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Crashtd420

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Everything posted by Crashtd420

  1. Since I'm impatient and want all the parts here when I start messing with the alternator I ordered the 3rd tensioner. Should be the best for what I want to try to do.... Also ordered a 9" fan.... cant hurt....
  2. Good to know.... thanks.... I'm leaning towards upgrading one of my fans to a 9" with a higher cfm, and it would cover that side of the radiator more.... I would do both but clearance to the water pump is tight.... Atleast I can be confident I'm not over heating.... I'm gonna check the temperature when I get home.... I'm expecting a 195 reading which I guess is acceptable .... if I can drop that a little while idling around town I'd be happy....
  3. For added reference... This was after driving to work this morning... about 80 out and not running the a/c. Temp gun reading at the thermostat housing was 185....
  4. Poking around in the garage and apparently I have dual 7" fans.... Radiator area is 20 x 10 so I'm gonna see if I can find some better fans.... No room for a pusher fan either....
  5. One thing I noticed now when I'm am actually running my a/c is that the truck seems to be running a little warmer than normal around town.... My truck has always ran just a bit over the center mark.... even on a hot day... While running the a/c and driving on the highway it seems normal, maybe just a little warmer.... When I get off the highway its only about a 5 or 6 minute drive to my house doing 30 mph.... when I got home the needle was here..... I have to manually unlock and open my garage... I left the truck running , with the a/c on while I did that and for a minute while I was looking for my IR gun... of course the batteries died after one reading, so not to sure its accuracy.. Any how temp gun read 195 at the thermostat housing.. And needle was here by the time I backed in an parked.... I know the condenser is sheading hot air which is being blown across the radiator... from what I've read a slight increase in temperature is normal.... I have thought about adding a small pusher fan to the condenser or possibly upgrading my current fans if it would help.... Current setup is Dual 10" fans with a 3row aluminum radiator.... Should I be concerned? Is it getting too hot? What would be too hot? Any thoughts?
  6. So I found 3 tensioners that might work.... I was going to try to use an auto tensioning type but that seems like a bigger pain.... my though is to make something stationary that would bolt on to the alternator brackets and would take up most of the slack... then tension it slightly the normal way.... 1) has a v pulley and would have to run under the belt... not too bad... 2) would go above the belt... no idea about what that bolt would do for adjusting... I'd probably make that bracket flat for what I want to do. 3) is the one I like the most... I'll have to cut it up to fit but has more metal to attach to a mounting point... Any opinions?
  7. Finding just the pulley was a little tricky but I think I found it.... it was more about the alternator than the vehicle... Also ordered the wiring plug too.... same for the d21 with the KA as the earlier maxima ... Deciding now on what parts to order for a tensioner system.... I think it would be better especially with the clearance to the idler arm....
  8. Its definitely gonna be tight, I do have a tensioner idea brewing just incase.... I know it will physically fit but if I can tension it properly I'm still not sure yet....
  9. Yup I found that.... looks like the ka d21 is the v pulley....
  10. I miss shops like that.... getting harder to find locals like that..... Shops cant compete with the cheap junk people are willing to buy.... funny thing is you end up spending more time and labor in the end dealing with the junk.... This is one of the reasons I didn't wanna start down this rabbit hole, I was trying to keep the buying down to a minimum, but the core is costing me 40, which I'm cannabaizing.. So if I can give them my old altenator and get the 40 core money back for a pulley that would work.. guess I'll look it up and see what I can find.... I want to order a plug anyhow.... Thanks....
  11. Funny thing is the alternator case said nissan on it... I know that doesnt mean to much since it's a remanufactured unit.... Any how ran into my first issue.... Wasnt expecting the v pulley be 2 piece and they have a square edge for anti rotation.... the serpentine one was tight to remove, close tolerances.. . I'm thinking about just rounding out the pulley hole so I can assemble it and check spacing... I was going to grind some flat on the altenator shaft but didnt wanna ruin it yet.... I still have a chance to return it... If it all lines up I was going to take the pulley off the one in the truck that would still have the anti rotation edges.... Unfortunately I dont have a bunch of spares to play with.... I'm thinking a flat on the altenator shaft is the better way to final assemble it.... I also need a spacer.. By my math it needs to be .250 thick right now the thinner of the 2 is .350.. Gonna bring to work tomorrow and thin in down and take about .050 off the diameter... close fit to the case also.... Right now I'm only sacrificing an old altenator...
  12. I decided to try to get a few more amps out of my altenator setup.... while its starts out at 14.2, it quickly drops to 13v as things turn on, fuel pump, cooling fans and the a/c or heat blower motor... I also like to always have my lights on so people see me .. Battery rests at 12.5 so battery is still good.... So I picked up a 90amp internally regulated altenator for 1986 nissan maxima... trying to keep the modifications to a minimum.... From oriellys.... Diameter was close enough... The older altenator in the picture is my 50 amp externally regulated altenator .. its exactly the same size and the 60amp internally regulated altenator i'm currently running.... Mounting points are the same.... I will have to swap the pulley.... But its looks like if I swap just the pulley without the external fan it will be where I need it... hopefully that's the only mod I'll need to do.... If clearance becomes an issue I have an idea to add a tensioner onto the alternator bracket if needed....
  13. I actually just bought some of the lazer iridium plugs for my wifes Subaru and just went to have a look.... I spent $40 for a set of 4, I did buy them off ebay so I was a little worried after reading this.. One thing I noticed was if you read the listing the cheaper ones while marked ngk were listed as unbranded.... The ones I bought stated they are ngk brand and they seem to be legitimate from the way ngk tells you to identify them.... This from the ngk website... http://www.ngk-sparkplugs.jp/english/techinfo/fake/index.html I could actually see the ngk marked In the wrong location in the ebay pictures..
  14. Wow, I'd say that's hard to believe but this day and age everything gets copied... That's almost something that should be it's own topic so everyone knows.... I always use ngk and recommend them... hopefully I bought the good ones.
  15. I guess that test light way works, just never heard of doing it it like that.... My brain couldnt grasp why the light would illuminate on just the negative... Had a little more coffee and I get it now....
  16. We need to get together and terrorize the roads with our trucks..... I have an idea to try, get someone to remove the battery terminal while you listen for a clicking sound.... wondering if you have a relay of something powered up that doesnt need to be.... When I upgraded to an internally regulated altenator i didn't bypass the choke relay... every time i reconnected the battery I'd hear a click.. found the relay and unplugged it.... How are you actually testing for a draw? Test light? Shouldnt it be an ohmmeter inline on the negative?
  17. Crashtd420

    Timing

    Kind of sounds like a vacuum leak.... check the base gasket of the carburetor... Easy test is get the motor running and spray some carburetor clean around the base ... if the engine revs up on it's own that's your leak....
  18. Crashtd420

    Timing

    I am running a temp sensor and relays for the fans... they come on once the truck is at temperature and will stay on for a little when I shut the truck off till the truck cools down ....
  19. Crashtd420

    Timing

    I know you said you drove it home , but have you been able to drive it since the carburetor and distributor upgrades? Even at night, like the drive home, when it is a little cooler? I just dont see how those 2 things would be causing it to over heat.... but I could be wrong.... How far past half way does the needle go? Where is it when the truck is off and during initial start up? Another thing is do you have or can you borrow a ir temperature gun? Maybe check the upper and lower radiator hose to make sure the temp gauge is reading properly.... I have an L16 also with the 3row aluminum radiator and dual 10" fans... my needle stays just a hair above halfway all the time .... I'd be happy to take some temp reading from different locations if that would help..... Mainly I'm just back tracking to make sure it's not something simple like the temp sender or gauge....
  20. Crashtd420

    Timing

    Here is a question.... Did you verify which way is the fan blowing? If it's out front it should be a pusher style fan.... blowing air across the radiator... My thought on that is if the previous owner got the wrong fan and made it spin the opposite way, that the fan blades would be oriented wrong.... Not even sure if a pull style fan could be wired backwards to making it push but it's something to verify.....
  21. Crashtd420

    Timing

    Just saw this.... kind of rules out the head gasket.... it would happen all the time.....
  22. The hole is just a little to small to just install those, with the suspension assembled its basically impossible to drill the hole bigger... It's is possible to tap the hole to the thread size of those bump stops, without redrilling.. I used energy suspension ones, of course now I cant seem to find out what size the thread was.. .. I just did this on my truck... greaser2 if you want me to find that info let me know... it's on one of the pages in my thread.... Edit: couldnt find the page but verified on summit the thread is 3/8-16...
  23. Mike that M2 block picture I posted is the L16 in my truck....
  24. Ya that was pretty ugly, my engine was on its last leg when I tore it down.... the motor did not go back together with any rtv.... I did use the form a gasket for my oil pan though, that worked really good....
  25. The only other feature I know of are 4 bolt holes around the oil filter.... I think that was for a bolt on oil filter relocation... not sure if that was year related too...
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