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Crashtd420

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Everything posted by Crashtd420

  1. So I got the new plugs in tonight and put a tune in my distributor, i ws4s able to test fire the engine... success... I was very quick to shut it off just enough to hear it try.. Just need to give it a once over and she'll be good to go to the dyno for break in...
  2. Just got the timing cover on correctly with both dowel pins installed this time.. Oil pump and distributor installed.. got good oil pressure on my gauge when I crank the motor and distributor is sparking.... Radiator and new plugs going on tomorrow.. One more step closer to starting the motor..
  3. Mines a 72 521 and a single master is all that ever seems to come up in searches.. one of my books shows a dual but it may have been an overseas thing. Not at all sure.
  4. Oops... got that backwards.... I knew they were different.... the mix on the 521 has been driving me crazy from day one ....
  5. Other thing about the master cylinder is the stock single for the 521 is metric and I think the 620 is sae... just something to keep in mind....
  6. I have to ask where do your skills come from? And how to you get everything so nice? Brackets and stuff? Cad system and cutting table?.... the detail and ingenuity is amazing.... don't even need to say keep up the good work....
  7. Wayno you wouldn't believe how close it was. I was beside myself. Even before I pinned it how slight I moved the cover and the problem went away.. This may be a good piece of info to pin somewhere else. Mostly about the 2 pins. Make sure they are there. They definitely are important to the alignment of the oil pump spindle..
  8. Thanks all for the help ideas and support.. I guess I shouldn't be to mad at myself. This was the first motor I ever built.. did a couple head gaskets but never something to this level.. now I can back to where I was 2 weeks ago.... glad I found the problem but all that for a damn 50cent dowel pin.... oh well... still need to reassemble only mocked up the parts last night... New date to fire the motor at the dyno shop will be February 12th. I will have plenty of video to share after that day. Thanks again to all....
  9. Son of a bitch... new parts and things still don't work. But I finally figured it out.. Damn timing cover was to blame.. stroffregen you said the right thing in your last post .. turns out on the block i was missing a locating pin on the bottom left.. made a pin from a 5mm drill and everything went together like it should. Oh well one hell of a learning curve on that one.... And yes I was able to line up my old spindle shaft with the other what should have been new crank gear so the whole replace as a set theory I guess doesn't really apply and yes I can't return the new stuff...... gonna use the new oem ones and I guess I have a back up set now... only good thing is I didn't waste my time draining the motor and taking the cover off but I didn't need to waste money on the new parts.... oh well..
  10. If your using a stock felpro I think it's only a 85mm bore and if your bored out to 86mm your exposing the fire ring which isn't good.... in my opinion the nismo one at 88.5 should be fine to run its plus 2.5mm in diameter.. The stock felpro headgasket covers the l16 and the l20... L16 stock is 83mm the l20 is 85mm Which is a 2mm difference... so.. I am sure other will chime in...
  11. When I did mine I just jacked the vehicle up in the front to take the tension off, let the wheels hang.. removed both torsion bars.. with the jack I could raise and lower the truck to see what i liked.. remember once reinstalled it will lower till tension is on the bars. May have to set a bit higher than your intending so it will be where you want under full weight... i reinstalled both and evened out the anchors to match. Once i was happy where the ride height was i adjusted the tension as the repair manual says.. the archor bolts will fine tune the height left to right.. There's probably a few ways to do it. If your on a lift or frames on jack stands you would have to jack up the a arm.. Once you start pulling it apart you'll understand more. it all depends how low your trying to go up front..
  12. Are these what your looking for... These are the 2 I replaced with new ones when I did my rear brakes but theres nothing wrong with them not even rusty... Pm me your address and I will throw them in the mail tomorrow will only cost me a stamp and I got one of those....
  13. The clip just holds what they call the anchor... remove the c clip and you can remove the anchor from the torsion bar... I guess it depends which end wants to free up easier... on mine the anchors were really rusted on so removing from the a arm was the easier way...
  14. There is on the end with the adjuster ... if you remove the torsion bar from the a arm you don't need to worry about the clip... just remove the adjuster bolt and pull the whole bar out... as others have said mark where things are now to help know where things were once you start pulling the bars out...
  15. Let me say sorry for getting things off track on your post.. I was curious what the solution was as I have the same situation... I personally don't believe your question was actually answered. So good luck. I hope to see what you do to correct it...
  16. And Daniel if the manual comment was for me yes I have plenty of books to refer to. This is all a simple question/ statement gone bad...
  17. Wow some one woke on the wrong side of the bed... do you need a hug?.... I agree they need to be bled so I don't understand what your issue is... The first thing rinigado said was he had not bled the rear brakes yet and thenot the posts went straight to adjusting the ebrake with no mention of bleeding. And then you chimed in on my comment ... now this guy's post is littered with our conversation.. you could have simply stated yes it need to be bled first... i never assume any thing has been done....
  18. OK so here's waynos post you copied and highlighted... no where does it say to bleed first.. only says when brakes are done/adjusted... maybe your assuming done means bled but that's not how it reads... all I was trying to do was clarify...
  19. That wasn't clear to me in waynos post about bleeding the brakes. No where did he say bleed the system first. it just talked about adjusting the clearance on the drums and shoes.... and without jacking this guy's thread. Yes I know about wheel chocks but I need to load mine on a trailer soon with no hydrolic brakes hooked up ... I wanted some way to stop it on its own....
  20. I agree the ebrake may be set to tight but Doesnt the system need fluid and to be bleed properly before setting the ebrake? I assume you'd want the wheel cylinders extended and the hydrolic part of the brakes set before adjusting out the ebrake.. Just asking this because that's exactly how mine came out . right now I am without a master cylinder so i cant bleed my system but I needed the ebrake at least to keep the truck from moving..
  21. Crossing my fingers on the whole gears wear together as a set theory and that with a new crank gear i need a new distributor spindle. Should have a new spindle by Wednesday so we shall see. I really wish I could find the old one....
  22. I don't think i have the wrong spindle... i think its worn and engaging the new gear incorrectly. Originally i had the belief that i had a brass gear on the crank. So my thought was how could the gear on the spindle ever get messed up... well it can if its steel.. my belief is I have everything correct as far as diameters of the parts and tooth counts. But there has to be some error in my spindle due to the years of use. I am not sure how these gears wear in but over time some thing must change .. my belief is I need a new set... crank gear and spindle.... both need to be new to fix..
  23. Thanks... I appreciate it... being up in new England can make things a real pain in the ass.. at this point a new crank gear and spindle shaft can't hurt..
  24. Copied this last line from Daniel's post... guess I should have bought the spindle first... at least what I already got looks nicer.... cost of learning I guess....
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