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Crashtd420

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Posts posted by Crashtd420


  1. 5 hours ago, thisismatt said:

    If all else is well, just put studs on the ones you can't put bolts into, then you can thread nuts on as you install the bracket with the compressor already attached.

    Good idea.... 

    • Like 1

  2. 5 hours ago, Charlie69 said:

    2 bolts is not enough the bracket will eventually break.  Getting there though.  1980 720 L20B had an AC mounted under the air pump on the drivers side of the enginr.

    I wont be leaving just 2 bolts..... I might end up welding a piece to the bottom of the bracket so I can catch the bottom 2 holes on the block also.... then I'll have about 5 bolts holding it on..... I still think the front middle bolt will be impossible with the compressor in the way.... 

    • Like 1

  3. If I attach the bracket to the compressor i can get the back 2 bolt in on the block..

     

    Plenty of room to adjust the belt....

     

    20190714-172533.jpg

     

    When I'm just about out of adjustment it will hit the steering box but I have plenty of room before that happens..

     

    20190714-172642.jpg

     

    20190714-172707.jpg

     

    • Like 2

  4. Made some progress in the ac system....

    Had to modify the bracket alot.....

     

    20190714-143653.jpg

     

    I still want to slot the new holes for some adjustment..... 

     

    And I'd like to get the bracket up just a little closer under the distributor.....

     

    20190714-144049.jpg

     

    Problem I'm having now is I can't get the compressor on with the bracket installed..... it hits the steering box... 


  5. That oil tube is probably for a pressure gauge mounted some where..... unless you happen to have a spray bar inside the valve cover..... 

     

    I was gonna suggest this piece of jewelry for the timing chain till I saw the price... .

     

    Screenshot_20190713-143944_Chrome.jpg

    Says it was $799....... no thanks...


  6. 8 hours ago, Ricardin_620 said:

    Sounds great this is really useful information. What about lifters, pivot arms and rest of other components, would they be interchangeable with other W58 or U67 parts? 

    I actually have the same combo, but with higher compression pistons.... I think you can actually get most of that stuff right from nissan still.....

     

     

     


  7. Ya that shop had no idea what they were selling..... sounds like they didnt care either, just wanted it gone......

     

    In the back of my head I'm wondering why the 510 guy didnt want it.....

    I know he upgraded but why!!!

     

    • Like 1

  8. Unfortunately it did not fit the block....

    Good news is I took some measurements and I think it will still work... I need to cut the top triangle off first and try again..... 

    The middle and bottom hole of the bracket do line up to the upper and lower bolt holes on the block where the smog pump would go.... 

    And it would place the v belt of the compressor in the correct location.... 

     

    I'll probably do a better write up after I get things done so it's easier to follow ... 

     

     

    • Like 2

  9. Just now, d.p said:

    Yeah reading the internet lots of people said they use the HF stand so I will just try that.  Its $50 so no big deal if it doesn't work. 

    That one looked a bit smaller than the one I used so I think you'll be ok.... 


  10. 46 minutes ago, d.p said:

     I am going to buy a stand from HF but Crash said something about maybe having an issue mounting an L to an engine stand?  Something about the bolts not being long enough? 

     

    https://www.harborfreight.com/750-lb-capacity-engine-stand-69887.html

     Wasnt the bolt length it was the spacing of the 4 arms that wouldnt fit.... couldn't get them close enough for the top 2 bolts....


  11. 6 hours ago, slowlearner said:

    Digging up a Zombie thread...

     

    cartoon-zombies-1.jpeg?w=205&h=300

     

    I think I have, wait for it, TWO heater cores with seized valves. Would this suffice? It's cheap and cheerful here down under...

     

    https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Heater-Control-Valve-C3UZ18495A-YG133-For-FORD-E-F-SERIES-BRONCO-DODGE-VAN-FK/323725787758?epid=23024241000&hash=item4b5f8f826e:g:y3AAAOSwBUtcgQF5

    I used one like that on my 521.... my heater core has a penny where the valve should be.... 

    It will work, my problem now is I broke the cable I used to actuate it, so get a good cable.... 

    I used a choke cable but the crimp near the knob let go, so I can open it but not close it....

    • Like 1

  12. 4 minutes ago, d.p said:

    Anyone know a trick to getting the rubber bump stops into the bumperettes? Seems near impossible with how wide they are. 

    Just get some lube on them, twist and turn them and work them in.... things like that are a pain in the ass.... the ones that go in the fenders for the hood are just as bad.... 

    • Like 1

  13. 1 hour ago, d.p said:

    Well fuck me sideways, will check it and see if that is my problem.  Greaser you drill the rivet out I assume? 

    In order to do new vent window seals you have to.... the lower post goes through the rubber..... so to do it properly the window has to be removed from the frame, which means the rivet need to be removed...

    • Like 1

  14. 3 minutes ago, d.p said:

    My passenger vent window stays open when turned all the way but my drivers side doesn't.  Guess the rubber seal on the drivers side is chewed up enough so that it won't keep it in place.  

    Also Inside the door the post that the window pivots on has a spring and a nut.... I'm sure they have to both be good to function right.... 

    • Like 1
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