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Crashtd420

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Everything posted by Crashtd420

  1. Well most of the time whether you realize it or not your running on the idle/progressive circuit..... The air corrector will only correct the top end but the main will reduce the whole circuit ( only taking about main/air corrector) I still think you need to lean out that main jet.... If it started off good as you got on the main jets and then it went rich then I would agree go bigger on the air corrector.... you may still need to but I still think you should go after the main first.... What are you currently running for a main and air corrector?
  2. Ya I know what you mean about trying to describ things..... All you can do is experiment once your close.... at least it sounds like it's more driveable.... It drives me crazy because I'll make a change i think will help and it will but then it throws something else off.....
  3. You can probably leave the air correctors alone..... usually they effect high speed operation... mostly when going wot... So if you were going lean at wot and high on the rpms you would want a smaller air corrector... How did the f2 emulsion tubes changes things? Can you possibly describe? I went from f11 to f8 tubes and it tightened up my high rpm readings.... Once I get on the main circuit I stay pretty stable.... i had thought about trying the f2 also....
  4. My alternator belt has been in need of adjustment, so yesterday I adjusted it as I was messing with the oil drain plug...... Well I should have remembered I did that because I was hearing a weird banging sound during startup and shut down...... I thought it was my exhaust the whole time until this morning I rememebered that I adjusted the alternator yesterday.... Sure enough there it was resting on the idler arm..... Went to O'Reilly s and got one size shorter belt, i was able to get it on and adjusted and I have about 3/4 inch clearance to the idler arm now.....
  5. And for some reason I can not seal my damn drain plug..... Since the royal purple oil isnt cheap and its fairly fresh in the motor, each time I drain the oil I put it back in a gallon jug to reuse and I'm actually filtering it through a paint strainer to avoid contaminates.... The nice thing is after 3000 miles since I built the motor i haven't been finding anything on the drain plug magnet or in the strainer.... I bought a pack of random drain plugs gaskets, basically all I could find local and today.... it had some nylon ones and a fiber one, so tried the fiber one.... Better but I still get a drip...... I could try the nylon one, it is different from the other nylon one i tried before but at things point i dont think that type would seal for some reason...... I'm thinking about ordering a pack of these.... Atleast it looks like my actual oil pan is staying leak free .... so I'm gaining on it...
  6. We had a summer stroll event downtown today.... Clean 240z showed up... old guy has a couple... I guess the other one is all original with only 24000 miles .... I actually thought this bmw looked good... inline 6 with what looked like a custom fuel injection system.....
  7. Excellent that's about how I was hoping I could do it.... Didnt see any clip or washer... seal was flush with bottom of the housing.... I'll get that on order... thanks...
  8. Also found the bottom seal on my steering box is leaking too..... Can anyone confirm the part number# Nissan part 48137-36700..... seems to be discontinued but found a replacement on ebay.... size seems to be right from what I could measure.... And can this seal be done without having to remove the whole steering column? looks like you can remove the arm and be able to swap the seal...
  9. I wish I could say the leak is 100% gone but I cant.... I think I finally got the oil pan.... i had a small leak at first but after the motor warmed up I retorqued the pan bolts and so far so good...... But the drain plug hates me.... Nylon washer was worse than just the copper one..... I need to look for a crush style copper gasket or something with a built in o-ring.... I tried a little form a gasket on the copper washer.... it's better but I still get a small drip..... I might try this once more and see if I get a better result....
  10. Careful buying those kits.... look at what you have and what they are giving you.... I decided to just buy individual jets because the kits were not close to my needs.....
  11. I had a points coil explode on me before because I swapped to pertronix and removed the ballasts resistor..... It was in the morning and still dark so I got huge flame that shot out from the front tire well.... proceeded by the engine dieing..... Definitely make sure the setup is correct for the application....
  12. Yes it was the correct stuff for the application.... And I didnt really let it tack dry either... when I said waiting for it to dry I was talking about after it was installed and fully torqued.....
  13. Well I got lucky.... i was supposed to work ot today but I managed to escape work early since the machines I run decided to stop running.... someone else's problem to fix them... So I headed home and got the oil pan bolted back on.... torqued to spec .... Crossmember and steering cross rod reinstalled...... truck back on the ground.. I decided to wait to fill the oil and let the form a gasket dry, yes I used "form a gasket"... technically doesn't need to but its gonna rain tomorrow so I cant hurt to let it cure 24 hrs..... Hopefully that's the last time I have to do that......
  14. Just make sure when the cab dropped it didnt bend the drive shaft..... its probably fine but worth looking at to make sure...... I suppose even if it was it would still work going slow......
  15. If it's a woods truck and plow vehicle I would go for it...... If you have never done it before do yourself a favor and over do it..... Jack it back up, line it up and find clean metal and brace the hell out of it...... If you do fix it give that drive shaft a check....
  16. I didnt go crazy with reversing the crater, but using the tapered punch did make the holes better..... and I have it about as flat as I can get it.... not perfect but way better then it was before...... And I'm not using the gasket..... going with the form a gasket again... I found the bolts stayed tight using it.... and if my pan was flat in that corner it would have sealed like it should have..... Also put a little heat paint on it just to clean it up again.... still drying.....
  17. Well the corner between the bolts was actually lifted.... so I took care of that first..... while its pretty flat now I like your idea of reversing the crater.... bringing a tapered punch home and I'll do as you suggested before I put it back on....
  18. Turns out bring the oil pan to work was a good idea..... On a flat table it wanted to rock back and forth.... Three corners touched and the corner where I have had my leak was slightly raised..... I was able to straighten the corner so now it sits flat without rocking.... Gonna flatten where the bolts go during lunch..... and it should be good to reinstall.....
  19. You are 100% right there.... I might bring it to work with me tomorrow.... I have a flat machining table in my work area..... That will allow me to view the whole pan on a flat surface....
  20. No.... never had them..... Were they on all L motors? I think about those after I have the oil pan down .... like now.... I'll try one more time to seal it and maybe I'll be looking into finding a set if I fail again..... Last time I used that form a gasket stuff and while it sealed about 95% there were a couple tell tails of where the oil was getting past in that corner .... so I'll address that and as I said cross my fingers and try again.... maybe a little extra in the corner.....
  21. So I went and did it again..... That damn oil pan has been pissing me off, so I pulled it off again..... I still have a leak from the back corner..... gonna check it again for flatness, cross my fingers and try sealing it again..... Also put a nylon washer on the drain plug instead of the copper one.... Damn synthetic oil just seems to find a way.....
  22. So I liked 2 out of the 3 changes, the main and air corrector didnt do what I thought..... but it did help balance out half throttle and wot on the highway my air/fuel stayed right around 13... But now I would go richer just off idle... so I actually went 1 down on my idle jet and opened my air fuel screw about half a turn..... and my transition got much better..... I'm staying pretty close to 13 all around..... Gonna drive it like this for a bit and see how it likes it.... but this is definitely the most stable setup yet.....
  23. So the main and air corrector didnt do what I thought..... but it did help balance out half throttle and wot on the highway my air/fuel stayed right around 13... But now I would go richer just off idle... so I actually went 1 down on my idle jet and opened my air fuel screw about half a turn..... and my transition got much better..... I'm staying pretty close to 13 all around..... All I can say is stick with it, I'll try to make suggestions if I can.....
  24. Got a new sticker yesterday .... That was the first time anyone but me has driven that truck in probably 20 years...... Made a minor, well 3 minor changes to my jetting during lunch today.... see what that does on my way home....
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