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Crashtd420

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Everything posted by Crashtd420

  1. That's all 521 on the table. Plus some extra crap wires ... its My stock harness from the truck.. the engine bay wiring is what you see.. pile on left is the rear harness and under that in a bag is the dash wiring.... stripping it down cleaning things up and running it my way....
  2. My present to my family... infecting everyone I can with datsun..
  3. A lot easier to work on this inside... my good wife allowed me to use the dinning room table after christmas lunch was done. Cleaning up the harness....
  4. Got that right. What year is your 510? What Motor? Is it a 2 door?
  5. Leominster ma.... about an hour away from somerville.. mine will hopefully be on the road this summer a bit more work to do here....
  6. Thats what i figured the theory was... with the weight of these trucks would you even see much of a drop? Doesn't seem like you would gain much by doing that... one benefit i guess would gaining a little more ground clearance to the bottom of the plate that attaches the u bolts and shocks. Just curious.
  7. So maybe i missed something. So regardless of ride quality and axel wrap issues how does removing one or 2 leafs actually lower the truck? Doesn't the axel and block sit on top of the leaf that bolts to the frame?
  8. Thanks flatcat I'll keep in mind if my headers fall apart.... mines already coated and installed so I'll see how that works out first....
  9. That would nice if your that talented... but that's definitely outside my skill set.
  10. Sadly I do not hAve the stock exhaust manifold any more, I actually did the headers more for looks, but I do have a bunch of mods to my engine, bored over,higher compression, different head with bigger valves and intake runners and a side draft so I may see a few benefits... And I actually used the manifold paint from Por 15. Even sprayed inside . See what happens I guess. Thanks.
  11. Yah been bored doing some reading today. Your right Seems like it kills the headers quicker. Might keep engine bay temp down but the headers suffer. Seems like coatings are a better solution. Gonna work on shielding the other components from the heat instead... Heath shield under the carb and intake and some heat shields on the fuel and brake lines under the hood...
  12. Has anyone used exhaust wrap on there headers? Are there any problems using it?
  13. Yah I've been saving some things like that lately I understand why everyone hoards there extra parts now..
  14. I get what your saying now. The new radiator I got is about 1/2" thicker in the core area and the side bracket is completely square... this is a pic of the oem radiator the side backet has a taper to it. Interesting observation. Good thing to watch or plan for.
  15. Ok... ya no worries of that for me since I am redoing all the wiring in the entire engine bay..
  16. Why the spacers? Just rubber grommets and new nuts and bolts here . There were just holes where my radiator mounts. I got a 3 row radiator for a manual transmission. A bit thicker than stock. Tight fit on the fans. My plan is to rewire everything as hidden as I can. I have some stuff to heat shield the fuel line and some wiring if needed..
  17. I just liked this pic seeing the radiator
  18. Complete parts closer.. Radiator, hoses, fans and alternator
  19. Just had my mind blown today checking this thread out.... unbelievable work... great job. Amazing fab skills... glad you were able to keep it.. I saw the one post you almost sold it...
  20. I could be completely off here but He never really said the clutch wasnt disengaging?? so does it shift freely while driving or do you feel it drag? Here's a question? If the grinding only happen when the clutch pedal is depressed maybe just the throw out bearing itself is worn. Couldnt you put the truck in gear and push in the clutch and see if will it roll? Wouldn't you feel the clutch drag if it wasn't fully disengaging? Just a thought. I've had my clutch completly slipping and it still sounded good but my clutch release bearing would make a nasty grinding sound..
  21. Ya im never sure of my mechanical ability either. I do pretty good. Even my motor build I got way outside my conform zone but I learn by taking things a part. Alot of notes and pics and measurements.. but that's gonna have to wait for now the info is great... I actually had the 5spd on ebay.. just canceled that. Now I'll just keep my eyes out for the correct bell housing and I'll have a good project upgrade once the trucks on the road. Right know I got a good working 4spd gets me on the road.... thanks to all
  22. Nothing much to speak of... working on some of final pieces to fire the motor. Radiator and alternator are going in... working on power and the fuel next.. Got a little slowed down. We got hit with snow this weekend. Got all the way down to 1 degree the other morning. In my garage it was about 30 takes a bit longer to get the temp up from there to work.... hopefully some more pics soon and if I am luck I will have video of the motor firing in about 2 or 3 weeks....
  23. Thanks again I guess I got some searching to do ...
  24. Thanks for the extra info.... it's definitely 26".. didnt even think this was possible, but it definitely make sense about swapping to an l series 71b front case, and your sure even the 4spd would work?... I really don't know how the internals are different between the 4 and 5 speed.. and can the bell housing come from possibly a longer 71b?
  25. Ya that's not a bad idea... I will have to look into that and see what I can find... worse case if I get bored I can try the cut and weld process... I know anything can be done with the right bit of skill but a housing swap is more my ability. .. thanks...
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