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Crashtd420

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Everything posted by Crashtd420

  1. There is on the end with the adjuster ... if you remove the torsion bar from the a arm you don't need to worry about the clip... just remove the adjuster bolt and pull the whole bar out... as others have said mark where things are now to help know where things were once you start pulling the bars out...
  2. Let me say sorry for getting things off track on your post.. I was curious what the solution was as I have the same situation... I personally don't believe your question was actually answered. So good luck. I hope to see what you do to correct it...
  3. And Daniel if the manual comment was for me yes I have plenty of books to refer to. This is all a simple question/ statement gone bad...
  4. Wow some one woke on the wrong side of the bed... do you need a hug?.... I agree they need to be bled so I don't understand what your issue is... The first thing rinigado said was he had not bled the rear brakes yet and thenot the posts went straight to adjusting the ebrake with no mention of bleeding. And then you chimed in on my comment ... now this guy's post is littered with our conversation.. you could have simply stated yes it need to be bled first... i never assume any thing has been done....
  5. OK so here's waynos post you copied and highlighted... no where does it say to bleed first.. only says when brakes are done/adjusted... maybe your assuming done means bled but that's not how it reads... all I was trying to do was clarify...
  6. That wasn't clear to me in waynos post about bleeding the brakes. No where did he say bleed the system first. it just talked about adjusting the clearance on the drums and shoes.... and without jacking this guy's thread. Yes I know about wheel chocks but I need to load mine on a trailer soon with no hydrolic brakes hooked up ... I wanted some way to stop it on its own....
  7. I agree the ebrake may be set to tight but Doesnt the system need fluid and to be bleed properly before setting the ebrake? I assume you'd want the wheel cylinders extended and the hydrolic part of the brakes set before adjusting out the ebrake.. Just asking this because that's exactly how mine came out . right now I am without a master cylinder so i cant bleed my system but I needed the ebrake at least to keep the truck from moving..
  8. Crossing my fingers on the whole gears wear together as a set theory and that with a new crank gear i need a new distributor spindle. Should have a new spindle by Wednesday so we shall see. I really wish I could find the old one....
  9. I don't think i have the wrong spindle... i think its worn and engaging the new gear incorrectly. Originally i had the belief that i had a brass gear on the crank. So my thought was how could the gear on the spindle ever get messed up... well it can if its steel.. my belief is I have everything correct as far as diameters of the parts and tooth counts. But there has to be some error in my spindle due to the years of use. I am not sure how these gears wear in but over time some thing must change .. my belief is I need a new set... crank gear and spindle.... both need to be new to fix..
  10. Thanks... I appreciate it... being up in new England can make things a real pain in the ass.. at this point a new crank gear and spindle shaft can't hurt..
  11. Copied this last line from Daniel's post... guess I should have bought the spindle first... at least what I already got looks nicer.... cost of learning I guess....
  12. Well here's an update to a costly mistake... just tried the oem gear on the crank. And while it looks much nicer.. The spindle still doesn't install all the way... identical to how it fit the other gear... so I guess I am buying a new spindle now to match my new crank gear....
  13. Picking up the brand new oem gear i ordered today on my way home from work.. hoping I don't have to buy another spindle shaft but who really knows at this point wtf is happening... It has to be one of the 2.. because without the shaft in everything rotates perfectly smooth in the engine.
  14. Ok I've never ran this gear.... to my knowledge it is new came with my new timing kit but who knows...
  15. That gear has Never been ran.... maybe I should have cleaned it . Had a light coating on it.. maybe an anti rust or something
  16. Still waiting on the gear but I did figure this out.... so on the pick Daniel posted #1 is actually what I have. 20 tooth 1.4 diameter on the spindle shaft... crank gear measured 1.975... I blew up the pic to match what I have and measured screen to get #2.. My best guess on #2 18 tooth gear 1.3 diameter About 2.200 on the crank gear.. going back to really hoping someone screwed up making the gear I have.... really wish the new one was here....
  17. Ok I read that a bit different... till I see the gear I ordered won't know for sure....
  18. if I remember correctly my motor had a brass gear on the crank.... and yes it's gone. my dumb ass probably scrapped it for 2 dollars. so this is probably the problem.. Pretty sure that's steel... So will I be able to use a new brass gear with my old distributor shaft?
  19. Ahhh and there's an answer.... so how do I know what I have? Whats the difference? I believe Everything was original to the motor and truck I hope the distributor shaft is. I ordered a crank gear for my year l16.. oem right from the dealership. Am I on the right track to fixing this or will the distributor shaft be a problem too....
  20. So here's a question the book states larger chamfer on gear faces the timing gear. And that this is critical.. why?.. and yes I verified mine was on correct, but what if it wasn't... say whomever made the gear put the chamfer on the wrong side .. what would happen? Just wondering if anyone knew .... At work thinking about my problem waiting for my new gear to compare things.
  21. Really hope its the problem.. thats why I went to the dealer for it instead of ebay...
  22. Had to do something similar.... had no air coming out when I bled my clutch but still had no peddle... I did the the master cylinder by doing an extra line back into the master.... still nothing but with the pedal all the way to the floor I covered the end of the line released the peddle and the master started sucking the fluid.... removed finger repeated.. reconnected lines bled the slave and I got a nice peddle and good movement on the slave... bleeding the master first is a must..
  23. Off the motor yes.. in that picture oil pump and shaft fit perfectly that not the gap i was talking about.. When I was installing the spindle shaft the crank gear was there in the way so it wouldn't allow the pump to go up all the way...
  24. Is that what you wanna see?.... I stacked it up on the crank pully... even like that it felt weird trying to rotate the assembly.. but without anything to compare it to I am kind of stuck waiting for new parts...
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