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tdskip

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About tdskip

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  1. tdskip

    410/411 parts availability

    Literally LOL. Thanks for the candor. I am going to pass on this one, just don’t have the appiete to deal with the parts situation. This is the one in CL in Modesto. Have pictures and sellers contact if anyone is interested. Thanks!
  2. tdskip

    410/411 parts availability

    So, not quite sure what to do here. I find these achingly handsome, and expect it would be a "delicate" driving experience (which I am after) Having had to chase parts before I am not really not very eager to go down that path again. I image the succeeding 510-series is a ton easier to source parts on.
  3. tdskip

    Seperated at birth: Alfa Gulia and Bluebird

    Yep - hence the similarity. Didn't know about the 411 being a clean up. Thanks for the info
  4. tdskip

    410/411 parts availability

    Thank you for the responses. I’ll have to ask the seller what the front braking set up is.
  5. tdskip

    410/411 parts availability

    Thanks Mike. Are brake and tune up bits available?
  6. tdskip

    410/411 parts availability

    Looking at a solid but cosmetically tired (sun baked) sedan and wanted to ask for some background on parts availabity etc. I’ve gottten pretty spoiled by how well covered some other classics are, and know this series car may have thinner vendor support, Major mechanicals are supposed to be in good order, but brake lines, trim, upholstery etc are all needing attention. Thanks in advance for the help!
  7. I did the brake cleaner test looking for vacuum leaks and found an area on top of the engine that changed the engine RPM when I sprayed it. Looking at it made me realize it was the idle control valve (ICV). I pulled the ICV off, turns out it was right on top of the engine and couldn't be any easier to access, and it was totally gunked up with soot. Like totally. After some very judicious spraying with carb cleaner to clean it back to clean metal inside and letting it swirl around to clean the solenoid I reinstalled it and made sure I had a good seal. Holy cow the car is transformed. I was able to actually drive it around the block without protest. Even better she pulls cleanly and idles better (not as smoothly as she should, but workable). I didn't really push her too hard but my theory about less weight and a lower CG appear to have been reasonable as she is noticeably lighter on her feet and changes direction more readily, Chalk another one up for the Ratsun forum. Thanks to all of you for the help, encouragement, and patience you have shown me. I am still doing burn outs in the drive way due to the clutch engagement / heaviness issue however.
  8. Hi - if I am doing this right I have about 5 cm from the fulcrum to the master pushrod, and about 26 cm from where the clutch pedal is hung to the middle of the clutch pedal. EDIT - wouldn't one option from here be to leave the bore on master & slave the same but mount the clutch master cylinder up higher so I can use a longer pedal?
  9. Thanks Mike - will measure. Would like to avoid the Chevy truck experience if possible, I keep inadvertently doing burn outs.
  10. Thanks Mike. Less pedal travel will make it worse, and if that bore size and slave combo is what people use then I suppose I should leave that alone. Wonder how I can get more mechanical leverage in there.....
  11. Ah, well that sounds like a likely suspect. Are the IAC valves a take it off and clean it thing, or better to replace? If replacing can I swap out a generic Nissan one from a G20 or similar? EDIT - is it possible to clean it in place? Thanks for the response!
  12. Hi folks - I know I went dark there for a bit but I did not give up on the SR20DE swap into the 1967 Triumph. I got busy with work, life, etc, but I am on the final push now. With some extra phone help from Alleycat - which was very much appreciated - I swapped out my MAF and she runs and will idle now. In fact, I was able to actually bring her on the street for the first of what will likely be many shake down runs. Happy to say the 5 speed is a happy unit, which is a big plus because I wasn't sure of its condition when bought along with the JDM SR20DE. There are three main issues I need to get sorted out that I am hoping to get some help on; 1) She runs and seems happy with good power, her idle will get stuck at around 3000 once warmed up. It does not appear to be a physical throttle body issue, and I did clean it before buttoning everything back up. Once it climbs up there it won't return back to a proper idle RPM and I have to shut it off. Any likely suspects on that? Was thinking vacuum leak but that would only show up once warmed up, would it? 2) My clutch engagement is way too high of an effort and very abrupt. I am using the OEM Triumph 3/4 bore clutch master and a Silvia slave. All are new, and the clutch is a SR20DET unit, also new. My guess is I need a smaller bore Clutch Master, but wanted to see if you guys had any other ideas for me? What do you use in your SR20DE swaps? 3) Are there any local SoCal events where I can meet you guys to buy lunch / drinks to say a proper Thank You? Thanks in advance, and happy motoring!
  13. Wait - that is insane. Machining that down is taking depth off the wrong side. I appears that the SR20DET clutch and flywheel are just thicker than the JDM SR20DE set up. Of course, no one carries the JDM SR20DE clutch and flywheel at an affordable price in the USA that I have found. Ugh.
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