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Crashtd420

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Everything posted by Crashtd420

  1. I'm Really not sure..... but for now I figure I'd rather have the pressure up feeding what the factory intended and sacrifice (for lack of a better word) the spray bar.... The Cam still gets oil, so as long as I dont ruin anything I'll work my way through this.
  2. That's kind of what I dont know..... It came with the valve cover years ago.... only since the rebuild have i tried to make it functional.....
  3. Well the idle pressure seemed to settle around 20 once warm and with the spray bar connected... same readings with the manual gauge..... and I still show 70 psi while running so that's good.... So I plugged the output to the spray bar and I instantly gained 25 psi to put the idle pressure at 45..... So my question is should I worry about that? Should I, or could I add a restrictor to the spray bar some how?
  4. That's about what I'm expecting once hot and I dont think 35 is high for idle.. my Chevy idles at 40 and goes up to 60 while driving.... I'm just glad to have something that seems closer to accurate... it kept driving me crazy seeing it go to zero at a stop light even though I knew i had good pressure. .... Hopefully tomorrow I can take it out for a ride....
  5. Happy to say a new oil pressure sending unit seems to have been a good idea... I still want to let It warm up completely to see what the idle pressure is but so far the new sender is reading higher.... I had around 50-60 on startup and saw as high as 70 with some rpm... Even before the highest i ever saw was 50... so I think i will be good... I also gave my o2 sensor a recalibration, it was acting a little wierd the other day.. crusing on the highway no change in throttle or anything the gauge would flicker lean for a fraction of a second and then back... they say you should after 3 months and it's been alot longer then that.... even the first recalibration didnt take properly so I did it again and it stabilized itself..... Hopefully that's all good.... And 3 more days till functional air conditioning.... crossing fingers I dont have any leaks.....
  6. The older 63 series 4 spds aren't rare.... They might be getting rare or hard to find because everyone throws them away..... Are you trying to find one?
  7. Crashtd420

    Hot LZ23

    I guess you live up to you name....
  8. Crashtd420

    Hot LZ23

    Forgive my ignorance but what are the crank pins?
  9. You need a hosting sight like postimage or Flickr or something like those. ... but not photobucket.... I found postimage to be the easiest from my phone.....
  10. You will get the most out of the cam that way..... and yes stay patient.... Like I said check the internet.... I printed one and mounted it on some cardboard.... used a piece of wire as a pointer.... Do you have a cam card? Basically the info about the cam... you'll want that info.... Do this before you put the front timing cover on.... just incase you do want to move it to the #2 .....
  11. I think it does matter.... If each hole is 4 degrees and the l20b gets setup on the #2 dowel then technically the cam will be 4 degrees advanced/or retarded..... I would still take the time and check with a degree wheel or something..... The cam should have specs to check.... I printed a degree wheel off the internet and was able to check very easily..... You'll need an indicator though ....
  12. You seem to be correct so far.... If I remember right the l20b usually gets set up on the #2... Personally if you have a mild cam going in it would be best to degree the cam too.... I think there are 2 methods.... Degree wheel... And I think the second is called a split overlap method or something like that..... I'm sure I will be corrected soon enough if I'm wrong.....
  13. I connected to a fitting under the thermostat instead of the intake then ran that over to the water pump.... If you dont do that you'll have to plug the fitting at the water pump..... Personally I wouldnt just rely on the jiggle valve to let enough coolant through....
  14. Oh and the spring should be fine....
  15. Oh even better.. yes remove that cap ( not really a bolt) There is a spring and a small piston thing inside ... use some wd40 or pb blast and let it soak in.... then just work the shift left and right and get it to move around..... I'm not sure if you can actually get the little piston out or not.... fyi I have no idea what any of those parts are actually called....
  16. Its located behind this ....
  17. I had that issue..... there is a bolt with a spring behind it..... Honest change the fluid and drive it, work the shifter back and forth and it should loosen up..... getting that bolt out while installed in the vehicle is kind of hard....
  18. Well I was thinking about the oil sender and figured they are cheap enough, I could just try a new one.... upon looking for a replacement I realized that the 2 wires going to the back were not as I thought.... 1 wire is the pressure reading while the 2nd wire which i thought was a ground supply was infact a low pressure signal to the light on the gauge..... oops.... When I got home I was hoping to find the sensor not properly grounded but it was..... so that's not an issue.... I think I will buy a new sender and see what happens.....
  19. Yes I think I should have left the "P" out of my comment....
  20. Yes earlier ones have the j motor.... I think they got the l16 in the 70 model.... The pl prefix i believe stands for left hand drive..... I would assume there would be some differences to the way the plate was printed....
  21. Depends on which situation you mean.... I understand pressure is pressure regardless where I check it..... The bad readings on the gauge I'm sure is just a poor quality sender.... I have already developed a tiny leak where all the stuff I'd connected so im trying to simplify things and make the fitting location more rigid.... I thought about a remote block for the sending units but then i thought relocating the oil filter would be a little better..... This will also allow me to get back to running a larger filter too.. currently I run a shorter one due to my engine mounts....
  22. Oh and I'm not gonna bother with the cooler... your right not really needed....
  23. To eliminate all that stuff hanging off the oil sender hole on the block..... This way the block sender will feed the oil spray bar and the relocation part has 2- 1/8 npt holes for the pressure gauge and the dash light switch.....
  24. Crashtd420

    My 1971 521

    Lash pads should be just sitting in there... a magnet should work .... How does the cam look? Also check the wipe pattern on the lash pad and on the rocker tip ... that will tell you if it was setup correctly.....
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