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Crashtd420

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Everything posted by Crashtd420

  1. I just double checked the cable from the battery to the post under the hood... Its approximately 14ft long and by this chart its 1/0.. From the chart stroffgren posted earlier in the post, that should be good..... As far as the voltage drop test I didnt know that.... I'll give it a try this weekend and see if it tells me anything.... Thanks...
  2. I just checked and the old serpentine pulley it was 2.75 od.... The new one is 2.9 inch but the belt rides deeper in the groove vs a flat serpentine belt.... V belt about .375 thick Serpentine about .125 thick.... Would you actually be comparing the od or where the belt is actually riding? Is .200 enough of a difference that it would even matter?
  3. I do have a voltage gauge but to be honest it sucks.... my distributor with the bluetooth connection is giving me a more accurate reading and I verified its accuracy with a volt meter ( which I think is good) I also checked at the battery and various places and grounds while it was idling and I got the same reading everywhere so I dont think it's the wiring .... I dont know if the relocation of the battery is a factor or not.... The wierd thing is when I was idling I noticed the voltage actually came up... I was driving and it was around 13.0, I stopped for gas and when I restarted the truck it jumped up to 14, then settled around 13.5.... once I started driving I saw it drop to 13 again.... Same accessories were on ... headlights, fans and fuel pump... I tried turning the ac system on a few times for the extra load and it recovers and still hangs out at 13....
  4. So this morning's drive to work didnt impress me... Maybe I'm over thinking it but I just feel like I shouldn't be seeing a voltage drop.. I know the alternator is coming on, I can see the voltage jump up to 14-14.2 once its started, but it seems to be settling in around 13.2-13.5 while driving... Even if I turn things on or off I dont see it really fluctuate ... the voltage does seem more stable but I feel like it should be closer to 14v while driving.... I upgradred to 4gauge for the wiring to the alternator and starter... checked and there was zero resistance to the cable... rest of the wiring seems good, and I've made sure the lamp and sense are wired properly.. I know I'm comparing this to a newer vehicle and after reading today some say the alternator output is normal ... So I'm really not sure if anything is wrong or not... Gonna run it for now and just keep a mental note of the voltage...
  5. Crashtd420

    '80 720 L20B

    Personally if you have the motor out and going that far into the motor I would just pull the timing cover and not bother with the wedge..... Then you can reset everything properly and make sure it's all assembled correctly.... At this point I wouldn't trust anything the previous owner might have done....
  6. Just had the battery tested.... Tested fine... they said 12.5 and 85% charged.... I'm gonna leave it on a trickle charger for the night and reinstall it.... And while the 8 gauge wire by the chart should be adequate because it's only 14 inches long I'm going to upgrade it to the 4 gauge regardless.....
  7. Ya the 4 gauge to the interior is probably overkill, but it was basically the remaining terminal on my distribution block.... I'll probably reconfigure things a little...
  8. I have the battery under the bed, chassis ground is 1ga, main power from battery to distribution block is 1 gauge... I think I have 8ga for the power wire from the starter and alternator to a distribution box.... there is a 4gauge that goes into the cab to supply power to everything( fuse panel is inside) and I have a 1ga chassis to engine ground and the alternator has an 8 gauge ground added.. I can easily upgrade to 4 gauge where I have the 8 gauge.. I have some stuff laying around..... And yes the sense wire is ran like stock, in a sense.. I did do the wiring to convert to an internally regulated altenator...
  9. I'm not 100% happy yet with the alternator swap.... I would think a 90amp altenator shouldn't really drop voltage... i do start off with 14.4- 14.2 on start up, then I'm around 13.3 - 13.5. With headlights, 2 radiator fans, fuel pump and a/c running.... I was dropping down to 12.8-13 before..... so it is an improvement ... I still have to get my core charge back for the alternator so I pulled the battery for the hell of it to have it tested..... It measures 12.5 at rest but it is about 4 years old... so I'm just gonna make sure it's still good....
  10. So as far as drive line angle best I can tell is I have a 1 degree seperation.... The tremec toolbox app wasnt to bad, I didnt use it like I was suppose to but more as a digital angle finder.. And the alternator swap went good... I actually was able to fit it without the bullshit of a tensioner.... kind of glad.. Clearance to the pitman arm... Altenator installed....
  11. I'm hopefully gonna get some time in the garage today to check the driveline.... Yesterday the alternator pulley showed up .... Fit really good and let's me use the old nut no problem.... And alignment seems good.... I'm confident I can bolt it up and have the belt aligned, just need to see if I have room to tension or If i have to move forward with my tensioner idea...
  12. Would that be a good thing or bad thing? I'm not planning to make a huge S out the belt .... if that makes any sense.... Imagine the straight line between the alternator and water pump pulley.... I want to press down there maybe 1/2 inch just to remove the slack in the belt, then tension like normal..... Does that make any sense?
  13. This beast of a unit showed up .... Way bigger than I expected but seems feasible to make something work out of it.... I'd like to have it attach to the alternator bracket so It can ride on the top part of the belt.... I'm going to try to work out the tensioner idea while I have an alternator and belt that fits...
  14. This is my first and only lowered vehicle, I've never messed with any of this before... when I did the blocks I was told they angle down toward the front.... As far as for now I'm gonna take some measurements tomorrow and decide the best course of action for the summer with the current setup.... It does feel good with the new u joint but I still feel a little something.... And on the coilovers I will be doing the 3 link with the watts link next winter.... I have it waiting for me in the basement... I'll have a look at those calculators... Thanks... I actually just down loaded an app.... Tremec toolbox..... It takes angle measurements with your phone and spits out information.... I'm gonna take my own measurements and compare what I find.... I'll update if the app is any good....
  15. Stroffgren I can make adjustments at the transmission and the carrier bearing location if needed.... they are both shimmed.... I did similar to what you said when i built my transmission mount.. So why do they sell angled blocks then? Doesnt that tilt the differential down? This is a subject that I have very little to no knowledge about.... I'd like to know more now so when I finally do the coilovers in the rear I'll have an idea how to set it up.... Thanks ....
  16. I actually have a carrier bearing from a Volvo installed on my driveshaft.... Has it's own pedestal, so some shimming is neccessary regardless.... Everthing else was tight , the u joint I replaced had some side to side play...
  17. So if the the differential flange was pointing down 2 degrees you would want the transmission flange to point 2 degrees up right? On the 2 piece driveshaft we can use the flange after the carrier bearing right?
  18. Just to verify checking pinion angle.... I know I want the truck on the ground.... Where should I be placing the angle finder? And how much angle do I want? I've read about 4 degree difference Is good.
  19. Shouldn't be the tires.... they are brand new and balanced.... I might have a 1000 miles on them..... Vibration was definitely better.... I think it goes back to the fact I lowered the rear but didnt do much with the carrier bearing.... I replaced the ujoint last year but drove around a while before I properly shimmed the carrier. I will probably double check the pinion angle again this weekend.....
  20. I've been feeling a little extra vibration around 50 to 60 mph.... oddly it smooths out a bit if I go faster..... Either way gave the u-joints a check and the center one was a bit loose. I did mark everything before it took it out.. I had a new one with a grease fitting on my shelf so decided to swap it out.... Back together.... This went together much better and felt real good.. test drive will be work tomorrow morning.....
  21. Crashtd420

    '80 720 L20B

    As far as the transmission gap it looks like your missing the metal plate the goes on the block... I believe I goes behind the fly wheel..... This thing Just searched ebay for a pic and a couple came up....
  22. I agree with edm620 about the pistons being dished, but My L16 pistons did not have valve pockets like yours do.. I So you might have something better than stock L16 pistons..... hard to say more without pulling the head off and measuring.....
  23. Out of curiosity I decided to look up other brands than Ngk as being counterfeit.... Guess what you can find counterfeit versions of every brand spark plug.... Ngk Bosche Denso and Champion to name a few.... I would still go with the ngk... Go to Ngks website and they should have a list of legitimate suppliers.....
  24. Crashtd420

    Red's 520

    This should be it.... No longer available throughout that sight so I didn't post a link....
  25. Crashtd420

    Red's 520

    There are a few here who have made home made brackets.... myself included.... Basically what I did was assemble things with the old original mount... Then removed the metal mount, bolted the new $20 rubber mount to the transmission... cut, splice weld, you get the idea.... you get something like this... Not the prettiest but its stong...
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