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Crashtd420

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Everything posted by Crashtd420

  1. So I was able to tighten up the hose clamps inside the cab at the heater core.... I guess I'll see how that does tomorrow...
  2. On to the next issue, now my heater core has a small leak, I saw some coolant pool up in bottom of the heater box..... From what I can tell it's the right side, i dont think its the core itself because of where its wet, if I'm lucky its the hose connection...
  3. No I'm gonna trigger it off the power to the fans from the interior dash unit..... that way if ac is on solenoid is always active.... I dont want it cycling with the compressor... that would get annoying....
  4. Ok so it will work as intended... If throttle is closed the solenoid stays closed but it will jump out and stay out the minute the throttle is touched..... but what did happen was it stayed out when I just removed the ground because it was grounding through the center pin.... Which doesnt really matter because I'll be activating it with 12volts....
  5. Thats why I only spend 25 on the solenoid.... just incase..... there might be a better way but after a lot of searching I keep coming up with the same results and this seems to be where people end up.... It should work, it's doing what its designed to do.... I'm pretty confident (for now)
  6. I haven't tested it that way yet.... eventually you have to touch the throttle, I am assuming it would kick out once you do.. ..... I'll try it later.... I'll energize it closed, then see if it extends when I move the throttle... it should extend and stay extended ...
  7. Well Solenoid showed up and as expected not strong enough to open the throttle on it's own but once its extended it stays out ..... It has more than enough strength at that point, once active I was able to push on the throttle to wot without the solenoid returning.... So yes I will have blip the throttle once when activating the ac, but the idle will stay up till I shut it off so I dont thing that will be do bad to deal with..... Next step deciding which place to mount it....
  8. The only time I dump the clutch Is to do a burn out..... Clutch dumping, water injection or any other trick to stop dieseling is not a fix... its just poor tuning.... I could be wrong, but I feel the reason Nissan couldnt stop it is due to the fact that these vehicles get sold everywhere.... how do you produce one setup to work under all conditions, height about sea level, temperature, etc.... what works for me here might not work in so cal or up in Oregon..
  9. Ah I see.... I dont really run rich from what my air/fuel gauge tells me, plugs are always clean and the right color.... If I have the idle set properly it doesnt diesel... Shouldn't it keep its self clean like the spark plugs if tuned properly? Or will it happen regardless being carburated? I suppose it cant hurt to decarbon the engine either way.. are you talking about misting water from a spray bottle down the carburator while running?
  10. Never really thought about that? Why do you ask? It only has 4300 miles since rebuild....
  11. It will be ok..... Regardless I had to order a solenoid to see how things react to my setup before I even think about trying to do a mod like your talking... I'd rather keep this as simple as possible.... So the one I decided on goes for around $50 or $60 without the bracket, and i managed to find a new one on ebay discounted to $25, so I bought that....
  12. However you word it your still trying to eliminate the effects of the springs on the solenoid, I'm still not going to do it...
  13. Also after all the discussion about the ac idle I figured out a couple things..... First no body seems to make a solenoid that can actually increase the idle without a touch of the throttle, unless as thisismatt and stroffgren were talking I could lessen the spring tension, but I'm not going through all that.... 2nd was the solenoid cycling with the compressor... Last, Locations I got options... So end decisions is buy a better quality solenoid, to give me the best chance for success and I'm ok with having to tap the throttle once when I turn the ac on to set the idle.... I think I can get it cheaper, that listing includes brackets I dont need.... I figured out If I wire it to the dash unit fans the solenoid will be activated when ever I turn the ac on, so no cycling with the compressor... the wires are accessible behind the unit..
  14. Well I don't like it when it diesels so I'll spend the time making sure it doesnt.... So far I have been successful.. Speaking about tuning I just installed F7 emulsion tube, with 130 mains and 180 air correctors ( 175s got stuck in other tube) and what difference that made to the transition circuit.... even from I lower rpm I can dump the throttle now and It just goes with no hesitation.. no more easing into it needed... Its amazing the difference from baseline running to being tuned properly.... after I drive it a bit I'll probably make a couple slight adjustments with the new tubes, plus I still need to see how it does on the highway, but around town was a blast and air fuel numbers looked good.....
  15. I'll look into it more but I still dont think my set is capable of doing that....
  16. I get what you were saying before about the vacuum switch idea but I dont really like the idea of a vacuum leak per say.... As far as the solenoid I just need to try one and see what works or doesnt work.... just trying not to waste money....
  17. And mainer311 I though about a pull cable but was worried about the cables slacking and getting caught or something since both would have to be attached to the throttle....
  18. I did that and it wants to diesel on me...
  19. I could always put the solenoid on it's own on/off switch so it doesnt cycle with the compressor.... And matt I now understand what you were suggesting earlier but I dont think the linkage would do what your thinking.... that arm you were talking about is to adjust the cable to achieve wot .... I think I just need to buy a solenoid, hope for the best and try it.. I still have till next week to decide what to buy.... play money all spent, waiting for next paycheck...
  20. I see your point about the fire wall but I feel it's the strongest location to support the solenoid... I do have the room and it would be easily removable if necessary..... With stroffgrens idea about a welded nut on a riveted on plate opens up the possibility of what solenoids I can use.. But wayno I also like your idea about the air cleaner bolts, they are through holes so longer screws and nuts on the backside is possible.... But I'm not sure which lock nuts you are referring too.. I would probably do it on the back side of the carburetor.... there is a lever back there also and 2 empty locations for the idle screw and something else.... not strong enough to hold the whole unit but should be ok to stabilize a bracket mounted to the air cleaner bolts.... Looks like I'll get one that could suit both ideas and see what will work best...
  21. I understand what your saying but the springs you see on the carb are the only ones I have on my throttle setup.... one of the reasons I bought that throttle setup was because my pedal doesnt have it's own return spring in the cab..... that one was broken and lost years ago, even before I got the truck.... So I dont believe there would be any difference in effort that the solenoid would see if I did it at the pedal or at the carburetor it would still be pushing against the same number of springs.. I have read about others with the issue I believe you think would occur. Which is it's not strong enough to increase the idle... most say you have to hit the throttle once when the solenoid is activated then it would stay out....
  22. Thats something to keep in mind... That would also allow me to move it out further into the engine bay if needed.... I could put the locking nut in the engine bay vs inside the cab.....
  23. Hopefully this idea comes together like I'm imagining.. I tried to think about where I have to mount one, vs not mounting to a weak point all while worrying about cable slack etc..... This seems to be the most direct solution as it will just kick the pedal enough to raise the idle.... I'm eyeing a solenoid from a Toyota, it has a long threaded portion that I should be able to use 2 nuts (1 inside, 1 outside) against the firewall to adjust and secure it....
  24. That was the hope, to have as little of the solenoid as possible poke through the firewall to the inside... I pretty sure I have the room, next step is to see exactly where it would need to go and if anything is in fact in the way... also I'm not sure how much throw those solenoids have so I need to figure that out too.... I have a couple mounting and adjustment ideas in my head just need to pick a solenoid and see what I need to do....
  25. Right now I've mashed everyone's suggestions together and hopefully have come up with a good way to add the idle up solenoid.... I know the pedal was talked about and upon looking it think that's my best option..... on the pedal there is a little square pad.... I'm not even sure what it is supposed to be for... If I can drill a hole in the firewall just behind that square to mount the solenoid then that would keep the throttle open a little extra increasing the idle..... I'm able to adjust my cable free play and wot with the linkage I have so I just need to order a solenoid now....
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