Jump to content

Crashtd420

Senior Member
  • Content Count

    3,681
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

Everything posted by Crashtd420

  1. Did you buy a bypass style, designed for a fuel return system? Dont know if thst matters or not... This was the info I was supplied with my regulator....
  2. Ah different designs.... inline 5/16 inlet/outlet 4psi 30gph vs rotary vane 3/8 inlet/outlet 4-7 psi 72gph.... seems like either with work.....
  3. Is that a new pump, and I mean more is it a new design? Looking it up now just because....
  4. Stock would be ok if he didnt convert to an electric... Carter says you don't need a regulator but clearly we do.... I've seen a few say the Holley is a good one to use, and seems to be the choice for a few people And reviews seem good... plus they go for around $30.. You will need fittings... it has a 3/8 npt input and two 3/8 npt outputs... Just need an adapter to you fuel hose diameter.. you can feed both carbs separately from the regulator or use a single output and you'll need a 3/8 npt plug for the other output...
  5. Hopefully it Is the p4070?.... i just put one on my 521 with a single 40dcoe. Great volume but pressure was around 6, 6 1/2 psi.... I needed a Holley 12-804 1-4psi regulator to bring it down to a recommended 2.5 to 3 psi.. I just looked up solex carbs and first read said you need around 1.5 to 2 psi... So you might look into a simple gauge and that Holley regulator...
  6. You did have the distributor spindle shaft and oil pump installed When you spun the motor over right... the spindle shaft is what will bind if there's a miss alignment.. goodluck.. and don't force it
  7. Just to clarify this problem... This error he is seeing is at the bottom of the block.... oil pan side....
  8. I can confirm that.... missing dowel caused missalignment of spindle shaft and bound the crank.... There is no wiggle room putting the cover on... it was a snug fit for me too... if the dowels are there and it's good to the head I'd say it sounds like it was done right... Put the distributor spindle in and if it goes in smooth and you can rotate the crank without binding I'd think you'd be ok .... I think the manual even says to apply a little rtv sealant on the joint to... And with the cork gaskets i think it will take up that error... but that's only my opinion others have assembled way more datsun engines than me, I'm sure they will post soon too...
  9. So far so good.... got bushings installed Need to smooth the inside flush,.. Now the other half......
  10. So i ran out of paint stripper, so I decided to play with the door hinges today. Started with the upper driverside, decided to use these, gave me an extra bushing set to correct the oblong hole on the bottom of the hinge
  11. Crashtd420

    A ratty ratsun

    Oh shit you weren't kidding....
  12. I had ones that were loose in the retainer, It could actually rock side to side slightly.... If everything else looked good I'd try replacing that lash pad and continue from there...
  13. Crashtd420

    A ratty ratsun

    Funny thats the one that was junk for me too.... I think the windshield corner was leaking.... I couldn't believe when i took my windshield out all the metal was perfect.... keep up the good work. .
  14. Crashtd420

    A ratty ratsun

    Looks good from here... did you have to fix the body mount?
  15. Well i would call that fairly obvious... I don't think you can adjust that out.... even if you realign and reset... The ticking has to be related to that.... have you taken the valve cover off and see if it moved again?.... I'd think that lash pad should be replaced... you can also see if it's loose in the reatainer.... How did the rest look?... someone might be able to help with a spare lash pad... I know I have some extra I'll never use.. Pull it out and see what size it is...
  16. Crashtd420

    Cam upgrade

    .......... Not to keep mentioning Schneider but I know they do harden the cams... As far as the rockers, and to who ever wants to do a cam.. Its your engine do what you feel comfortable, replace what's needed, reconditioning what you can....
  17. Crashtd420

    Cam upgrade

    It's really not that complicated, but you definitely can't just stick a new cam in and run. At minimum you'll need the correct lash pads for the grind you choose and reconditioned or new rockers.. I did springs and retainers because why not at that point.
  18. Take a good look while your in there, Ive read and seen slight damage to the retainers and lash pads causing the lash pad to be a bit loose too... it should be fairly obvious if something is bad, but hopefully it's just an adjustment needed...
  19. Crashtd420

    A ratty ratsun

    Those floor pans would be gold if someone stamped them our for the 521's... my passenger floor and body mount was the only part of my truck that was rusted out.... salvaged my driverside...
  20. http://dimequarterly.blogspot.com/2012/02/tech-how-to-l-series-cylinder-head.html?m=1 Check this link out, it has all the L series heads and shows the differences. I have a w53 head on an l16 and love it. But I'd check your compression ratio out with what ever your planning on using just to be safe...
  21. Such good stuff... I feel like we could post for days on vintage race ideas.... Trying to control myself....
  22. Damn it flatcat, you got me... I get it now.....
  23. Definitely possible, sounds like you have the right guy to help you out. My only advise would be talk to him about your total engine build before buying things.. i made a couple mistakes which in the end where to my benefit for power but took a bit of time to clearance everything to make things fit....
  24. What about BRE?... not sure what era they were...
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.