as possible poke through the firewall to the inside... I pretty sure I have the room, next step is to see exactly where it would need to go and if anything is in fact in the way... also I'm not sure how much throw those solenoids have so I need to figure that out too.... I have a couple mounting and adjustment ideas in my head just need to pick a solenoid and see what I need to do....
  11. Right now I've mashed everyone's suggestions together and hopefully have come up with a good way to add the idle up solenoid.... I know the pedal was talked about and upon looking it think that's my best option..... on the pedal there is a little square pad.... I'm not even sure what it is supposed to be for... If I can drill a hole in the firewall just behind that square to mount the solenoid then that would keep the throttle open a little extra increasing the idle..... I'm able to adjust my cable free play and wot with the linkage I have so I just need to order a solenoid now....
  12. I have been pretty happy with the tune on the carburator lately but there have always been some transition issues, depending on how you drive it... I have been wanting to try another emulsion tube so I finally got 2 - f7 tubes ordered.... I currently have f8 tubes and the f7 are supposed to be richer sooner which I'm hoping will help at the transition.... On another note I ran into an interesting issue trying to keep the idle up when I run the a/c.. I tried turning it up enough so it wouldn't stumble and try to stall at idle, but if I do that it wants to diesel a little if I'm not running the a/c.... cure for now is I turn the ac on regardless just before I shut the truck off... this causes the idle to drop and no dieseling...
  13. Crashtd420

    My 1971 521

    He just put that old altenator on.... Yes I would go back to your other one if your belt is tight, maybe tighten a little more and see if it still happens.... Sometimes it needs just a little more tension.. did you ever spin the alternator by hand before you installed it? Did it feel ok?
  14. Took a nice ride with the family this morning.. found a Sunday morning car cruise with an $8 all you can eat breakfast buffet... Unfortunately for some reason the pic of the line of cars with my truck in it didnt save.... but I did see this .... Some sort of roadster.... I forget what they are... no badges... but It was hiding a turbo engine in there....
  15. Crashtd420

    My 1971 521

    Well that's an issue if it physically wont fit through..... To release the clip go from the back side, slide something if thin and flat and it should easily pull out..... use a flashlight and you should see what I mean... Make sure you plug them back in correctly
  16. Crashtd420

    My 1971 521

    Usually a really small screw flat screwdriver or pin puller tool.... but you risk breaking the tab.... Just take the housing out it will be much easier unless the whole thing is rusted in there....
  17. Crashtd420

    My 1971 521

    You might have to take the entire light assembly out
  18. Crashtd420

    My 1971 521

    You should be able to pull the stock ones right out there.... should be a grommet where the wires enter the headlight bucket....
  19. Crashtd420

    My 1971 521

    Have you ordered the rockers yet? I could probably also send you a rocker or 2..... I put new ones in the head I'm using so I have 16 extra that I'll probably never use, plus all those L20b gaskets.... Text me if you want them and we can work something out.....
  20. Crashtd420

    My 1971 521

    You should have stripped it for parts before tossing it.... But if it's gone then its gone......
  21. Crashtd420

    Heating up

    Oh.... that's a good point.....
  22. Crashtd420

    My 1971 521

    They are itm brand and only cost $10 .... Vs oem rockers from nissan( still available) but cost closer to 25-30.... Dp dont you have a spare L16 too.... Rob that head, you have 8 rockers at your disposal to find the best one....
  23. Crashtd420

    Heating up

    Well I would start with the thermostat then.... altenator would have zero to do with it over heating....
  24. Crashtd420

    Heating up

    Did you change anything around that time?
  25. Crashtd420

    Heating up

    Timing light
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