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Crashtd420

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Everything posted by Crashtd420

  1. And I guess I will try to sneak a bosch 3402 on for a slightly bigger one over what i have.. same as the Fram s16.. 3.75 long...
  2. I definitely didnt cut to much. the filter actually touched the mount... I kept the engine in a static location and modified one at a time so I know the engine wouldnt move and it stayed where it needs to be.. screw it. it's been cut and welded no going back.. at least I have a part number. .
  3. I really hate online sometimes. After Waynos comment I cross referenced a few numbers and it seems like the ones I used were for a 720. And it gets listed as a 521 mount... dea product a6353... I can't win.... well too late know....
  4. Maybe i missed something some where. At first i was gonna use a 510 mount. It was close but not perfect .. cutting the bracket wasnt my first choice but i couldnt figure another way.. Honesty yours look short compared to what i received.. I tried bolting things on and just wasn't even close... couldn't find anyone's post on motor mounts. So this is what a did... at least now they are cheap and easy to replace..
  5. What I figured out is you can use a filter from a 95 Volvo 850... The stock 521 s8 is 4.5 inches long And s16 is a little shorter around 3.5 And what I went with was the Volvo one. 3 inches long i plan to use the Bosch 3321 Using an stps7328 because it was in stock and I am gonna change it after 500 miles anyhow....
  6. My process was to install all the old stock mounts and one at a time cut the metal bracket to suit the 620 mount which was about half an inch taller... passenger side was a little harder. More stuff in the way... plus the oil filter wouldn't fit.
  7. Driver side and rear tranny were easy
  8. So here's my next mod... I got 620 motor mounts when I tried ordering new ones for a 521 with the l16.. so I decided to modify my mounts to except 620 motor and tranny mount easier to buy.... Next couple pics are the stock ones then I will post the 620..
  9. Oh here's a good part number. ... I think I've seen it posted somewhere else but I figured I'd post again... stock 521 crankshaft had a brass pilot bushing.. the six cylinder motors use a roller pilot bearing. Nissan part # 32202-09500 fits nice in the 4cyl L motors...
  10. So here's 2 other mods I have had to do.... first since the center bearing is hard to get I decided to see what the drive shaft shop could do.. they did a complete balance and over hall and i used a Volvo center bearing. .. Came from a 98-00 Volvo v70/570 Part number 14850-50 It bolted to two holes that were already in the frame where the bearing original mounted... I still bolted the stock bracket around it just in case..
  11. Working to get the engine to start. Relocated to battery.. this weekend.
  12. The grease fittings in mine are 1/4-28.. And ya the torque is crazy.... found it in a few different books and online so it has to be right.... overkill if you ask me but I didn't design it....
  13. Ya that's definitely something you wanna grease.... the lower fulcrum pin screw bushings had them too.... I will verify what fits when I get home... if I remember right the book says to remove plug install grease fitting grease then reinstall plug but all I ever had in mine were grease fittings....
  14. So I think I figured out why the books say to torque in a vice.. with out the cab on there's plenty of room but with the cab there is not.... inner fender well prevents access so I have to torque it from the engine bay.... since the only thing in my engine bay is the engine I have the room but if it was a complete truck I question the ability to get a wrench where you need to... Driver side... now look at your own 521 and see if you could get to the screw bushings... so to me it makes sense now.
  15. So I just wanna clarify. Yes I plan on torquing the bolts to the frame first. The stress I was concerned about would be to those bolts while I am tightening the screw bushings. But what you said should remain true the about the stress it's under while driving. And I do not have the shims in yet I am adjusting the ride height... I did a 2" block in the rear so I have to set the front which is what I am up to now. I will deal with the alignment next... thanks
  16. That's what I was thinking.... one thing I read was if lowering to loosen and torque at ride height.... but that was only said about that bushing above the kingpin... but I figured it was a good idea to tighten everything at ride height.... I guess my biggest concern is putting stress on the two bolts that hold the upper link spindle to the frame...
  17. And I just checked again and top of the list of torque specs say ft.lb...
  18. That's what I thought.... They just say take it to the dealer... I assume not may people have a torque wrench to handle that mine maxes at 150.... had to borrow a 250ft.lb one. From work...
  19. So I can't seem to find a clear answer about torquing the upper link screw bushings... I mocked everything up and was gonna torque everything once I went to set the ride high... didn't realize it needs 175ft.lbs . Can i torque it now or was i suppose to torque it in a vise first before before it's installed on the frame?
  20. OK cool.... ya hindsights a bitch. ... I did spend many nights grinding fitting measuring repeat.... I only get an hour or so after work to work in the garage.... I think I spend more time checking than grinding.... thanks...
  21. Thanks charlie69 for all the likes... the encouragement here is great...
  22. And I got in trouble.. hour old pajamas with fresh grease stains... sorry mom.
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