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Crashtd420

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Everything posted by Crashtd420

  1. At the bottom of the page there is a button for full version... then I think there is a way to edit the heading.... Full version displays a lot more info..
  2. I never actually new what they were called... I saw some one refer to them as vampire connectors ... G-daux i guess the biggest problem I've seen is that the people I have seen use them couldn't choose the correct one to use... If used they need to be used properly ... I guess moral of the story is use the right gauge wire and The right connector and protect that connection no matter what your preference.....
  3. I'm sure there are some variations to what I posted depend on what your trying to do.. I tend to use a combination of methods to get my wiring done.... Just trying to get people away from those vampire connections And ya those epoxy lined ones are neat..
  4. And this is the vampire connection incase someone doesn't know what connector I'm referring to....
  5. I've wanted to post this for a little while..... I keep seeing these vampire connectors in people's wiring.... When I use to install alarms and remotestarts and every time i had to repair someone else work i would find these.. the vampire connectors were the biggest cause of the systems malfunctioning.... This is a reference sheet to what that I think is a better way to make the connections....
  6. Large hands on a small hose does sound like a problem.... gigitty..
  7. I applaud your ambition.... Sounds like your only draw back is gonna be cash... If it was me I would do it in 2 stages. First Get your self a good runner..... fix and upgrade the neccessary things, and drive it... 2nd if you a really bent on a motor swap Get yourself a donor vehicle, that way you have most of what you'll need... Plan the whole motor swap out on the side... maybe build into a stand.... Then you get to drive the 510 while you prepare and buy everything neccessary for the swap... Good luck....
  8. Definately non of those vampire clips.. I use to do alarms and remote start work and every repair I had to due was due to those damn clips.... I was taught a poke and wrap method which works really well.... I had a tool that splits the cover exposing the wire, used a pointed tool to spread the copper wire, insert new connection, wrap new wire around the original wire and then some tape.. Only draw back is you can't use heat shrink tubes on the connection.... but I never had an issue just taping my connections....
  9. Do what wayno described.... And what you doing with the transmission is slipping the clutch, most likely the sound is the throwout bearing spinning because your holding a slight bit of pressure.... Your engine will act different under load versus just reving the engine in neutral... by slipping the clutch your kind of lessening the load on the engine. I would try not to do that to much unless you have to... you can end up burning up the clutch plate. Then you'll have another problem...
  10. This is the reinforment as viewed from the bottom.... ..
  11. Unless you have a donor you will need to get creative.... Try to cut it out in sections that you can still measure and reference... My passenger floor was gone... I used a 12x12 piece of sheet metal and cut past all the rust so I had clean metal to weld to.... not pretty but it's solid.... As far as the floor stiffener not to sure what to say on that....
  12. Before you put it back in, i would say it would be a Good time to put some paint on it..
  13. I don't know much about the ka, but if it's pre obd plugs.. there is a way to check on the factory module.... Try this link... http://my.prostreetonline.com/2014/08/19/how-to-read-nissan-ecu-error-codes/
  14. Sounds like a package deal would be best ... clean him out and get rid of what you don't need....
  15. Is It just the inner cable your trying to replace, then I would say yes it's possible. If the it's the outer case that is bad than maybe not.... the oem cable is threaded into the fire wall... Doesn't mean you can't get creative, but I do believe the oem cable is still available...
  16. Fluids are son of a bitch ... when driving it can flow in different ways.... then just settle once parked.... I would hate to see you spend 250, for a 50 cent rubber washer.....
  17. Well it's out see what a radiator shop says.. May only be a 20 fix ... Who knows... New radiator can never hurt unless you buy a pos...
  18. Is the 510 steering box like a 521.... I know the 521 has an adjuster... made a huge difference in my steering wheel once I adjusted it.
  19. It's more of a rubber flat washer..... I check my original radiator and when I pull the petcock out the rubber stayed in the radiator....
  20. That tits up statement is great.... Do you have a manual or electric choke? If it's electric take the aircleaner off and take a look.... as it warms up the choke butterflies should be opening.. Highly doubt it's a transmission problem from what you have said...
  21. For free take it... if not Offer a cheap price and roll the dice.... that is if it isn't locked up well then again it is a l20b so even if it is it's still fixable...
  22. It definately wont hold pressure... The benefit is the fan won't be blowing a small leak all over... and it won't be hot trying to find it.... free rental so why not....
  23. Find the leak first... could be just a pin hole on a seam or something.... Those pressure testers work pretty good... should expose the location of the leak.. If you haven't had any overheating issues than it may not even need a recore.... If it's leaking from the core than you will need to make a decision .... And ya it was me who voted "eat a dick" Shouldn't have gave me a 3rd option...
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