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Crashtd420

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Everything posted by Crashtd420

  1. Matt and Daniel I'll send you a PM in a minute..... These 2 will be my test.... if I can send them some orings in a regular letter with just a stamp I'll do the same for anyone else who reads my thread and needs these orings.... Please PM me if you need them.... Datzenmike I hope this is ok as I am not trying to sell these... I am just trying to thank the ratsun members for the help and parts I have received and pay it forward a bit....
  2. I figured out something, while the square orings didnt work in the valve, they work nice on the radiator drain..... This was from an oem 521 radiator, it's a little loose around the threads but will definitely stay in place and do the job... It was tight on my aluminum radiator drain, i just have to be careful installing it so the square stays square but it fit good and will do the job.... As for the round orings.... I think I have enough..... They seemed to be about .010 thicker than what I had and are a bit stiffer.... They do work, nice fit on the valve and in the heater core.... I was able to still turn the valve with no issue.....
  3. Sucks about the door seals.... Where have you been getting them? Are they a 2 part seal? I bought mine a few years back, at first I only got what they call a welt seal.... apparently that holds the main seal in place... I later bought the seal to go with it..... these were off ebay.... I've been putting off dealing with mine for 2 years now..... its next up after I finish what I got going on now.... Not looking forward to it....
  4. The square o rings came in.... Unfortunately I dont think they will work... they dont seem to be able compress as much as I hoped when I try to install it in the heater core.... gets way too tight, almost gets stuck..... Both are dash 111 orings.... The square fitted to the valve. And a regular oring fitted.... Safe to assume datsun just used a standard oring.... I have the chemical resistant round orings on the way too.. should be in this weekend....
  5. Crashtd420

    EBay radiator

    Not in a 620 or an sr20 but in my 521 I have one of the 3 row ebay aluminum ones, Motor is a high compression (10.7-1) L16 for comparison....... I've had it for 3 years now with no issue... it keeps up in the summer with no issue... as it got towards winter on a 40 degree day it would almost cool the motor off too much.... I only know this because I have an indicator light that tells me if the fans are on or not.... The one thing about the summit radiator is it's for an automatic... It has the transmission cooler fittings.... I'm not sure if that matters or not... I have no idea where the lines go inside the radiator....
  6. My brother would appreciate that reference.... hes an audio guy has a tattoo of the guitar knob set to 11... I know it but cant remember what its from....
  7. Bought a set of these tonight to hopefully to use as a heater knob.... They are guitar knobs with a 6mm center bore... same as the heater valve.... The idea is to remove the small counter bore at the bottom and see if I can get the screw holes to line up....
  8. Crashtd420

    Radiator

    Check the inlet and outlet diameter too... I know it matter to me with my 521... some had a J motor while mine the L series.... not sure if the same might apply to the 510 but sellers tend to group things and just say fits a 510....
  9. Just throwing this out there for the heater knob.... the post measured up as .236 which is 6mm.... Just so happens so are guitar knobs.... I'm poking around on Ebay and finding many different ones that would work.... Probably all would need a small mod to align the retention screw....
  10. I'll get in touch with you when they arrive...
  11. Well regardless I order some better o'rings... chemical resistant and what not, Something called viton.... hopefully that was the right choice..... I bought a 50pack for $4 because the price was stupid cheap... these were the dash 111 viton regular round.... I also bought a pack of the square style viton to try, why not... only $10 for a 25pk.... And wayno that's a good idea.... about having to only remove the valve if the o ring starts to fail..... Like I said before if these work well I'll report back and I'd be happy to share with any other 520/521 owners who need the oring..... if I'm lucky I can just tape them to a piece of paper and send them in the mail in a basic stamped envelope...
  12. I think I'm over thinking things again.... I just dont want to deal with a leaky valve. . I'm sick of dealing with coolant.... There is a huge cost difference but if it's worth it I would do it... The rounds and the squares were around 10 for a 25 pack... the better quality..( I saw a 50 pack round for $4 same vendor on Amazon it was odd).. or the x profile would be closer to $25-30 ... for a 25 pack....
  13. I was just thinking that exact thought....
  14. I guess my biggest concern is turning the valve in general once installed.... That's what I thought the difference between a standard oring and the square would be.... what I removed from the valve seemed to be a square profile.. Would the x profile still be better in that sense?
  15. They do have an x seal in the 111 size.... These are the sizes.... Just realized the is no indicator to what the numbers are... For reference on the 111 .424 is the id/ .630 is the od the 112 would be loose, and the 110 tight.... I do think the 111 size is the right one..... The x seals do seam even a little better then the square, and much better than a standard o ring....
  16. I have the valve out right now measuring it... and I'm leaning towards trying a dash 111 square o ring... this is from the mcmaster's catalog.... I actually just checked and this is the same size I chose from my o ring kit.... so I might be on the right track here.... The groove on the valve body measured .460 and about .125(1/4) wide... the valve body itself is .625(5/8)... I'll share the extras if they work... looks like I might have to order either 10 or 25 depending on the supplier....
  17. Are you talking the fan motor? I am hoping to remove the bird cage from the one I messed up and move it over to my good motor .... if I feel like I'm going to break it I'll probably grind back some of the plastic on the motor to expose just enough of the terminal and solder on some wires..... As far as the heater core it was stuck in the off position, so I had to mess with it to restore flow.... I'm still trying to see what's out there for orings.... I am not real confident with using the current oring.. I think the original was square...... I've been trying to find some write ups but haven't found anything good on the oring..... One said it leaked, and one said use 2 thinner ones , but I think the way the square style seals it better for the job....
  18. Is there a specific oring I should be using before I put this back in the truck? I have just a box of orings.... I used the best fitting one but I question if it will last or degrade because of the coolant...
  19. Well this was almost too easy..... Removed the tiny screw that stops the valve from turning, a few taps from the inside with a long rod and out it came... Cleaned it up and put a new oring on, so far so good.. right now the heater core is full to see if it will leak... going to try to figure out a was to preassure test it next... Not such good luck with the fan.... Tried to remove the connection on the back and broke them off.... I did manage to get the nut off without breaking the cage... and I got my old one off the motor without breaking it more so hopefully I can remove the good one without breaking it....
  20. I'm playing with all possibilities.... I like that it looks cleaner but it's real tight... right now the only place I can put the pcv is just off the block vent as it reduces to the 5/8 line.... but that makes getting from under the intake to the pcv a pain.....
  21. Should be good for now... you already gave me move than I expected.... Even just having the spare box outside of the vehicle is helpfull.. If I have any ideas I can try it with the spare parts instead of having to tear apart the truck .... Thanks Charlie..
  22. Sounds like another good reason just to run the line across the top.... easier to check and replace if needed....
  23. I have seen a few different write ups about fixing it.... I'm not to worried.... I know to be careful this time.... But I'll definitely look up Mike's video or write up....
  24. Would a rubber lines make a difference... or covering the metal line? I didnt want to run a rubber line down because of the exhaust, I though with the metal line I could keep it closer to the intake..... I could also turn the tee to point towards the head and just connect a rubber line up top.... I might try the line up top to see how it looks.... underneath is proving to be a challenge to get over to the the block vent without making things look wierd....
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