Jump to content

Crashtd420

Senior Member
  • Content Count

    2,946
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Crashtd420

  1. I stopped looking at shipping costs, up here in Massachusetts I have to order just about everything for my 521..... I calculate it into the cost of the part and decide from there. ... if the total is acceptable then I buy it..... There has been a few times i have paid equal and/or more shipping then the cost of the part..... What choice do we have.... Live without it... Make your own Or pay what some one or the shipping company wants....
  2. Maybe some pics might help.... You mentioned maybe bending the shifter.... I think the 620s used the 71b series transmission and they were 4 or 5spd and the same length so shifter location should be the same..... Is the shifter correct for the 620? If I'm right there are a couple different shifters that would work with the transmission...
  3. Ok so the timing control and display info comes from a Holley distributor..... you might be able to display feed back by using one of those msd boxes.... I was quick skimming the install guide, theres alot of info there..... And this seems like its ment for a larger ford motor .... I would definitely inquire about how it would function on a small displacement motor.....
  4. You are right, the Holley efi definitely shows the air fuel, and it includes the wideband o2 in the kit..... So ya unless you plan on staying with the carburetor I wouldn't both..... What i also noticed was it showed ignition timing on that handheld screen.. I wonder how they are getting that information....
  5. I love my L series too.... Too many swaps happening with already running vehicles, for me it seemed like keeping the L was being different especially since I have the L16.... And a long time ago i switched the points to pertronix, and now i have the 123 ignition.... As far as dealing with the carb, I installed an air/fuel gauge and a wideband o2..... recently just bought some jets and stuff and have been trying to tune my setup..... that might be an idea , gets you some real time info about what the carb is doing..
  6. I like the hangers.... If I can get my exhaust to come out half as good as yours I'd be happy..... And you guys are killing me about the cutout..... now I'm really rethinking it... What's probably gonna happen is I'll redo from the collector to the muffler adding the nice bends and resonator and keep the muffler and stack in place to see how it sounds....
  7. I hear you.... at the time when I was looking into efi it just seemed like I was about to jump down a rabbit hole of expenses..... I was already way over budget so I stuck with the carburetor..... I figured I'd rather have the truck running with a carb now and figure out efi later with a running motor.... So I get the desire for efi, but I was curious why your looking into a 123 ignition distributor? You still running points or is there something wrong with your distributor? Just curious...
  8. Ya I know what you mean I'm still trying to fully understand the whole timing curve thing..... This is the main screen to set the mechanical advance..... I think this was what I used to get it running, i have tweaked it since..... It's pretty easy, pick your rpm and timing number and that's it.... adding the vacuum advance is the part I dont get.. It has a similar screen.... As far as interacting with the efi, I'm not sure, seems like they would separately do their thing.... at least with the sniper kit..... I would definitely over do it and build it for boost even if you dont at the moment ... and reverse your needs from there back to spark... that way your not buying something that may or may not be compatible or needed..... I think with the 123 dizzy you could use the vacuum advance for boost, the gauge in the app shows +/- pressure.... Dont turbo lower the timing slightly under boost? So think about things like that and what other controller like megasquirt and haltech need and do.... are they only fuel delivery or do they handle the spark too.... If the system wants a crank angle sensor input then getting the 123 doesnt make sense because at that point you might as well go distributor less.... The programming would probably be similar.....
  9. Ya I go quoted $300 for only about half way, the guy was barely even listening to me explain what I needed.... I figure it would be closer to $500 to get it set up like I wanted.... because I needed a new muffler too.... no thanks... I would rather do it myself at this point... and I hate exhaust work....
  10. Yes I agree.... that's basically what I'm thinking with the body line to the rear.... I've even thought about forming my own front lip/valance.... I'm not a fan of the duck bill ones, plus I dont have the lower valance up front to mount it on, so I wanna try to do something different.... And I'll make sure the exhaust doesnt hang down, trust I'm trying to keep it up and hidden the best I can...
  11. Thanks for checking my build out, atleast it looks like you got to the interesting stuff.... And I don't think the adapter will be too bad, just need to see where the bores need to be and where the bolts need to be but seems very possible...... As far as the distributor.... Pros.... They are extremely well build, the is no slop in the unit at all.... I believe they machine all the internals and the body.... Um not sure what else.... other than the obvious advantages of converting to an electronics distributor.... and it's a bit better because its programmable.... Cons..... It's still a distributor with a cap and rotor... but that's the nature of a distributor.... caps and rotors wear out.. I had a problem, only in the extreme cold, with the bluetooth... In my opinion I think the drive keyway could be a little tighter but I believe it's the same width as datsun distributors, so really it's right to spec... I think I only measured. 010 or .020 clearance so it's tight but not that tight... it's not an issue.... oh it was 180 degrees off you know this pic... Not a big deal just dropped the oil spindle and aligned to the distributor.. As far as programming that was easy, setup was also easy..... takes a second to match the display to the timing light but once you get it you can adjust timing purely from the app..... What I found difficult was understanding what information to put into the parameters... I was lucky that I dont have to figure out the vacuum advance portion because I have a side draft carburetor.... I used it as a mechanical advance setup only so I deleted all the vacuum setting.... Yes it comes with some baseline info programmed into it, probably enough to get it to run but it needs to be altered.... Once you get it set it just does its job... The bluetooth is nice while driving, it has a full display plus GPS speedometer, and you can also adjust the timing on the fly to see if it help or just incase its pinging you can lower it..... For me being high compression and running a side draft this seemed like my best option.... tunable incase of pinging and full (digital) mechanical... and it was bolt on.... it would honestly take about 30 minutes to swap it on ..... I'm not sure really what else to say about it.... probably better to ask me a little more direct questions so I dont just ramble.... but I think that's too late...
  12. I have my game plan I tried to buy enough but not to much..... I'm actually gonna try to put the muffler behind the axle so I can add one of those annoying exhaust cutouts.... Hopefully muffler will exit driveside and cutout will exit passenger.... Then I'm hoping to make 2 exhaust tips that hopefully blend to the sides of the bed behind the wheels but before the bumperettes...... I like how Mr big tanker extended the bed sides after the cab, I'd like to do some thing similar and keep the lower body line from the front to the back and incorporate the tips into the rear most extention..... if that makes any sense..... Maybe I'll play with some card board soon to show my idea.....
  13. So hopefully I can make a better system with this stuff.... Plus a couple of these... I hate the ones that just crush the pipe so I'll see how these do... I'll weld most of it up but the resonator and cutout are stainless so I'll use these at those joints...
  14. This build cracks me up and impresses me everytime .... keep it up..... On the front I would roll the bottom in some .. right now it looks way to flat ....
  15. This will help.... http://www.davidcmurphy.com/olddat/620tech.htm
  16. Ok now I'm sold on that Holley sniper efi, had that been available I might have gone that route too... did you see the mounting template...? I would print that and compare it to the Weber.... actually you should be available to verify the hole placement very easily with a tape measure....
  17. The Holley efi is definitely the nicest and most complete setup but it looks like you'll need to make a custom mount for it.... not to big a deal.... The other 2 seem bolt on to a weber intake but all you get is the throttle body from what I can see .... So more parts are probably needed..... I do like that there are more choices and Availability now.... i swear 3-5 years ago most of this wasnt available or it was crazy expensive..... they even have efi dcoe side draft look alikes..... and other throttle bodies for the side draft setups.... Look here too... https://store.jenvey.co.uk As far as the 123 ignition it's a very well manufactured unit...... I have the bluetooth model on my 521..... My honest opinion is this, it all depends on your motor.... for most it is over kill... the datsun match box dizzy even the pertronix upgrade is very similar.... The benefit is the that it looks like a stock distributor, the tuning and the ability to program it without a vacuum signal. I bought it because I'm running a single side draft and 10.7:1 compression on my motor and this gave me a fully mechanical and tunable distributor.... The only negative was the bluetooth, to me it seems like it doesnt like to connect when it's really cold... that part sucked because It has a security lock out and I use it because the 521 has no steering lock and honestly it would take about 30 seconds to hot wire the truck and steal it.... so if you go this route I recommend the usb connected one, unless the cold wont be a factor.... at the point mine doesnt like to connect I'm not driving it anyhow so the truck is safe in the garage..... Also if you do buy it order 1 or 2 extra rotors.... they are special and cost 25... but if you need just 1 they charge almost 20 to ship it..... I tried to find the rotors local and they are all garbage, and I have a bmw distributor cap part number for it too.... better quality then the parts store stuff..... I had a slight miss fire I think was related to the cap and probably the rotor.. I would swap caps and it would temporarily go away..... Now I have a new rotor and the bmw cap so I'm hoping it's gone this year... Now with that said, what about going distributor less, with a crank trigger and coil packs? I know the wheels and triggers are not too expensive but I have no idea what it takes to make it all work..... or even how the efi would interact with it.... This why I stuck with carb and dizzy, for now....
  18. Ya there should be 2, I looked up a wiring diagram after I posted just to make sure... it shows 2.... I have a 521 so I am not sure where yours would be mounted... mine were one next to the other near the steering column....
  19. Well I figure since I'm already back up on jack stands I might add the resonator to the exhaust and my start redoing the rest.... well I bought this ..... Had 2" pipes and a slightly larger resonator.... What a piece of shit..... I was trying to do the one stop shop, nope that's not gonna work.... that promptly got returned...... I'm just gonna by some mandrel bent tubes and a separate resonator and do it right....
  20. Maybe I'm wrong but shocks wont really lift a truck, maybe a tiny bit if your shocks are junk.... you could actually drive around with out shocks, truck wont be any lower, just be over bouncey.... Maybe your thinking about air shocks? Are you trying to raise the whole truck? Or just the rear for the heavier loads? If that's the cause air shocks will get you back to ride height with the extra weight... They even sell the self leveling add on air bag kits.... add it right to you existing setup.... something like this...
  21. Wouldnt you need 2 of those flasher relays? There should be 1 for the turn signals and a 2nd for the 4 way flashers.... Try the new flasher relay on the 4 way, should make them work too....
  22. Yes that's why I left it alone too....
  23. The pic is just before I realized you have to rotate the tail housing some to get it off.... so it looks a little wierd....
  24. Mike Is there another spring other that the one you showed in the pic ? The spring I removed with the cap seemed good.... not broken that I could tell.... but there was rust on the end of the spring. .... And the part on the end that accepts the shifter .... Kind of a bad pic, but I never removed...
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.