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Crashtd420

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Everything posted by Crashtd420

  1. I here you rick-rat didn't think your were putting him down.... I actually sent him the dizzy with the petronix and was the first to hope he wouldn't switches the parts around ... I understood after... Truck not running, didn't have a timing light or extra hoses.... He solved his problem, atleast that one temporarily with what he had and can now drive it till parts show up...
  2. I gotta defend DP a little.... at least with the vacume unit on the dizzy.... Some people are good at MacGyver ing stuff and some arent.... he did what he felt confident with to keep the truck running and driving.. Personally I think the whole popped cam chain tensioner made him a little too cautious on some other easier things, but that's how we learn.. Try , fuck up , ask questions, fix, and don't do that again.... I tend to forget the easy things I've done but my mistakes and fixes I'll never forget....
  3. How about usimg this kit on the mirrors you have?
  4. Just keep your points and the petronix where they are... gaps are already set..
  5. Please don't, both units work , why start pulling parts off one for the other... But not my stuff any more... i'd rather see you just pop the new dizzy in its all set and it works....
  6. Good luck gene, stay on him... even If he gets it in primer I'd get it out of there.... hopefully find a real body shop to finish and get the color on....
  7. He is on ebay... beebani1028 is his user name there.... has about 13 items up for sale....
  8. Well all the little parts are as ready as they are gonna be . . Hopefully I can start the paint process next Friday Degrease, then metal prep , then some more por 15.... If I am lucky I'll have the hood ready for next weekend.... After that fenders and doors..... Running out of time.... the August deadline I set for myself is looking a little tuff to meet..
  9. Ok the hard line is the vacume advance... the Webber has a nipple so just connect the weber to the dizzy with a rubber line.... The electric stuff from the hitachi doesn't matter anymore with the weber... disconnect and leave with the hitachi...
  10. And I just double checked my wiring and it the same as shown. 4plug, plus one extra lead....
  11. This is my 521 used it for referce... Found this on eBay this looks very similar. Opinion only.... or someone can verify that this will work....
  12. I can see why you like those... Pretty sweet, nice find....
  13. All depends on the actual asking price... Could be worth it for the parts...
  14. It would be a sweet conversion to stick that front end on a 620 pickup.... May as well get the inline 6 in there to...
  15. I think I just drooled alittle... Inline 6 too..
  16. Are the quarter windows the same too? Not sure how easy those are to find... I did see a complete door on eBay for a 521.... might be worth it if it has both windows.... I can see the quarter window in the pic but not the main one....
  17. What is your end goal? What's wrong with your L20? And what head is on it? I assume the z24 is what the 5 spd transmission fits... do you know what transmission model is? Maybe use the head from your l20, and steal the cam and rockers out of the l16 head..... and hope the carbs aren't as bad as they look. And the 210 is just the least desirable head, on the l20 I think the compression increases is about .4, if I remember a stock l20 had a cr of 9.5 to 1.. but if it has a cam maybe it's had some porting done... Alot of ifs with that purchase.
  18. Ah I think you were asking datzenmike
  19. Do you mean that window from eBay? Says Springfield Oregon....
  20. From what everyone said this should be you fix... look under 521 door glass
  21. Ok added start point.... Battery Starter Fuse block Ignition switch.... I was re reading trying to get a better idea of the situation.... But make sure your starter has power and the little spade gets power from the key when you turn the key to the crank position...
  22. And I say volt meter because even low voltage can turn a cheap test light on... they have there use but volt meter in my opinion is the better way.... maybe grab both if you like.. chase the power around with the cheapy and verify voltage as needed....
  23. And get rid of that fram on your next oil change.... that's gonna be everyone s comment when they see the pics.... I've proved to my self they suck.... no one here likes them.... so far bosch and wix I believe are top choice.... And just because you said your novice I'll add this ... What are you running for oil? Some modern oil aren't good for these engines... I'm using royal purple personally, some like rotella diesel motor oil... they are high in zinc and phosphate Better for flat tappet cams....
  24. My recommendation is get a decent volt meter and learn how to use it... Start at the battery for a base line of what your voltage is and then start checking.... two places I would start is fuse block and ignition switch....
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